NukeWorker

The Bootlegger

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Time for an update.

Test fitting quarter

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Welded out subframe and deburred with some more epoxy....a little more gloss than I would like 

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And there was a delivery

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So now have a full Ride tech 4 link coilover system for the car.  Setting up axle brackets this coming weekend. So I can set up the gears and get the shell blasted to make this a roller.

66sprint6, Ashley P, Disney and 2 others like this

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29 minutes ago, Ashley P said:

Nice update!

Would you tell me your brand of quarter and thoughts on it's quality/price?

AMD.  Needed love at lower jamb.  Slice and weld to get gap even. Otherwise fit great.

Edited by NukeWorker
Ashley P likes this

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I am starting research on my wiring solutions for the car.  I am looking to replace all the factory wiring (pretty crusty and not worth reworking it all anyways)

I am adding power windows and locks.

A vintage air setup

Line Lock

maybe nitrous (I might end up needing the hood clearance instead)

EFI

Remote Keyless entry

Basic stereo (need my hands free and will just have a powered single sub in the trunk to fill out the sound, 6x9's in deck and prob just some tweeters up front)

I plan on LED bulbs in everything but maybe headlights (I might just stick with some H4 conversion housings)

Battery will be trunk mounted.  I plan on a fused relay module in the trunk for the fuel pump and same for Sub power.

I am not running a "1 wire" GM alternator and I am not a fan of the factory bulkhead connector (I have a couple 22 pin weather pack bulkheads laying around or maybe just a large grommet tucked up out of view)

I would like to put headlights on a pair of relays.

I am running a GM column.

I will be running the factory GM gauges.

So should I start with a universal kit (was looking at the 28 circuit painless kit at $470) or should I do the American Autowire Update harness?  Both are a GM style bolt in panel it looks like.  The AAW kit is more complete (not having to source some plug ins or make subharnesses) but locks me in to their design and routing to a point I think (already terminated)

or I could just some bussman micro ATC panel with ISO relays and put it on my own mounting panel and just have a couple studs for aux power so things like the GPS drive for the gauge cluster, vintage air, etc can be "added" in as needed and easily changed.

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I figured I would need panels (one with relays and one with just fuses) 

 

SO what is a good starting point?

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I'd lean towards a two prong approach. AAW for the vehicle side (lights, radio, key on power, etc.) and bussman type panel for some of the add on stuff. 

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Been a busy couple weeks.

I got the car loaded up and out to sand blasting.

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Built up the rear axle after having it blasted.  1350 yoke, 30 spline axles, truetrac, 4.10 gears, blazer rear discs, 12mm wheel studs (my 1LE fronts are 12mm and IF I got to some CPP C5 fronts they are 12mm too)

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Opening up press in holes for the 12mm studs.

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Had bumpers blasted.

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Got it back from blasting and started in on the epoxy primer and some final patching up (after finding issues I wasn't expecting)  also started shaving firewall and filling some unused openings.  Bolted the 4 link under it for good.  axles is getting a final coat of paint tomorrow night and will get bolted in Tuesday night if all goes well.

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Disney likes this

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I just looked at the four link setup.   What brand is that?  I'm looking for installation diagrams...I don't "like" the way the top mounts to the body, reminds me of a Fox body which pull apart.  ??

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It is the older Ride tech setup.  There are 5 bolts and one u bolt into the frame rail on each side plus the floor mount.  They have a newer setup that is more of a subframe that mounts in...for another $1500 in price.  I paid $4100 for the front and rear with coilovers.

3 hours ago, Ashley P said:

I just looked at the four link setup.   What brand is that?  I'm looking for installation diagrams...I don't "like" the way the top mounts to the body, reminds me of a Fox body which pull apart.  ??

 

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I visualize the tension of the uppers and compression of the lowers when the car pops a wheelie.  Any sheetmetal involved in that is...risiky...doomed??  lol    Of course, if you're gonna be a street tire cruiser that's a moot point.

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2 hours ago, Ashley P said:

I visualize the tension of the uppers and compression of the lowers when the car pops a wheelie.  Any sheetmetal involved in that is...risiky...doomed??  lol    Of course, if you're gonna be a street tire cruiser that's a moot point.

where the bolt into the rail is pretty beefy.  I might tie the two sides together with a brace....waiting to get the rear back in and see how much room there is.

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16 hours ago, Ashley P said:

^ Zip tied up outta the way is what I concluded after scratching my head...

MARK THIS DAY!!!!  I think Ashley P may be right.....

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8 minutes ago, Disney said:

MARK THIS DAY!!!!  I think Ashley P may be right.....

 

Too bad I have no idea how to make that my signature.

Disney likes this

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22 hours ago, Ashley P said:

^ Zip tied up outta the way is what I concluded after scratching my head...

Yup.  Kept them from flopping around.  Axle gets bolted in tonight.  

Disney likes this

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