66sprint6

NewER DD 2015 Mustang GT

430 posts in this topic

2015 Mustang GT Dyno.jpg2015 Dyno.jpg

Well...after the dyno day, it appears that I need to keep polishing on the ole driver mod!  Lower times are there, just gotta coax em out.  I got some Sticky Mickies on the way and Im going ahead and expecting new clutch and/or half-shafts may take priority here soon.  Was going to go ahead and finish out the major bolt-on mods with some catted Longtubes but it looks like Ill go with these tires for a bit and see what might need replacing along the way.  That and the 66 had a hell of a dyno day as well and needs a couple things to be that much closer to REALLY really good.

Matt

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Not a chance, spinnin aint winnin and I do a fair bit more of it than you Mr. 1.7's on Conti's!!!  :lol:  You need to step up to some tires anyways so heres your motivation.

Matt

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Still feelin a tad under the weather this weekend but I got some BMR lowering springs on the GT and took it to have the rear tires replaced.  These are a handling spring made to compliment the Performance Pack struts and they ride sooooooooo nice.  Not a massive drop but just enough to look right, ride right and it handles as well as it always did so Im BEYOND happy.  Excuse the crappy half-assed wash, I didnt have enough in the tank to give it a good detail.

Lowered.jpg

Gonna put some miles on em to settle them and then take it in for a 4 wheel alignment (I also added some rear cradle alignment pieces from Steeda while I had the IRS cradle dropped.

Disney got the ET Street R's mounted up for me so tomorrow I might bolt them up and go scuff em up a bit before Tues night.  See if I can walk the fine line between decent 60's and a long walk home!

Matt

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Half a Drag Pack?

MT ET Street R 2.jpg

MT ET Street R 1.jpg

Alignment is off due to the lowering and rear IRS cradle alignment inserts which compounds the "sway" these Bias Ply's have when mixed with wide radials up front.  I got used to it quick and it ran staight as an arrow for 2 WOT blasts through the gears.  The IMRC's closed after that and I drove home.  Im gonna pull the intake some time this week and lock those stupid things out.  Ive done all I can and its not worth it anymore.

Anyways.  Im hoping to get out and break these things in but not till after a 4 wheel alignment.  Then we will see if I can find some tenths.

Matt

 

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Again?!?!?!?!?

Round 2.jpg

IMRC's are outta there and rather than do the ziptie trick I got these dudes. 

IMRC Delete.jpg

Everyone is like, "oh buy the MMR plates, they look amazing".  Um...ITS ON THE BACK OF THE INTAKE MORONS.  Some actually are complaining that they dont offer them in other colors. :shiftyeyes:

Anyways, its done, didnt take long, new tune flashed and Ill be damned if the car doesnt run better than ever before.  One of the small issues I used to have with the Coyote was the fact that the throttle wasnt linear at all.  There was always a hesistation between light throttle cruise/starting from idle and accelerating to speed.  A tune helped a ton but not 100% and I just figured it was part of the drive by wire throttle body etc.  Nope.  Its the IMRC valves opening on accel.  They are good for low end grunt and fuel efficiency for sure, BUT apparently so it cam timing and some other wizardry of technological sorts beyond my grasp.  Throttle is linear, idle is strong, acceleration feels amazing with absolutely no more hesistations or stumbles and the car is easier to drive soft and slow as well.  Almost feels like I have a different clutch in the car its hard to explain.  Anyways, were taking it out East for a weekend in the Smokies so we will see how it feels on a good long drive!

Matt

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Mmmmmmmm..shiney new...wait, scratch that...

Dingy used speed parts!!!  Used and STUPID cheap Stainless Power Longtubes with high flow cats.  

Longtubes.jpg

I tried to sneak onto Disney's lift BUT the Lincoln is currently on it and I wont be the one getting between him and getting that sucker running right!!!  Being one who cant leave well enough alone, I ordered up some wheel cribs to try and get the sucker as high as I could SAFELY and got to work!

