NukeWorker

The Bootlegger

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Time for an update.

Test fitting quarter

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Welded out subframe and deburred with some more epoxy....a little more gloss than I would like 

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And there was a delivery

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So now have a full Ride tech 4 link coilover system for the car.  Setting up axle brackets this coming weekend. So I can set up the gears and get the shell blasted to make this a roller.

JohnC, Ashley P, Cody and 2 others like this

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29 minutes ago, Ashley P said:

Nice update!

Would you tell me your brand of quarter and thoughts on it's quality/price?

AMD.  Needed love at lower jamb.  Slice and weld to get gap even. Otherwise fit great.

Edited by NukeWorker
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I am starting research on my wiring solutions for the car.  I am looking to replace all the factory wiring (pretty crusty and not worth reworking it all anyways)

I am adding power windows and locks.

A vintage air setup

Line Lock

maybe nitrous (I might end up needing the hood clearance instead)

EFI

Remote Keyless entry

Basic stereo (need my hands free and will just have a powered single sub in the trunk to fill out the sound, 6x9's in deck and prob just some tweeters up front)

I plan on LED bulbs in everything but maybe headlights (I might just stick with some H4 conversion housings)

Battery will be trunk mounted.  I plan on a fused relay module in the trunk for the fuel pump and same for Sub power.

I am not running a "1 wire" GM alternator and I am not a fan of the factory bulkhead connector (I have a couple 22 pin weather pack bulkheads laying around or maybe just a large grommet tucked up out of view)

I would like to put headlights on a pair of relays.

I am running a GM column.

I will be running the factory GM gauges.

So should I start with a universal kit (was looking at the 28 circuit painless kit at $470) or should I do the American Autowire Update harness?  Both are a GM style bolt in panel it looks like.  The AAW kit is more complete (not having to source some plug ins or make subharnesses) but locks me in to their design and routing to a point I think (already terminated)

or I could just some bussman micro ATC panel with ISO relays and put it on my own mounting panel and just have a couple studs for aux power so things like the GPS drive for the gauge cluster, vintage air, etc can be "added" in as needed and easily changed.

2015-06-04_BussmannRTMRMounted_Z2A2392_T

I figured I would need panels (one with relays and one with just fuses) 

 

SO what is a good starting point?

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I'd lean towards a two prong approach. AAW for the vehicle side (lights, radio, key on power, etc.) and bussman type panel for some of the add on stuff. 

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Been a busy couple weeks.

I got the car loaded up and out to sand blasting.

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Built up the rear axle after having it blasted.  1350 yoke, 30 spline axles, truetrac, 4.10 gears, blazer rear discs, 12mm wheel studs (my 1LE fronts are 12mm and IF I got to some CPP C5 fronts they are 12mm too)

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Opening up press in holes for the 12mm studs.

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Had bumpers blasted.

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Got it back from blasting and started in on the epoxy primer and some final patching up (after finding issues I wasn't expecting)  also started shaving firewall and filling some unused openings.  Bolted the 4 link under it for good.  axles is getting a final coat of paint tomorrow night and will get bolted in Tuesday night if all goes well.

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I just looked at the four link setup.   What brand is that?  I'm looking for installation diagrams...I don't "like" the way the top mounts to the body, reminds me of a Fox body which pull apart.  ??

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It is the older Ride tech setup.  There are 5 bolts and one u bolt into the frame rail on each side plus the floor mount.  They have a newer setup that is more of a subframe that mounts in...for another $1500 in price.  I paid $4100 for the front and rear with coilovers.

3 hours ago, Ashley P said:

I just looked at the four link setup.   What brand is that?  I'm looking for installation diagrams...I don't "like" the way the top mounts to the body, reminds me of a Fox body which pull apart.  ??

 

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I visualize the tension of the uppers and compression of the lowers when the car pops a wheelie.  Any sheetmetal involved in that is...risiky...doomed??  lol    Of course, if you're gonna be a street tire cruiser that's a moot point.

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2 hours ago, Ashley P said:

I visualize the tension of the uppers and compression of the lowers when the car pops a wheelie.  Any sheetmetal involved in that is...risiky...doomed??  lol    Of course, if you're gonna be a street tire cruiser that's a moot point.

where the bolt into the rail is pretty beefy.  I might tie the two sides together with a brace....waiting to get the rear back in and see how much room there is.

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16 hours ago, Ashley P said:

^ Zip tied up outta the way is what I concluded after scratching my head...

