Jamtoy

LS3 advice.

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Dropped it off at the tuner today. Big3 racing in Hinckley. Going to get tuned first and then learn to drive again. Drag radials are next thing I need and just bought a shift light because the gauges are hard to see and the tach in the heads up display sucks.

 

BTW what should I expect to pay for a can install? This place wants 3500 including most parts(BTR can kit). If I want to get a better timing chain etc obviously extra and probably good time to do oil pump.

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1 hour ago, Jamtoy said:

Dropped it off at the tuner today. Big3 racing in Hinckley. Going to get tuned first and then learn to drive again. Drag radials are next thing I need and just bought a shift light because the gauges are hard to see and the tach in the heads up display sucks.

BTW what should I expect to pay for a can install? This place wants 3500 including most parts(BTR can kit). If I want to get a better timing chain etc obviously extra and probably good time to do oil pump.

Which cam are you doing? 

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Look at ET Street R Bias Ply's since it's a manual.  More forgiving, more hook and more fun than radials!!!!  They sway on the big end but you can counter with skinnys or airing up your fronts and learning to drive through it.  I love em, way better than the radials I was trying.  Auto cars are great on radials, manuals love bias plys.

Matt

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Ok, just heard from the tuner and seems the car is pulling about 2* of timing up high. Still has old gas from last year in it which may be the culprit(which is what he thinks). Don't have the full dyno sheet yet but in a nutshell it made 400whp at 6150 and was falling off to 6500 because of knock. This is on a mustang dyno and he says he generally sees 415-420 with the simple mods mine has. Headers, cold air, exhaust. I was thinking it would probably do around 420 which would be around a 35whp gain with headers and tuning. Between my two stock runs of 378 and 385 it should have picked up more. I honestly think I need to get some good gas in it. I cant pick it up until Sat and then Ill get the Dyno sheet.

 

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13 hours ago, Jamtoy said:

FE8BA695-932D-4AAF-91F3-F3DB6F117682.jpeg

love the wheels and the spacers improve the stance. If my car had a vagina I’d be complete.

 

With a better background, that is desktop worthy. :yes:

 

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Looks AWESOME!  Its amazing what a small spacer can do to factory wheels if they are set a little too inboard.  My GT looked fantastic with a 25mm spacer all around!  Now it looks amazing, sounds amazing...time to get a tire and go have some fun!

Matt

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10 hours ago, Jamtoy said:

Drag radials are next on the agenda. Car has no traction in first or second. Even the TC cannot stop the spinning.

 

Try having 760 rwhp..... :lol: 

Disney likes this

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  • so turns out that wonderful magna-ride crap goes bad and is on the expensive side. So bilsteins and prothane bushings for control arms going in next week. Have to add simulators for the factory shocks but still, 4 Bilsteins for the price of one gm mag ride. Also swapped to a suede sparco that allows for better view of the gauges.
66sprint6, Tino, JohnC and 1 other like this

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Went to the track last night. The DA was 3544, temp was 78-80* with 95% humidity.

I think my car weighs probably ~3800 with me in it. I'm currently 279lbs. Had 3/4 tank of gas. It made 400whp with headers and tune on mustang dyno. Street tires Michelin PS AS3's

I suck at driving.

Best ET was 13.00 best mph was 112.75 which it seems to do regardless of how bad I launch. To little rpm=bog, to much=wheel spin through first. Sixty foots were 2.2-2.4. Only ran 3 passes because place was packed.

How much did the DA effect the runs? How accurate are adjusted times using DA? Yep, I need drag radial's. 20" street tires do not like drag racing.

 

 

 

 

 

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Nice, glad to see your out making passes!

DA kills runs for sure but not as bad as those street tires are!  You are not only losing out with those 60's but might also be losing some time down track between the 1-2 shift.  My Coyote car picked up a TON when I finally got a good tire and a good portion was picking up traction on the 1-2.  I would blow the street tires off in 2nd and often would short shift 1st to try and keep it at a minimum.  When I could finally run 1st all the way out AND hook 2nd with nothing more than a solid chirp, it was awesome!

There are calculations you can do to adjust your time for DA but Im not sure how accurate they are or are not.  I do know that my Shelby lost 2-3 mph and a little over 2 tenths in the 1/8th going from a DA of 2300 to 5500 last week!

Get some tires, keep working on the seat time and itll all come around!

Matt

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One calculation says at that DA it's should be 12.6 and 116mph so seems about right. MPH would indicate an high 11's and I suppose if I could drive half way decent that may happen. Planning supercharger and cam next year anyway but I may go ahead and get DR's for the fall.

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This is what happens when you make a car guy stay at home. Headlight resto, new splitter, side skirts and hoping to do a color change wrap too. Paint is old and rough. 

 

IMG_0394.JPG

IMG_0412.JPG

JohnC, Cody, 66sprint6 and 1 other like this

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Oh hell no! Sending out. Looking at BMW Azurite Black which has a wicked blue hue to it. Or possibly a deep emerald green.

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Man I like the color it is BUT either option you listed sounds sick.  I LOVE the light metalflake blue that came on some of the Vettes and if I were after one it would have to be that color.  I didnt get the color I wanted when I got the GT500 and have often thought about a full color change wrap but Im just not sure.  Im super interested in seeing how yours turns out if you go that route!

Matt

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