JohnC

2010 Camaro SS

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I checked over on the Camaro forum. My hot oil pressure is normal.

For the cooling issue, do you think a 160F thermostat and turning the fans on sooner will help for the hot months.

I’d switch back to stock temp for winter though.

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1 hour ago, JohnC said:

 

I checked over on the Camaro forum. My hot oil pressure is normal.

 

For the cooling issue, do you think a 160F thermostat and turning the fans on sooner will help for the hot months.

 

I’d switch back to stock temp for winter though.

Shouldn't change the result one little bit. It will ultimately get to the same temperature. You've got to figure out how to move more air across the radiator. Whether that's getting more in, or more out, that is the question. A fan is just an air pump.... INtake and exhaust. They have to balance.

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6 hours ago, Disney said:

Shouldn't change the result one little bit. It will ultimately get to the same temperature. You've got to figure out how to move more air across the radiator. Whether that's getting more in, or more out, that is the question. A fan is just an air pump.... INtake and exhaust. They have to balance.

I think the issue is, too much crap in front of the radiator. 

The fans just can't pull enough air when stopped idling.

Even with the hood open, the temps climb. 

I'm not really sure how to remedy this.

There is no more room for a thicker radiator or fans.

The blower intake piping is right against the back of the fan motors.

Something like Redline Water Wetter, or is there a better coolant additive out there?

This is going to be a real issue in the hotter summer months. :meh: 

IMG_0911.JPG

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Be nice if it would fit. You can move the trans cooler to the rear of the car and add a fan. Remove the IC and go A/W. Do some sealing and air routing. Lots of options.

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2 minutes ago, Disney said:

 ...some sealing...

Has any of the factory sealing/ducting around the radiator been "modified"?  Make sure the fan pulls all the air through the rad.  

Have you slowed the water pump with a pulley swap?

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12 hours ago, Disney said:

Be nice if it would fit. You can move the trans cooler to the rear of the car and add a fan. Remove the IC and go A/W. Do some sealing and air routing. Lots of options.

I know the 5th gen ZL1 has a heat extractor hood and a more open lower front bumper with a scoop to direct air to the radiator.

That might be an option, too. 

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Compare the top wideband reading to the bottom.

Car still wants to throw P219A and P219B.

It's swinging pretty lean. 1.1XX lambda at times.

Something is definitely up... :meh: 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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 Regarding P219A and P219B:

Diagnostic Aids

* The fuel trim cylinder balance diagnostic is very sensitive to HO2S design.  A non-OE sensor or an incorrect part number my cause a DTc to set.

* Certain aftermarket air filters may cause a DTC to set

* Certain aftermarket air induction systems or modifications to the air induction system my cause a DTC to set.

* Certain aftermarket exhaust system components my cause a DTC to set.

 

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 Regarding P219A and P219B:

Diagnostic Aids

* The fuel trim cylinder balance diagnostic is very sensitive to HO2S design.  A non-OE sensor or an incorrect part number my cause a DTc to set.

* Certain aftermarket air filters may cause a DTC to set

* Certain aftermarket air induction systems or modifications to the air induction system my cause a DTC to set.

* Certain aftermarket exhaust system components my cause a DTC to set.

 

I never had this problem until I swapped the cats on.

I’m positive me trying to get the pipes to slide in by working them in via circular motion probably created a leak.

That’s why I’m going to do vbands ASAP.

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I have a theory.

When the seasons change and the extreme temperatures are present, cars with issues start to break down.

Well, if you recall, the car ran hot that day in traffic sitting.

Heat kills electronics.

My battery went right after that.

New AC Delco battery in the car, on my way to work yesterday and my car stops charging the battery and goes in to (can't recall the exact wording) power save mode.

I look and the battery is just below 12v.

Soon after the battery light comes on in the instrument cluster.

Laptop crashed (probably from the heat as I shut off the AC), so I couldn't see anything in the log such as an intermittent issue.

Went out to the parking lot at work at random times and same issue, not charging.

Well, this AM I guess it was in the 60F range, got in the car, started it and it immediately started charging the battery.

I drove about 25 miles home no issues.

Log showed the charging hit just above 15.00v

I've read some cars has issues like this and it was some sort of inline sensor / regulator on the positive main battery cable.

Ever heard of this?

I know the battery is good (new).

Doubt the alternator is bad.

Has to be that sensor thingy, right? 

Anyone know the name and / or part number for it? 

 

 

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For sure heat is hard on electronics.   But does a Camaro charge a battery like a Tahoe?  They will turn off the alternator for a time, then turn it on.  Economy, they say.

Monitor the computer for inputs such as Voltage, any battery temperature, actual vs desired voltages, alternator output pulse width.

How was the "bad battery" tested?   A funny charging system could have cooked it.   (15.0 volts in the wintertime is OK, summer...probably too much by about .5 volt.)

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1 hour ago, Ashley P said:

For sure heat is hard on electronics.   But does a Camaro charge a battery like a Tahoe?  They will turn off the alternator for a time, then turn it on.  Economy, they say.

Monitor the computer for inputs such as Voltage, any battery temperature, actual vs desired voltages, alternator output pulse width.

How was the "bad battery" tested?   A funny charging system could have cooked it.   (15.0 volts in the wintertime is OK, summer...probably too much by about .5 volt.)

Drove it to work today, no issues. Weird...  :shrug:

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18 hours ago, Ashley P said:

(1.) But does a Camaro charge a battery like a Tahoe?  

(2.) Monitor the computer for inputs such as Voltage, any battery temperature, actual vs desired voltages, alternator output pulse width.

(3.) How was the "bad battery" tested?   

(4.) A funny charging system could have cooked it.   (15.0 volts in the wintertime is OK, summer...probably too much by about .5 volt.)

(1.) I have no clue.

(2.) All I see is voltage to log.

(3.) Never tested the old battery. That battery was from the 2009 build date on the car. It needed to be replaced regardless of my issues.

(4.) Don't think it cooked it. It only peaked at 15 volts for a short time. It spent the majority of the time in the 14 volt range. 

That said, drove it yesterday and no issues at all with the battery.

Only wire I touched was the red positive cable going tot he PCM and fuse box areas. It was routed over the top of the PCM on the edge and was really tight. Tight enough to break the plastic wire loom off and I'm sure it would have eventually rubbed in to the wire insulation.

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