NukeWorker

My 1982 Toyota "Daily"

33 posts in this topic

So I got bored while working in Kansas and "needed" a winter 4x4 for the storms out there (they are not bad at all....they had deeper snow in East TN then we had those years)

 

so I picked up this truck:

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When I bought it (Decemeber 2012) it had a add-a-leaf lift on it and 5.29 gears with lunchbox lockers and some bumpers.  15x7 wheels with 33x12.50 tires.  The 22R had 260K on it.  but the AC still worked and I drove it 100 miles home with no issues other than speed.

 

First mod was some 63" chebby springs that came with the truck.

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Next I moved to the front for a "Rears Up Front" (RUF) spring conversion and high steer steering conversion.

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End result was pushing the axle 2" forward

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Came across a cage kit on CL locally that was new never installed so picked it up

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Then I cut the bed....15" or so off the back of the long bed

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Then after scoring some deals on NIB kits and a local transfer case I ended up with this...

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Stock 2.28 front crawl box.  4.7:1 gears in rear box with a 23spline conversion between the two cases

Then triple sticked (stick for each hi/lo box and a 2wd/4wd stick....I have 2wd lo lo now if I want)

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First time out of the garage under power in about 6 months:

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Dude, I love this! :up:

I got a 1991 Dakota Sport 4x4 that I plan to tinker with when I get the cash. It's a 318 V8 truck, so that makes it more fun.

Pics in here:

I'd love to swap in a 4BT Cummins or something comparable that's newer when I get a place with a garage that I can work in.

Anyway, thanks for sharing! :yes:

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I will post up the pics later but right now it is sitting with E-Lockers in both axles, front axle widened 6" with RCV axles  Tacoma rotors and 4 runner calipers (vented slip on rotor conversion).

 

Oh and I swapped in a 2002 Blazer 4.3 with the EFI and a R150 transmission with the t-cases rotated 10 degrees up for more clearance.

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This pretty much got me up to last winter.  I wheeled it at Chocolocco Mountain in AL with some friends then put it up for the spring while I worked an outage (I had the rear locker in but not wired up so was just spooled)

Housing mods for e-Locker.  Put a bracket on for a anti-wrap bar, rear armor, and a "truss" on the backside.

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I had issues with my front driveline coming apart on droop.  So this happened this summer:

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Total beef with 2"x.25" inner tube and 2.5"x.25" outter....about 30" of tube.....lots of steel in it.

 

Then I started a front axle build.  I had another e-locker I regeared with 5.29's and a pair of 3" extension sleeves (grind out weld on housing 

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Converted to Tacoma rotors (slip on vs press in studs from back side, vented, larger calipers)  Keeps my scrub radius low.

While the axle was out...

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Edited by NukeWorker
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3 minutes ago, JohnC said:

I assume that DS is only for low speed rock crawling? Is there anything on the market like that balanced for on highway and off road?

You are correct (I welded up my old rear when I did the dual cases from donor shafts and it was fine up to top end....50mph)

There are long spline options.....$350 for the long spline section before it gets welded in...rusty square tube.....$50.

 

I have plans to reverse my front leafs (shackles up front) which will make the axle walk backwards under droop so I won't need a long spline then.

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so while I had it apart for the axle build (had ends welded on by Hudlow so they could clock them and make sure It was true...then had a bad spline on one new axle shaft for another month delay)

I started the 4.3L swap.

I had picked up a 2002 Blazer 4.3 with harness and ECU (0411) for $200 outside of Wichita the summer before....then found a deal on a used AA bell housing to a R series transmission (AX15 for the Jeep guys).  Then a deal on a R150F transmission with a Marlin Crawler transfer case adapter to bolt up my dual cases.  I picked this route since a 22RE swap still involved a EFI swap, a different trans (I had a shitty oddball 5 speed), and not many good 22RE's out there so a rebuild would be in order (cam, compression, header, etc)  In the end I had $1000 in the 4.3 and trans parts....way cheaper than the 22RE was cost to do "right"  I was having a problem running faster than 50-55mph with the wore out motor on the 37's so I knew I was gonna need more power.

