JRANGER

65 Coupe to Fastback "Phoenix"

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Well i just got an email back...It doesnt run, it just ran awhile ago but they havent tried in some time. Dry rotted tires...didnt mention rust etc....

Buttttttttttt

Im going to look at this sunday

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I like everything...My daily is now a 2017 dodge challenger

I loved my dads 85 Trans AM, my buddies dads 66 GTO.. muscle cars are the best.

Edited by JRANGER
Ashley P likes this

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Have the engine further disassembled. Still got a bit to go then im gonna clean it up and get it ready for the machine shop to hopefully just clean and hone it. 

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I did some more fitting on the front and im getting closer to be ready to start body work. 

I also used cardboard and tape off the taillight housing for the 69 cougar light. After a bit of thought i wanted to get a tailight panel for a 69 cougar to weld in but they are hard to find and expensive as hell. So im going to make fiberglass ones that way i can use the factory sealing to make them air tight. We will see how that goes

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also after talking to Matt a bit on finding the Unisteer manual rack on Amazon for $200 less then most sites i ordered it as well.. FYI, i decided against buying another car so im BUYING PARTS!! MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH

 

Theres 3 left if anyone else needs one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5ZMMSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

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20 minutes ago, Disney said:

I like the steering on Matt's car, but I do with is had a little quicker ratio. I know, hard to have that with manual, but still. I want to eat cake and have it.

 

There are a few out there with quick ratio. Namely TCP which is much more expensive but i also have my EPAS i built. So now i will have to cut this new shaft with this down to match the top with the EPAS but basically Power R&P without the engine congestion

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I completely agree with Disney, its awesome, especially compared to stock but DAMN you have to turn and turn and turn and turn.  When I had the ST with the quick steering ratio I would nearly die on every turn in the 66 and only hauling ass on the wheel kept me on this earth.  I can only imagine the entertainment for anyone who witnessed any of those turns watching me go to town on that little wood wheel.  Another reason why I wanna get a tilt column so I can put a bigger wheel back on!

Matt

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1 hour ago, JRANGER said:

There are a few out there with quick ratio. Namely TCP which is much more expensive but i also have my EPAS i built. So now i will have to cut this new shaft with this down to match the top with the EPAS but basically Power R&P without the engine congestion

Holy cow!!!  That TCP rack kit is as much as a whole MII front end!

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If I hadnt found the Unisteer rack for such a nasty deal I would likely spend the extra couple hunskies to get the 2.9 turns lock to lock that Steeroids offers!  I spent half as much tho so itll stay for a while!

Matt

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Well sometimes laziness pays off. I spent hours fitting the unisteer r&p today. Gribding the lip on the the lca bracket is recommended for the proper fit. No problem, however i had welded in a street or track camber kit for the lca. Its mimics the 67 style adjustment with locking camber plates...luckily i welded those in but never drilled out the lca bracket to match because i had to grind those back out as the bolt head was stick out to far to allow the r&p bracket to sit flush. 

So here i am 3 hours later finally with the bracket installed.. Lol

Now i have to call unisteer because i thought thr kit came with 67 and 65 outter tie rod ends and i need 67. Ugh..

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Well i have got the r&p installed, 67 tierods installed and so on. I now need to cut the steering shaft down to match up to my epas. Then i can do the finishing touches on it. Just with the tierods in loose it seems like it will be a great setup.

I also cleaned up the areas of the car when the panel bonding is and hit it with some eastwood 2k epoxy.

So maybe next week ill get it taped off and get the panels fit with filler.

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Spent sunday finally getting the door aligned right. Realized i need to push the whole front of the door up, so now its matched up to the fender properly, then a little inward on the top, and adjusting the door jam and its all lined up! Now i can really get going on the body work. 

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So ive been fighting with the drivers side fender to the lip area. Ive broke the welds loose and just keep havin problems. Its lined up at top and then gradually comes out as it curves. I had it and took my hammer and dolly set and started persuading it where it belongs. Naturally i didn't hit it extremely hard but it is much better now. It really helped in the beveled in section in the middle. 

Then i started using the evercoat lightweight to get things flush. 

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Posted (edited)

well 9+ hours into the day and i got a bit done.
First I taped off everything thing on both sides.

driver tape.jpg

 

passtape 2.jpgpasstape.jpg

 

 



Then i fitted everything and started to fill all the panels with evercoat and fit them back. I managed to get the drivers side completed and ready for adhesive. 
 

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After i removed the filled panels i had used a razor to cut the tape so i could leave tape where the panels wouldnt be.

panel tracing.jpg

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Anyone use 3m Panel bonding adhesive before? This is what is recommended for adhering the panels. What are the advantages over well screws?

Edited by JRANGER
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