JRANGER

67 Mustang - Project Electra

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202 posts in this topic

22 hours ago, Disney said:

That's pretty dope. I'd want to keep the stock handle at the up/down "switch".

Thats the only way Ide do it on the 66 but as it sits, the tracks arent all that great and ide end up breaking it so roller it stays with some assist from your other hand LOL

Matt

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New rear lines are all installed....

 

The Good: Fluid gets to the rear now and she moves and stops (Not sure how well and my drive way goes down hill)

The Bad: Still couldnt get pass side rear to bleed......All others did

 

So my rear pass side is prob bad but it doesnt leak. Its just me here today so all i could do was put a few blocks a 5 feet behind the tires and roll in R and stop and go forward and stop...Thats about as brave as ive got for now.....Im sure it needs bled more but i ran out of fluid and im not sure how well she will stop at higher speed....Pedal still seems a bit soft

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Well fluid gets to the Wheel Cylinder it just wont bleed out...They are old of course so i assume its the wheel cylinder...So i ordered a replacement, ill have to replace the rear brakes at some point but functional will be fine until then. Plenty of stopping power with the front until i get to that.

 

I just need to bleed it out better. Plus i found a leak in the drivers side caliper line so i tightened that up more so hopefully that fixes that

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Well today i took it to get aligned and had my wheels put on.

I asked for the following:
These specifications are in order of importance.

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster. 
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in


They could not get positive caster with my car. I do believe i have a 1" drop spring with the Shelby drop but have to verify.

This is what I was told and given:
LF CROSS RF
Camber -.4 -.4 .0
Caster 0 .2 .1
Toe .04 .08 .04



This is what they said:
1) Cannot adj caster any further positive on L/F so set R/F to match
2) Camber at Maximum Position
3) L/F wheel sits 1" forward over R/F


Now the car drives a million times better then when i took it in and im happy with the job they did but my question is this:

Why cant they get Positive caster on it? Is something wrong?
And my biggest concern..Why in the F does my L/F sit and if forward? Is that normal?

stang.jpg

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10 hours ago, JRANGER said:

no threads left on either side

Then there's your problem. Is the suspension original? Rebuilt? Replaced? Might need some of those fancy strut rods.

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brand new grab a trak, 1" lowering springs, shelby drop....roller spring perches and idler arm..used stock strut rods and sway bar. Perches are raised slightly with 2 shims/washers

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Other then the positive caster i think its good. It actually drives pretty **** good in comparison to anything ive had it do. Also i measured from the rear of the fender to the tire and its 4" on each side...So im guessing my fenders are weird

Installed my radiator today and it def seems like it staying cooler. It got up to 190 maybe 200 at one point but that was sitting in the garage and as soon as i hit the street back to 180

Ignore my zip tie, it wasnt sitting flush in the center causing the fan to rub so that was my solution

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13950570_10157252765900521_233169766_o.jpg

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I too have car ADD.  One day I want to put in a console as well...hell, my car was a console car but I sold it loooong ago to help fund the T5 swap.  Ill build a better one whenever I get around to it lol

Matt

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On 8/18/2016 at 7:35 AM, JRANGER said:

So as my adhd strikes again, started building a console now.

Notice the type of chaos that occurs when im doing such things...lol

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13925090_10157262759515521_6854506737414561373_n.jpg

Ehh, looks like positive productivity to me! :up:

It's good when you can harness the power of adhd like that. :love:

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13 hours ago, JohnC said:

It's good when you can harness the power of adhd like that. :love:

lol!   You should see the "to do" list I've got in my pocket!  lol

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Well i found a nice bin out if a 62 full size ford glovebox that did the trick for the box. Made a few adjustments and now i just need to get my lokar ebrake so i can adjust it to fit. I also ordered all the fiberglass to cover the box in. So hopefully i get started on that soon.

Added a relay harness and new light switch as well...Still, when idling there is still a bit of dimming...Makes me wonder about my alt

20160821_150845.jpg

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Thinking of this....

You ever consider building that out of fiberglass or carbon fiber?

Most difficult part is building the mold. Mold making aside, the rest of the process is as easy as putting icing on a cake to me.

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While ive never done molds i have done quiet a bit of fiberglass and that is what ill be doing with this box. Once i figure out the adjust ments for the Lokar eBrake handle (Which will prob mean cutting the cup holder part down to halfway across) then i will remove most of the wood other then the to front parts, stretch some fabric across and get it resin coated. Then i will proceed to lay some glass....I actually ordered a gallon of resin and a gallon of rage gold :)

 

 

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On 8/22/2016 at 6:54 AM, JRANGER said:

While ive never done molds i have done quiet a bit of fiberglass and that is what ill be doing with this box. Once i figure out the adjust ments for the Lokar eBrake handle (Which will prob mean cutting the cup holder part down to halfway across) then i will remove most of the wood other then the to front parts, stretch some fabric across and get it resin coated. Then i will proceed to lay some glass....I actually ordered a gallon of resin and a gallon of rage gold :)

 

 

Awesome! Great minds think alike, ehh? :D

That'll be a nice piece wen you get it done! :yes:

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If lights are dimming, check grounds all through, may also look at Voltage Regulator if external.

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