JohnC

2010 Camaro SS

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What ATF is recommended?  I put in my first 6L80 E at work this week and Jasper recommended the Mobil 1  part number 112201.   Our parts source didn't have any, so we called the Chebby dealer.  That had plenty, and said the shop used it by the drum.  

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What ATF is recommended?  I put in my first 6L80 E at work this week and Jasper recommended the Mobil 1  part number 112201.   Our parts source didn't have any, so we called the Chebby dealer.  That had plenty, and said the shop used it by the drum.  

5b44610cc1860612151b2bff0c7d7bde.jpg

A lot of that ^

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So what are we talking about here...weeks?  Or maybe next week sometime?  I wanna see it makes some passes man and I know your dying to get it back.

Matt

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Ha Im pretty sure his junk would still walk me even on its worst shake down pass!  He's outta my league now and into Mike's.  I might get there one day with my DD (and my budget lol) but not anytime soon (see budget again)

Im just impatient for him is all.  I wanna see it all come to fruition and be awesome finally.

Matt

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You have slicks and a rear diff that can take it, I don't.

Look at the difference in the CTSV / ZL1 diff and axles compared to the SS. :yes:

Slicks are on the list, but I can't do it right now because I don't have the cash saved up to fix the rear of it breaks. 

It's mega bucks to upgrade. :meh: 

$6k just to go stock ZL1: https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/22959395/10002/-1 

And the real expensive setup:

Diff with driveshaft and axles: https://gforce1320.com/product/5th-gen-camaro-9-irs-kit/

 

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Its an auto.  Slap a radial on it, hit it soft out of the hole and let it eat.  Itll be JUST fine.  Building a 700+ HP car for the money you spent just to not want to play with it for fear of breaking stuff that costs money is either money not well spent or just being paranoid.  Look at it this way...whats it doing right now?  Sitting right?  And you didnt get to have fun with it even yet, right?  So why not (when its back together) have as much fun as you can with it, while being as cautious as possible, and then if it breaks and it has to sit some more, OH WELL!  At least you were using it for what you built it for...to have fun!

Or just buy a ZL1 and then beat the piss out of it!

Matt

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15 minutes ago, Nostalgic1 said:

Any updates?  Are you driving the car again?

Not yet and Michael is on vacation, too. 

What's done:

He has the converter and trans in and filled with fluid.

Driveshaft is in.

The trans cooler setup is flushed out and a leak fixed.

He has removed the 2nd catch can (Mishimoto) and re-routed the Mighty Mouse Catch Can.

What's left is.... 

The DSX auxiliary fuel pump harness was shipped off for an update and to be redone to kick the pump on at 4 psi boost instead 9 psi boost. That will probably take a couple weeks turnaround time. 

The off road and on road connection pipes are getting V-Bands welded in to make swapping them off and on for emiss tests faster and easier for me. The reason for that is, I had a really hard time trying to get those pipes off and on with the car on ramps in my driveway. The slip fit end opposite the header collectors were super tight and I had to work so hard to get them in that I created a leak on one side. If I'd had a lift and a garage, I doubt it would have been a problem as I could have slid them in straighter and had more leverage to push them in. 

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Until my junk broke, I didn't know these converters had to be measured for clearance. :no: 

I thought they were machined perfect to factory clearances since they're made to bolt to a stock trans and flywheel.

I don't get why they're not machined perfect. :shrug: 

My first Circle D that Diz installed went right in that I know of with no clearance issues. 

 

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In the vid above, the motor plate added clearance between engine and trans. An converter bolting to that engine would be pulled farther out of the trans.  Shim to counter act that.  There was much mumbo jumbo that I ignored, so maybe I missed something.

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Posted (edited)

On 8/1/2019 at 3:38 PM, JohnC said:

Until my junk broke, I didn't know these converters had to be measured for clearance. :no: 

I thought they were machined perfect to factory clearances since they're made to bolt to a stock trans and flywheel.

I don't get why they're not machined perfect. :shrug: 

My first Circle D that Diz installed went right in that I know of with no clearance issues. 

 

I wish they were. When I put yours in I measured and it was good with no spacer. I just put a Circle D into this TBSS and I had to put spacer in. It's a bit of a PITA, but worth the time to do.

The Circle D come with two different thickness spacers (washers) depending on how your spacing measures. I just use drill bits to measure the gap.

Edited by Disney
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8 hours ago, Disney said:

I wish they were. When I put yours in I measured and it was good with no spacer. I just put a Circle D into this TBSS and I had to put spacer in. It's a bit of a PITA, but worth the time to do.

The Circle D come with two different thickness spacers (washers) depending on how your spacing measures. I just use drill bits to measure the gap.

That's interesting! :yes: 

I wonder why after-market doesn't fit to factory specs?

There can't be that much variation on the OEM side, so it doesn't make sense to me that it would be difficult to make those converters fit perfect to be honest. :no: 

Does Circle D or anyone else ever explain why they're not to factory specs? 

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I'd be guessing, but I could see how GM would use the same trans with different depth bellhousing depending on application and the aftermarket just make one converter to fit teh trans and the shallowest bell, then just use spacers to make up for the deeper bells.

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That's interesting! :yes: 

I wonder why after-market doesn't fit to factory specs?

There can't be that much variation on the OEM side, so it doesn't make sense to me that it would be difficult to make those converters fit perfect to be honest. :no: 

Does Circle D or anyone else ever explain why they're not to factory specs? 

Easy answer stacking tolerances. Add the allowed tolerances together for the block mounting face, bellhousing, flywheel, crankshaft mounting flange, and both sides of the converter. Then you can see why there is a variance. And don’t forget tool wear in the machine and temperature of the material.

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Ehh, turns out the exhaust wasn't done yet, but everything else is.

He FB messaged me last night and told me he is waiting on a friend to help because it takes 2 to weld in the vbands.

He says Sunday it'll be done. 

I have my fingers crossed! :yes: 

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21 hours ago, mstrpth said:

your tires are probably dry rotted at this point :D 

I know, right....

Not got to enjoy this car much this year. :wall:

 

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