Mike

What would you hypothetically build? Now with more CTS-V

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Beginning work on the brake cooling duct plates.

Cleaned up the spindle and threw it back on for measurements.

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Got some measurements and drew it up in cad.  I'll have a local shop laser cut the backing plate in 18 gauge 304 stainless.  The "appendage" hanging off the bottom is the incorporation of the factory shield that covers the ball joint boot from brake heat.  This plate will replace that part that is currently sandwiched between the bearing and spindle/knuckle.

duct plate.JPG

JohnC, ls1adam84, Disney and 3 others like this

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Brake ducts continued.

I picked up the laser cut stainless plates today.  Bent them to fit the spindle and they seem to work fine.  I could make the tube cut about 1/8" closer to the spindle, but these will work for now.

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And how they fit the rotor

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Next I measured for and cut some 3" stainless tube. and tacked it into place.  It won't get anywhere near the sway bar or shock at full lock.  The flex hose should clear nicely.

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And how it fits the rotor.

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Tomorrow I'll notch the tube where it meets the plate to open that up and build some fillers to close in the kicked up portion of the plate.

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JohnC, Ashley P, Cody and 1 other like this

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So awesome!  Im about to adapt some 2014 GT brakes to my 66 and it wont be able to run a splash shield...wondering if I should leave em off or make something.  Wont be anything near as awesome as your cooling ducts tho!!!

Matt

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Looks like im too late to comment on this, but....

In the road racing world what we do is make the tube so that it pushes air to the inside of the rotor hat and we block off the opening that would shoot right onto the rotor face. If you care, i'll shot some pics of mine when I get home.

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35 minutes ago, Disney said:

Looks like im too late to comment on this, but....

In the road racing world what we do is make the tube so that it pushes air to the inside of the rotor hat and we block off the opening that would shoot right onto the rotor face. If you care, i'll shot some pics of mine when I get home.

Someone else on the V forum commented that I don’t want to cool that inner brake plate because it creates differential temps from one side to the other.  Once I get back on this, I’m going to block off the part that is open to the brake plate and try to direct that air into the hat also.  The existing portion into the hat has more opening than it appears in the picture.

Disney likes this

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I'm going to do pretty much the same, just try to angle that baffle a little in the tube.

 

Someone else mentioned they get about one day of hpde sessions out of a set of the flex tubes.  What's your experience with that?  And what tube are you running.  I see SCEET, SCAT, CEET.

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You think doing something like this would help my brakes? I melt my brakes just driving to work. :D

At 33k miles, my pads are getting thin. Plenty of high speed stops up to 150 mph on these brakes. :lol:

IMG_3021.JPG

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13 hours ago, Mike said:

That’s not abnormal.  Mine look like that too even when I’m not hard on them.

 

Odd. Mine did that after some 140 mph stops. :lol:

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The brake vents aren’t there because the rotor gets too hot.  The problem is the pads get so hot they off gas.  Also the fluid in the caliper can boil.  Both those things make the brakes not work, pedal to the floor kinda stuff.  So the cooling helps prevent that.

As long as your brakes work, you’re good.  You aren’t going to melt a cast iron rotor.

66sprint6 likes this

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I love a good time lapse!

pointers:

I would cut that down to half the shots. maybe 1 every 5-7sec. Theres a lot of good calculators out there that will give you the shot count based on how long you want the vid to be.

its easy math, just based on your fps.

make sure your ratio is 16:9 - that will eliminate the black boxes on top/bottom.

a super easy trick to do is take the completed time lapse and slightly zoom in or out for the duration of the video.

Here's a very exaggerated example of that. skip to the 4:04 mark.

 

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3 hours ago, mstrpth said:

I love a good time lapse!

pointers:

I would cut that down to half the shots. maybe 1 every 5-7sec. Theres a lot of good calculators out there that will give you the shot count based on how long you want the vid to be.

its easy math, just based on your fps.

make sure your ratio is 16:9 - that will eliminate the black boxes on top/bottom.

a super easy trick to do is take the completed time lapse and slightly zoom in or out for the duration of the video.

Here's a very exaggerated example of that. skip to the 4:04 mark.

 

The gopro doesn't have options for most of that when on time lapse mode.  I can adjust frequency of shots, to .5, 1 ,15, 30 sec intervals.  I'll try that.  I still don't even have the right memory card to record decent video.

 

I don't get any option for ratio straight out of the camera.  I'll have to see what's available for free processing software.  

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