MARK THIS DAY!!!!  I think Ashley P may be right.....

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8 minutes ago, Disney said:

MARK THIS DAY!!!!  I think Ashley P may be right.....

 

Too bad I have no idea how to make that my signature.

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22 hours ago, Ashley P said:

^ Zip tied up outta the way is what I concluded after scratching my head...

Yup.  Kept them from flopping around.  Axle gets bolted in tonight.  

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On 6/4/2018 at 9:34 AM, Disney said:

Well, since it's a Pontiac... SLOW.

 

Been covered up with yard work and some trips the last couple of months.  Putting together some gates for the backyard (steel frame with a sheet skin that is being water jetted out with a design) 

kinda like this:

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Also got distracted swapping a 4.10 8.5" rear into my single cab (along with larger SUV brakes)  I THOUGHT it would just swap in and turns out the pinion angle is off some and I have a bit of a vibration to sort out still.  I am crossing my fingers that removing the drop shackles will help it out.

 

I have the pedal box all sorted out now (hydroboost mounted, pushrod length set, clutch master, etc)  New door hinges arrive this week so I can get the door alignment going.  I did get the rear brakes all assembled and are ready to start fabbing up some e-brake cables to work with the rear discs.  Sold the snowflakes off so now I can pull the trigger on the 17's.  I still have some bags of sackrete piled in front of the car keeping me from finishing up the firewall.  Hoping to get a curb/footing placed this weekend.

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I have been squeezing in more shop time lately

 

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More wiring supplies showing up today (term your own XFI harness kit)

 

Mounted the vintage air box with supplied brackets.  Was not happy with it way over to the right.  Looked at some Detroit Speed build photos and they mount them in a small frame and then hang the ecu and other electronics off it....and locate the heater box about 8 inches towards the drivers side.  Just trying to get everything mocked up and routed while I wait for the 100+ weather to break in a couple weeks so I can get back to bodywork.

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Suggestion on the XFI wiring. Wire it up through a bulkhead connector. That ways you can do the mock up on the engine on a stand and then just plug in. Also helps for motor swap and if you change motors later you can make a new engine side of the harness. 

Got pics of the Vintage Air stuff? 

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Too many wires for a bulkhead on the XFI harness.  I have a couple 22pin weatherpack bulkheads but think I would need 2 of them.  I still have my old suspect xfi harness for a donor.  Also turns out they use Honda ecu plugs (could junkyard plugs and pins then)

 

I was planning to just grommet through the firewall near the passenger head to try and keep it clean.  If I swap to an LS later on I might go to a GM ecu or maybe a Holley setup.  I am eliminating the Fast design of a "main harness" you plug into and building it as a one piece harness.  Just planning to route wires and zip tie up bundles for now.  I will term it out once I am closer to trying to start it up (still need to plumb everything) I am switching to a LS3 style MAP so I need to pull the intake and weld up a boss for it to mount on.  Also need to move the ECT over as it hits the ac compressor.....and notch the drivers valvecover for the compressor (or just toss on a centerbolt cover for now) 

 

I'll get some vintage aid pics this weekend as I fab up the new mounts for it.

 

I started playing paint on some parts.  Column is ready for some satin paint and reassembly (cruise switch ordered and will be here shortly) drivers door just needs some spot putty in a couple spots and blocked out again and then it gets topcoat and clear.  Still needs the power lock solenoid and power window regulator installed.  

Mirrors got first coat last night and will get blocked and second coat and clear this weekend.

 

Making list of additional wires I need.  Speedway kit does not include wiper wiring, backup lights, power window or locks, speaker, nitrous, or line lock wires....they did give me wire for the vss though.

 

Debating what to do about center console.  Shifter is far forward.  Might see if it has and melty parts and heat and bend it back a bit or weld a new handle to it (one piece B&M shifter) 

 

Glass hood needs cut for shaker.  It has no inner structure (bolts to stock hinges but no latch provisions I think) and is light but I don't want to watch the hood vibrate all the time.  Need to find something to 'glass over to add some support to it....maybe before I start cutting.

 

Dash cap gets here today (just dashes wanted $1400 to recover so I think painted abs will be ok)

 

Need to hit the u pull for a cruise control module so I can find a home for it (maybe under dash?) And collect some tube nuts for steering lines and hydraboost.

Need a lockring/snap ring for the fuel tank so I can pressure test it for leaks before it goes under the car. (Need it out of the way) 

 

I have a busy weekend planned so look for updates.

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