JohnC

Tuning L99 for Heads, Cam, Exhaust, Converter, etc.

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Question...

What should my Engine > Airflow > Variable Camshaft > Intake Camshaft > Startup Desired Angle > Cold be set to? It is zero'd out right now.

But...

Engine > Airflow > Variable Camshaft > Exhaust Camshaft > Startup Desired Angle > Cold has 5 across the board. Should this also be zero'd out?

I'm trying to make sure all this VVT stuff is correct because a Texas Speed tech looked at my VCT aka VVT tables and said they were entered wrong by the tuner.

I copied the VCT tables and pasted them in, so they should be correct now.

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Question...

What should my Engine > Airflow > Variable Camshaft > Intake Camshaft > Startup Desired Angle > Cold be set to? It is zero'd out right now.

But...

Engine > Airflow > Variable Camshaft > Exhaust Camshaft > Startup Desired Angle > Cold has 5 across the board. Should this also be zero'd out?

I'm trying to make sure all this VVT stuff is correct because a Texas Speed tech looked at my VCT aka VVT tables and said they were entered wrong by the tuner.

I copied the VCT tables and pasted them in, so they should be correct now.

The exhaust cam should be ignored in the tune so those values won’t matter.

JohnC likes this

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Drive after catch can and tall valve cover install....

Log_06_25_2018.hpl

Still has knock. :wall:

About to use this car for a 50 bmg target! :rifle: 

It just doesn't improve no matter what i do. Topend isn't pulling like it should; just like the dyno shows. Feels like a truck cam. Power down low and mid, top winds up but you just don't feel the power. WTF!?!? :wall: 

 

 

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Can you turn down the knock sensor sensitivity? You've got the octane. You control the timing. Run it with the knock off or dialed way back and see what it does.

JohnC likes this

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Posted (edited)

But you've got a cam out of time code??   That's a red flag to me (with no idea how your "tune" approaches the diagnostic).    You say the engine has good low end and mid range, but no top end.  When talking old school cams with both intake and exhaust lobes on one cam:   An advanced cam will run that way. Advancing the cam helps "bottom end", retarding it helps "top end". 

Better investigate that cam code....

Edited by Ashley P

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Have you chased down all possibilities for false knock.  Disney said it right, you have the octane and unless your timing is jacked or fueling isnt up to par (which it SHOULD be) then look around for exhaust touching, loose/broken/worn mount somewhere, something loose under the hood etc.  Ide chase that down till I had it sorted, then the knock sensors can do their jobs.  Unless this is a common issue with LS knock sensors (being too sensitive).

Matt

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Can you turn down the knock sensor sensitivity? You've got the octane. You control the timing. Run it with the knock off or dialed way back and see what it does.

He’s only commanding 24 degrees and getting 10 degrees of knock retard (.92 airmass, 6,000 rpm in the log I’m viewing). I would be looking for exhaust rattles/hitting the body or something. And that p0011 for the cam position is a permanent code, you can’t clear it. That was most likely tripped if it was driven before the cam phaser tables were changed.

66sprint6 likes this

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Does it tell you which knock sensor is reporting?

No it won’t, they work together.

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19 minutes ago, gammey4 said:

 And that p0011 for the cam position is a permanent code, you can’t clear it. That was most likely tripped if it was driven before the cam phaser tables were changed.

Can't be cleared?  Because of the tune???  (I'm used to stock stuff...if the code won't clear it's because the "part is broken".)   (I wonder why only one intake cam is coded...)

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15 minutes ago, gammey4 said:

He’s only commanding 24 degrees and getting 10 degrees of knock retard (.92 airmass, 6,000 rpm in the log I’m viewing). I would be looking for exhaust rattles/hitting the body or something. And that p0011 for the cam position is a permanent code, you can’t clear it. That was most likely tripped if it was driven before the cam phaser tables were changed.

Is there no way to clear p0011?

Every time I clear DTC's it comes right back immediately KOEO.

I'll check the exhaust next time I get a day off.

Could that false knock be the culprit to the dip in the dyno graph?

Is there a way to temporarily disable the knock sensors to see if it performs better up top?

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I'm going to keep pulling timing until I get to maybe 5 degrees. It would have to be false knock if I got timing that low on E85 at 80% alky, right?

It's either that or buy a can of VP or Torco race fuel additive and add it to the E85 and see if the knock goes away.

Which is the best way?

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Add the octane boost and see what happens.  On E85 Im betting its false knock unless something is just out of whack.  If it doesnt go away with adding octane boost/race gas to the E85 then you can be pretty certain its false knock all along.  

False knock can pull alot of timing and tho Im not sure about the dip on the dyno, it can hold you back at the track.  Right after the longtube install I went to Union Hill and couldnt trap over 90mph when I was running 92 mph before without them.  Passenger header hitting the AC bracket was the culprit and now its looking good on datalogs and at the track after removing it.  You will find it!  Get the car in the air and starting at the header collector and working your way back to the tips, rap on the pipes with a rubber mallet and see if it rings or just goes THUD.  Also look for signs of exhaust leaks while your at it.

Matt

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Can't be cleared?  Because of the tune???  (I'm used to stock stuff...if the code won't clear it's because the "part is broken".)   (I wonder why only one intake cam is coded...)

Hp tuners can’t clear the code a tech 2 could do it. And only the “intake” cam because it only has one cam, the exhaust side of the tune is ignored.

Ashley P and JohnC like this

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Back drivers side plug....

Looks normal for e85 other than the oil on the plug threads...

8682f18499189dd2bcadd6775f2fd50f.heic

c4c049122739c849dece6c462e6c8dbd.heic

d809368cd151260d0a2d17d2e4e48555.heic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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1 minute ago, 66sprint6 said:

Whats got you pullin plugs?

Matt

Trying to read plugs...

Trying to figure out if knock is false or real.

I'm leaning towards false.

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Back drivers side plug....

Looks normal for e85 other than the oil on the plug threads...

8682f18499189dd2bcadd6775f2fd50f.heic

c4c049122739c849dece6c462e6c8dbd.heic

d809368cd151260d0a2d17d2e4e48555.heic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe it’s just the picture but that gap looks huge.

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