Wheel Cribs.jpg

I talked to a couple shops, all of which were super cool in giving me some tips they have learned along the way, but also warned me that its doable, but will take quite a bit of time.  If you believe everyone on Mustang6G you would believe that its a 13+ hour job and your sanity will leave you before you even get the first factory manifold off.  Thankfully, that wasnt the case for me.  I ditched the "how-to's" and dug in, getting both manifolds off with their cats and connections pipes in one big piece.

Stock Manifold 1.jpg

Stock Manifold 2.jpg

The factory "headers" as JohnC calls em LOL.  Super efficient sure, we've already seen that the Coyote breathes well with them but not even in the same ball field as the longtubes.  The driver's side cat is molded into the manifold and the passenger side pipe after the cat steps down to slightly smaller than 2 1/4 inch at the vibration coupler.  By about 1:30am this morning I had both longtubes in and the driver's side cat and connection pipe under the car.  I had to call it a night 1) because I was making too much noise hammering the other side apart due to being clamped TIGHT previously and 2) I nodded off under the car twice.  It was a gorgeous night and I was comfy!

She's all together now minus one small part and because of that, I wont be able to fire it up and enjoy it till Monday.

Longtubes installed.jpg

passenger side pre-cat O2 sensor's wiring isnt long enough and the new O2 that I ordered Thursday and paid to have over-nighted to me wont be showing up till Monday :smirk:

I packed up and moved into the garage to spend some time with the 66 at this point.  Hopefully Monday the new part will show and I can move on!

Matt

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I WISH!  Probably closer to half that but I'll still take it tho.  It pretty much completes the "bolt-on" combo too and at the price I got them for it was a no brainer.  Just gotta get that danged O2 sensor then I can fire it up!

Matt

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AND just like that, the passenger side is back out :wall: (dont laugh at the messy bench, we all should know that I work in a whirlwind of chaos THEN put everything away when Im done LOL)

Passenger header.jpg

Got the F150 O2 and it fit perfect.  Fired her up and immediately noticed a couple large leaks.  No worries, got back under, found them and sorted them out best I could.  There was still a pretty nasty tick from under the car so I took it to Maxi Muffler where we got rid of the factory neck down section and mated up the 3" to the 2.5" X pipe more fluidly.  This did not take care of the tick one bit.  I took it to the Hill for a couple runs and it was obvious that something was a miss.  The best I could muster was an 8.3 at 90 mph and I was dead nuts on that 90mph number all night.  I was on the new Continentals and had QUITE a bit more wheel spin but it still didnt add up to the low traps.  She also felt really lame bringing the RPMs up on the line and launching...felt like the boost timing master on the 66 used to when I had it pulling too much timing.  False knock galore!  Ends up, I didnt know about a notorious AC line bracket that NEEDS to be removed on the frame or else the header will make contact and timing will suffer.  Hell, the passenger side header had witness marks where the previous owner had left the bracket in as well and it had rubbed all over it.  Fast forward to last night, I hooked up the ole shop vac and got the soapy water out and found the tick.  It appears that the collector wasnt welded up fully and its leaking bad enough that I didnt even need the soapy water to find it, could hear and feel it blowing out. 

Leak.jpg

I was bummed but at the same time, its the same side that needs the bracket removed, which you cant reach when the header is installed so out it came.  Im gonna see if it can be welded up and saved before figuring out what to do next.  Motor is suspended by a jack at the moment so I gotta act fast :lol:

Matt

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Yeah, its the price I pay for buying used.  Should be nothing more than a couple more busted knuckles, bruises and some wasted time before shes back and running better than before.  Sounded crazy...at first I wasnt all about it but after running around in it all day I started to like it alot.  Minus the ticking that is.  If I can get it sealed up then I will be happy.

Matt

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All day long.  They are amazing.  Light weight, strong and tho its a pain in the ass to get this low of a car up on the 12"ers, they gave me TONS of room to do the header install.  MUCH better than jackstands for me right now and much more stable obviously.

