Cannon Fodder

Fox Mustang: Next Purchase

694 posts in this topic

Dumb question........

WIth the EECIV you pull the spout and set the base timing at 10*, by the manual.

 

With the Holley it will not idle at 10*, currently to get it somewhat stable I'm around 25* in the map.

 

Using the 16x16 maps seems to be a lot better for initial adjustments than the 31x31.  IAC is high so I think I need to open the throttle blade or put the belt on it.  The discharge was not on it during the first round before the distributor mishap.

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Once the fuel and air is right, it'll idle at 10*. Get out the vacuum gauge. Start working the mixture at idle (just grab an 8x8 area and set them all the same). Once you get max vacuum from the mixture, then you can start backing down the timing and the idle airflow. 

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Oh yes. You won't use that stuff until the tune is getting close to right. Otherwise you'll just mask problems rather than correct them.

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Below is the current fuel and timing maps:

fuel.JPG

timing.JPG

Should I set an 8x8 fuel to what 3lbs/hr, that is about where it was idling, along with the 24.6 cells on the timing map?

Still need to check the Inductive delay again and verify the timing, which is hard when it will not idle at 10*, I guess I could bump it to 20* and see if it will idle there and check it, just have to mark the balancer again.

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Yes. Or whatever fuel it likes to idle at. Don't look at the Wideband when doing this. Listen to the engine, watch the vacuum (MAP sensor) and watch the tach. As you approach a good idle mixture, RPM will go up, MAP will go down. Then you can drop timing down some if needed. to drop RPM. Timing = torque. So if you are at idle and need more otrque, you can give it some timing.

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Posted (edited)

Not saying it is right, but it is idling better.

VIDEO0006.mp4

fuel.JPG

learn.JPG

spark.JPG

target.JPG

I turned the CL+ learn back on and drove around the block after I had it idling at 10* with the belt on.  I did have it idling with the belt off and had to open the throttle blade a bit to bring the IAC back down.  As soon as I put the belt on it started to surge again and had to play with the fuel and timing.

 

One thing I do not understand is that after a bit it will run the engine up to 2k and hang there until the engine is shut off and restarted.  I checked the laptop this time and IAC was showing 0 and TPS was showing 0 so I'm not sure what is causing it.  Any thoughts to check?

Edited by Cannon Fodder
Forgot Target Table

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The other thing I think my right O2 is bad, as in the video it is reading 5.0 AFR while the left is reading 14.5. :(

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3 hours ago, Cannon Fodder said:

Not saying it is right, but it is idling better.

VIDEO0006.mp4

fuel.JPG

learn.JPG

spark.JPG

target.JPG

I turned the CL+ learn back on and drove around the block after I had it idling at 10* with the belt on.  I did have it idling with the belt off and had to open the throttle blade a bit to bring the IAC back down.  As soon as I put the belt on it started to surge again and had to play with the fuel and timing.

 

One thing I do not understand is that after a bit it will run the engine up to 2k and hang there until the engine is shut off and restarted.  I checked the laptop this time and IAC was showing 0 and TPS was showing 0 so I'm not sure what is causing it.  Any thoughts to check?

Double check it for a vacuum leak maybe.  It needs to be tuned when everything is warmed up.  Then there are tables to add or take away when it’s cold.

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The car was warm, it was on the second trip around the block after working on the fuel timing maps for an hour or so.  The same thing happened before the distributor mishap when I was running it around the block.  I don't hear any vac leaks but hard to hear them over the ticking of the injectors, whine of the blower, fan noise, etc.

I don't think it is a vac leak, I think that would have shown up well before I took it around the block.

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I think I figured out my idle problem, IAC parked setting.  Idled up after I left the driveway and I looked at the IAC, 35%.  I reduced the setting to 10% and took it around the block and down the street and it didn't do it again.

 

Now to give it a bath, it hasn't had one in over a year.

Edited by Cannon Fodder
66sprint6 and JohnC like this

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5 hours ago, JohnC said:

It runs and drives? You mean we might get to see this thing at the track soon? :D

*Ashley P waits for someone to turn that last comment around on John C.  

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10 hours ago, Ashley P said:

*Ashley P waits for someone to turn that last comment around on John C.  

Not possible.

It runs and drives me to work every day, and has already been down the track.

Just look at the past video's.

It consistently runs 7's in the 1/8 and 11's in the 1/4 on a street tire with traction control on.

The tune is just not 100% perfect, which means there is more HP and quicker ET's on the table. ;)

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On 9/16/2018 at 4:07 PM, JohnC said:

It runs and drives? You mean we might get to see this thing at the track soon? :D

Sort of runs, sort of drives....

learn2.jpg

Sort of makes a little boost

Still need to figure out the long start and warm up problem, need to feather the throttle 2 or 3 times before it will idle

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