JRANGER

67 Mustang - Project Electra

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Got my auto city classics (Tomsclassics on ebay) rear disc kit installed...It was $250 and had a few gotchas. 1st you have to drill the rotors to fit flush for the countersink. Also it doesnt mention where to put the connector for the brake lines. Still have to bleed the lines. Did of course fill the rear with 2.5 quarts gear oil.

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JohnC and 66sprint6 like this

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I was able to get the brakes bled and of course they didnt have retainer clips for the parking brake lines. So i will wait to next week to get that figured out.

I also replaced the output shaft seal on the tail housing... Talk about a pain in the ***...Even after i bought a seal puller i bent that ******* several times before getting it out.  

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now im just irritated...i cant get the rear lines to bleed right. Soft pedal that firms up after several pumps but then you bleed the line and its soft again

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Well it got worse...So i decided to bleed out the master. SO i disconnected the line and ran a line to the rear bowl...well front bowl and pumped it til it seemed to be out of bubbles and such.....Now when i pump the brakes it will sometimes splash the hood... What the hell....Its not as soft but still cant get it bled out and on top of that my canister for my cheap harbor freight 1 person kit leaks so i guess im gonna have to take it to a shop to get done.

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Yeah, im going to try that...I have had a drip bottle in the master the whole time but ill lower the rear and try it that way. Ive been using a vacuum bleeder from HF....

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Ive bled the brakes in the 66 100million times and they always suck...till the last time I did it.  I started by doing a gravity bleed on each corner then went back around and would open the bleeder with a hose attached and the end of the hose in a clear bottle half full of fluid and I would slowly push the pedal down and watch the fluid.  If there was bubbles I would lift off the pedal and was watching the bubbles go back up the hose so I would let up, stop, push it in and move the bubbles slowly down the line in that fashion until they were gone.  Took a while and I went around the car a couple good times but it worked like a champ in the end.

Matt

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Hmm maybe a stupid questions..but if i didnt change anything on the front, do i still need to bleed them or just the rear?

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So i bought another project and it will be deliveted the week of new years

 

65 Mustang coupe  to fastback conversion. Comes with a ton of parts

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The fastback top is definitely from a 66 and earlier car, 67+ the fastback goes all the way to the end of the trunk lid and the trunk lid is part of it.

Matt

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I saw this on Vintage Mustangs.  Crazy project but if you can pull it off itll be very cool for sure.  Its been fun watching the other coupe to fastback conversion on there!

Matt

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1 hour ago, 66sprint6 said:

I saw this on Vintage Mustangs.  Crazy project but if you can pull it off itll be very cool for sure.  Its been fun watching the other coupe to fastback conversion on there!

Matt

yeah its been done you can even youtube a video and thats pretty much how im going to do it. Lots of supports, flat stock to make sure the windshield is set right, and i plan to cut the roof off and lay it on the back section and mark it to cut the top of the qtr to match how its already cut. Ill leave an edge and prob flange that to give it a nice section to spot weld to. Only thing that sucks is the back portion metal for the trunk are like $60 a corner

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So my other present to me was an eastwood 135 mig. Nothing too crazy but a major upgrade over my 90watt chicago electric flux core welder. Got it together today and tested...Much better looking welds in a couple tries over the flux

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yeah, its my first gas welder, got the proper mig gas mix and made sure to follow the directions and get the right gas pressure when pressing the trigger. Just did a couple welds to practice and make sure it was working properly. Way happier then the flux

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