Matt

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Disney welded up what we thought was the culprit from inside the collector and it appeared to check out after running some air thru it.  I got it installed and used some copper gasket sealer on the slip on connections that were also leaking and fired her up.  NOTICEABLY quieter, cleaner sounding and most importantly, no more ticking.  I sprayed around with a spray bottle and damned if the same spot in the collector isnt still leaking.  I layed a couple small tacks in the problem area from the outside and tried again and the leak is even smaller but still there.  You cannot hear it at all over the normal "Longtube" noise so Im calling it good enough.  IF it opens up down the road and starts ticking again then I will ditch these and bite the bullet and buy new probably.  I also got the AC bracket that was making contact with the passenger side header out and made sure that the exhaust wasnt loose, rattling or hitting anything that I could tell.  The car runs much better and pulls stronger so Im pretty sure most, if not all of my "false knock" issues are sorted.  I ran the tank of mostly E85 with a tad of 93 left over in it nearly completely dry (1 mile left till empty) and filled up with E85 so Ill do some datalogs and see if Im right.

When this exhaust tick issue first popped up I nearly put all the stock garbage back on.  I figured, it made great power so why not.  Im glad I didnt.  The little bit of power down low that the '18 manifold swap seemed to lose (butt dyno) seems to be completely back (same butt dyno, tho different day) and it runs great.  Ill have the tune looked at to make sure all is well then Ide like to get back in the swing of things out at the Hill.

Matt

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Can you not get to it from inside the collector, too?

I'd want it 100% welded up because even a small leak will screw up your O2 sensor readings and make the car run worse.

If you get a new set, get Kooks in Jet Hot Ceramic. :up:

66sprint6 likes this

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7 minutes ago, Ashley P said:

lol at the same butt dyno, different day...

Ready to take out Big John C??

If I can find the 3 mph I lost last time at the track and maybe tack another to it I MIGHT have a chance!

5 minutes ago, JohnC said:

Can you not get to it from inside the collector, too?

I'd want it 100% welded up because even a small leak will screw up your O2 sensor readings and make the car run worse.

If you get a new set, get Kooks in Jet Hot Ceramic. :up:

We could BARELY get a mig handle down in there and THOUGHT we had it sorted but its still leaking ever so slightly.  I agree about wanting it 100% sealed but Im gonna do some logging and see where its at.  Its a massive pain in the ass to pull BUT if its enough to throw off the tune then Ill pull it out again and see what I can do.  If I ditch this set I will grab some ARH's or Kooks for sure, just need to get out the lube for when I have to bend over to pay for em :wall:

Matt

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Sounds SO much better and runs great.  Some of the rasp is back at certain throttle levels and its just a tad louder at highway cruise so I might toss a longer resonator on it to try and tame it some...but its not unbearable by any means, Kathleen and Luke didnt mind it at all and it sounds dead sexy at WOT so I may leave it.  Not a necessity, getting the tune happy and making sure there arent any other false knock sources are then itll be gooooooooooooooooooooooooood.

Matt

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I’m sure you’ll be fine now.  But, if you ever get so frustrated that you consider buying new headers, remember that I can replace the whole collector cheaper than you can buy new headers.  That’s one of the big advantages to stainless (uncoated of course).

66sprint6, JohnC and keiths2kgt like this

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If the collector was cut off and rewelded it would be fine. I don't know if Matt has pictures, but once you see inside it you can see where they screwed up. Formed collector over tubes and no weld where the formed "dimples" would squeeze down between the tubes. Left a void for air to escape. 

 

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Very true...thanks guys.  Thats exactly what Ill end up doing IF the leak opens up enough to hear or messes with the tune at all.  I sent a log off to Lund to see if they want me to look at anything or if anything is still funky that they can tell.  See what they say!

Matt

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Heard back and it appears that all is well.  Its adding a ton of timing during the 3rd gear pull like it always did before, only had any "knock" during the 2nd gear pull where it spun like mad.  Cant hit the track tonight :smirk: but Im gonna try for next week and see if I got any of my missing mph back.  Might try out the sticky Mickey's as well if I have time to snag em before heading to the track.

Matt

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