BlackMamba

2002 Mustang Issues

46 posts in this topic

This reminds me of my "Shiny Car". I bought it sight unseen from a guy who couldn't get it running. The guy he got it from also couldn't get it running. He had taken it in for an oil change, and it never ran after that. Guy I got it from replaced a slew of parts. Nothing ever worked. I went up to Maryland and drug it home. I spent an hour or so with a test light chasing power and finally found a connector that was pulled apart just a little bit. Pushed it back together and everything lit up and she started and ran for the first time in years. 

Moral of the story: I suspect you have something similar going on related to the engine replacement. Just go through it all and you'll find something stupid and never tell us what it was. :)

66sprint6, Ashley P and mstrpth like this

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Disney,

same events more that once happened , that pesky separate Black ECM wire under the battery that always comes loose when the unknowing change batteries on these cars.

I had one guy get so mad the car had set for 6 months, the guy threw a hammer thru the drivers window when the car started after I showed him the wire that he had missed.

Disney likes this

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I have gone back over everything i can . But I am sure it is something I missed and it is really getting to me!! I pulled the fender well out and found the connector that has white/red, check with the key turned to start and it has power. From the other side of the connector it seems the wire changes color on pin #6 to red with blue?

I see a white/red that goes to what seems to the be cruise control system. Man I though it was just going to be a simple connection that I could check wire color to wire color but nope.

 

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I guess the wire has to go to some other location. I just have to try and figure out when it goes in the harness. It ends obviously at the start relay. Im gonna get my son to key the switch to start and see if I can keep testing where I am getting power and where I am not.. If anyone has a circuit of where else this stupid wire passes through that would be amazing!

I am just at the point of frustration and this thing is really getting to me. I pulled the wire loom off most of the wiring for the main harness coming through the fire wall and the 1 connector to cruise control, and the other 2 connectors in the wheel well. I guess I will just need to continue to cut the loom back and try and see where this red/blue wire goes and where it changes to white/red. I dont know where else there is another connection point where it changes from red/blue to the white/red to check where it is dropping power.

FML!

Edited by BlackMamba
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Nope, I havent been able to work on the car very much, Its just cold as hell. I took the wire loom off around where the wire come out of the fender well and coming back off the fuse box hoping they came together there in the wire loom. They both head towards the front of the car.

I am getting to the point where I dont even want to go into the garage anymore. I got some starter fluid and gave the motor a shot and it fire right up and was running till it ran out of "fuel"

So I am pretty confident if I were to get it to crank correctly and get the fuel pump running it would take off. But I really dont feel like pulling the radiator back out and and start pulling wire loom off for days tracing the where this wire goes.

Is there a quick place to check and see if the fuel pump is getting power without dropping the tank down and checking it at the pump connection? COuld this be a CCRM problem possibly?

Thanks

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Outta curiosity, are there any codes stored in ECM, or BCM?

Also something else I just thought of, you said the engine was swapped.....in doing so Im guessing transmission was pulled?.

Put the car in reverse then hit the key, if it cranks transmission connector is backwards

 

Edited by KNIGHT347

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I have a small engine scanner that is not the greatest but it does not show any codes listed when I run a scan on it.

The trans was pulled as I needed to swap the flywheel and clutch out to the new motor. I will try your suggestion and let you know if it works. I will try damn near anything at this point in time.

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No sorry, I have not been able to get out to the garage much at all. I have to start putting all the wire loom and stuff back together on the driver side and wheel well back in. I traced the wire to a connector underneath the intake as I followed it from inside the wheel well to over to under the intake. From there it seems to go into the passenger wheel well.

So not sure if it goes to the ecu or not?

 

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If you are still tracing the same wire, and if you're still tracing the same direction, it's still going to the relay which you first checked.  At least that's according to Ford diagrams....

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Sorry guys, no update at the moment. I haven't been able to work on the car very much at all. With the holidays, work and the wife feel a bit ill and is on some pretty serious antibiotics to hopefully help things out while waiting on some test results.Been a bit of a tough few weeks.

Hoping to try and get back to work and test some thing out. Last I worked on it, I know the wire from the passenger fender connector to the relay is good, and the wire from the ignition switch to that connector is good so I am gonna put everything back together and then look at the passenger fender well area.

I did shoot some ether in it and jump the relay and she fired right up though.

JohnC likes this

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Well guys I am trying to work on this thing again. I got my other car finally running and what not and want to try and get this car done so my dad can hopefully sell it so I can try and buy Holley Terminator X and switch from MicroSquirt.

I pulled these diagrams from the Haynes manual I got for the car. I am going to trace all the wiring and check for voltage at run and key on to the starter. I do not know where or what the diagram is showing is the Anti-Theft Controller Module. So If I can check everything up to this it may give me a source of my issue.

I also don't seem to have the fuel pump coming on. I am going to check everything I can, and also check what was called out at pin 11 on the CCRM and then check voltage at the inertia switch  and I guess fuel pump. But I was told there is also another relay or something in the trunk near the inertia switch that is for the fuel pump. GOD I HOPE I CAN FIGURE THIS OUT!

Thanks Guys

 

 

Mustang Wiring.pdf

JohnC likes this

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So I checked as much as I could today. Ill scan my diagram and post it in the morning. 

In Regards to no crank, I confirmed 12v all the way from battery to out going of the clutch safety switch. From there I don't know what or where the anti theft module is located or how to test it. From there I guess the signal should be sent to the relay to power the starter. I confirm ground on the terminal for the relay, and checked continuity from relay location to starter and it was good. I think its all good minus getting the signal from out of clutch switch to relay. 

In regards to fuel pump not running., I check the 20A fuse and its good, then checked for power on pin 11 on the CCRM which the Haynes says confirms power from the 20A fuse. Then checked power at the fuel pump plug under the read bumper on the brown/pnk wire with the key on and got 12V. This kinda leads me to think the fuel pump might be bad and not running?

Please guys any help would greatly appreciated. I am pretty desperate at this point. 

JohnC likes this

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First for sanity I would bypass the relay so it will crank when the clutch is in and key turned to start. See if it cranks. Then go after the fuel pressure. Likely the pump is locked up from sitting with ethanol fuel in the tank. Might be able to let it soak with seafoam in the tank to free it up, but that's a crap shoot. Eazsy enough to drop the tank and put a pump in it. Once you know the pump is running, then see if it will start. 

Ashley P and JohnC like this

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What do you think is the best option for bypassing the relay? I was thinking since I have most of the loom pulled back I could run a wire from the output side of the clutch pedal switch to the signal wire of the relay and see if it will crank with the clutch in and not with the clutch out. Also on the clutch pedal it seems to have two points to connect into but it would only go into one the way it was oriented. I guess it is correct.

And I was thinking of just buying a fuel pump and replacing it since I feel like it should be on when the key is on start and I have power to the wire under the bumper.

I also attached the diagram of things I checked last night with my meter.

Again thank for the help!.

Mustang Wiring.pdf

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So I put a new fuel pump in and put a jumper wire from the outside of the clutch switch so it will only see 12V when the clutch is pressed in and I put it to where the signal wire should be going to the starter relay and the car cranks no problem and fired right up and idled great. So What in the crap could I be missing?

Thanks

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The wire has to be broken somewhere or there's a bad pin in a connector or something between the clutch switch and the starter.  I say tuck that new wire in nicely and move on.  I think you've fixed the problem, you just never found the specific source of the problem.

 

The anti theft stuff on a new edge car is in the ecu.  The anti theft will allow the car to start, then immediately shut off.  It has nothing to do with the starter

JohnC and Ashley P like this

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