aminga

1986 Buick T Type 2014 Updates - 86 Buick Turbo

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Man...I always said the turbo buick was one of the few cars that I would happily stray for my all Ford lineup to own and the more you Buick guys post up the more I want one.  Comfy automatic cruiser car that can knock off low 7's in the 1/8 on stock motor?!?  I missed it somewhere but what turbo you runnin again?


 


Matt


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Oh! That's a very nice update then!

Very cool there are folks creating stuff like this to keep the old cars going that have lost factory parts support! :yes:

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Man...I always said the turbo buick was one of the few cars that I would happily stray for my all Ford lineup to own and the more you Buick guys post up the more I want one.  Comfy automatic cruiser car that can knock off low 7's in the 1/8 on stock motor?!?  I missed it somewhere but what turbo you runnin again?

 

Matt

 

Stock compressor housing

 

hogged out to take 62mm compressor with PTE ball bearing billet wheels

Edited by aminga
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Mine is a TA6262DBB from precision.  6262 will support around 700HP I believe  Billet wheels and ceramic ball bearings make for a quick spool.  The TA just means it's been set up with a stock compressor housing. which probably limits it some but it sure makes it sneaky


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My 1/4 mile converter works it out 11.13. 


 


Got Video from a friend and from the GoPro.


 


>http://youtu.be/cN0JM5ad4sU


 


>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo5MsZh-LD8&list=UUZQSCHjKyIgpjrFy16j5g6Q

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Yea.  First run I was shooting for high 7's and it went 7.40  Then I tried that.  When I tried for 6's it wen 7.60's because the boost contoller messed up.  So I tried again and went 7.20's.


 


I know one thing now you do not hotlap a trans shop 200r4.  In the last log there were no discernible shift points.


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Was too cold to race saturday so I worked on the car.


 


The EGR started to leak after the 7.07.  New EGR was $$$'s block off plate was $17 so simple math. And it cleans up the valve covers


 


64F6B68F-6BEC-47FC-A6B0-FD9BF4FD1FEA_1.j


 


With it out of the way the vacuum system was simplified so I got rid of the rubber lines and made it all push lock.  I had been using pushlocks on the wastegate solenoid, MAP and wastegate actuator for a while without the EGR I could get rid of the factory metal lines and use push looks to interface with the EVAP and Heater control system too.


 


2B87C071-8158-4739-ACB9-787B272E86DD.jpg

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Congrats on the ET! Knocking on 6's now! :hyper:

I looked at the old lines, where they hard rubber or metal?

I know I've seen that push lock stuff on industrial machinery air-lines before. How reliable will it be on a car that heat cycles a lot?

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Well the PCV is still rubber hose but we will see.  I've had some pushlocks on there for a few years.  The reliability depends on the quality of the fastener.  Cheap ones will give up as happened on the FPR connection luckily I found it before it popped off under boost.  Good ones won't.


 


And the regal came with these metal vacum lines.  I had some weired set up to attache the 1/4 hose to these.


 


F77A1FEF-13B1-4758-B60A-184F22EB7853.jpg

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I know I've seen that push lock stuff on industrial machinery air-lines before. How reliable will it on a car that heat cycles a lot?

 

Like Alan said, it depends on the quality, but imo it's all better than rubber vacuum line for boosted cars.  You can also pick from multiple materials for the line depending on whether you want chemical resistance, heat tolerant etc.  I use it for everything on mine as well.  I use Legris brand fittings and random line that I buy from McMaster Carr.

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Well I got close to the 6's this year. Car went 7.01 last night on a 1.50 60ft.

First pass of the night we had some electrical weirdness with logs showing at times the SES was on (no codes) and some dropouts on the RPM signal.

Then we had a long cooldown waiting out an oildown. Dude ripped a tranny right out of a camaro then drove 3/4 the length for the track.

Then it went 7.01.

I think over the winter I need to have lonnie build a trans because this one isn't liking the extra boost at all. And break down and buy a Heavy Duty Wastegate actuator. this one doesn't want to go over 25PSI.

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Well I got close to the 6's this year. Car went 7.01 last night on a 1.50 60ft.

First pass of the night we had some electrical weirdness with logs showing at times the SES was on (no codes) and some dropouts on the RPM signal.

Then we had a long cooldown waiting out an oildown. Dude ripped a tranny right out of a camaro then drove 3/4 the length for the track.

Then it went 7.01.

I think over the winter I need to have lonnie build a trans because this one isn't liking the extra boost at all. And break down and buy a Heavy Duty Wastegate actuator. this one doesn't want to go over 25PSI.

Nice run!

Man... 7.01... :up:

If just a little less wheel spin, or whatever would shave - 0.02 you be holding a 6sec slip! That so close! :3gears:

I think if the track was still open, I'd have to try once more! :yes:

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I've been sitting here trying fo figure it out.  And like an engineer I do this with a spreadsheet.


 


Previously (at a different track) it went 7.075 on a 1.57 60ft.  Improving the to 1.50 should have put it over the top.  Looks like it slowed down 0.013 after the 60. And I can't seem to make over 25PSI even though I'm commanding more with the controller.  I guess I've pushed the stock wastegate actuator as far as I can.


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Like Alan said, it depends on the quality, but imo it's all better than rubber vacuum line for boosted cars.  You can also pick from multiple materials for the line depending on whether you want chemical resistance, heat tolerant etc.  I use it for everything on mine as well.  I use Legris brand fittings and random line that I buy from McMaster Carr.

 

Mike Are these the ones you use.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7880t145/=ujtjd3

 

I ask because Saturday at the track I did a pull test on one of my lines that's been on a couple of years and it pulled out.  I used ones from Fastenal but it may be time to upgrade?

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