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SO plated the frame and dropped it in.  made some simple mounts up.

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Fits in pretty well.  Clutch fan fits.  piped it up to the stock radiator.

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Bent up some lines for a Power Steering cooler (also made up some fuel lines...bought a Mastercool flaring kit with AN dies and a 3/8" tubing bender)

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Needed a new transmission mount.  The new trans was 5" longer and I rotated the cases 10" to get the output up higher.

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used my dimple dies

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So the rear axle I swapped in months earlier had mounts for a anti-wrap bar but needed a frame mount....

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Edited by NukeWorker
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On 1/21/2016 at 11:01 PM, Disney said:

So glad Nick doesn't live any closer to me. NO telling what i'd be building.

 

I'd ready to see you do some diesel 4x4 swaps. :yes::up:

Since Cummins is the LSx of the diesel world.... 4BT, ISF 3.8, etc..... :hyper:

Say, you know where any ISF 3.8's or 2.8's are for sale in the USA? What do they run?

These? http://cumminsengines.com/light-commercial-vehicle

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On ‎3‎/‎5‎/‎2016 at 3:12 PM, JohnC said:

I'd ready to see you do some diesel 4x4 swaps. :yes::up:

Since Cummins is the LSx of the diesel world.... 4BT, ISF 3.8, etc..... :hyper:

Say, you know where any ISF 3.8's or 2.8's are for sale in the USA? What do they run?

These? http://cumminsengines.com/light-commercial-vehicle

you been watching to much diesel brothers.

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3 hours ago, mstrpth said:

you been watching to much diesel brothers.

Ehh, I have dreams.

Diesel swap the Dakota sport 4x4 and Coyote swap the GT.

Just need to win the lotto and l'll get started... :lol: 

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So the PE exam is over....I hope I passed.

 

So back  to the truck.  Found my issue with the motor not starting anymore (loose injector harness plug) and dug out my exhaust bits and the welder.

 

I just about have the new Y-pipe finished up (need to weld in O2 bungs, chop and install the flex joint, and weld out one v-band assembly)  I have a muffler here (crappy summit knock-off 2 chamber) and some 2.5" bends for the piping out the back.

 

Luckily the list is getting a little shorter on what needs finished (I am hoping that I have full exhaust and wired up O2's by the weekend)  I'll get some pics tomorrow once I have it looking all nice.

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Nice!

Is your transfer case like my Dodge (chain drive inside) where they say no (unless snow/ice) on highway use (because it can break?), or some kind of gear driven unit?

I'm worried I might stress my transfer case and break something, but not sure what will break first, the front axle or transfer case.  I'd really like to swap it out someday so it'll be more on and off highway friendly.

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9 hours ago, JohnC said:

Nice!

Is your transfer case like my Dodge (chain drive inside) where they say no (unless snow/ice) on highway use (because it can break?), or some kind of gear driven unit?

I'm worried I might stress my transfer case and break something, but not sure what will break first, the front axle or transfer case.  I'd really like to swap it out someday so it'll be more on and off highway friendly.

Hmmm... that could be eliminated with a sprag driving the front driveshaft output shaft.   Funny how GMC had that.... in 1953. (xm211) ;)

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40 minutes ago, Ashley P said:

Hmmm... that could be eliminated with a sprag driving the front driveshaft output shaft.   Funny how GMC had that.... in 1953. (xm211) ;)

Explain!

I'd really like to find a salvaged low mile newer Jeep Grand Cherokee and snag the AWD off it..... But I doubt I could afford what they'd want for it.

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When your truck moves forward and turns, the front wheels travel in a larger circle than the rear.  So, it's driveshaft needs to turn faster...hence the binding.  My deuce has a sprag (or something like a sprag) that lets the front drive shaft "over-run" (turn faster) when it needs to....no binding.   Of course, the "sprag" needs to be "shifted" to allow it to function the same with the truck in reverse.  Late model AWD systems typically just use a clutch pack that slips during turns, and can slip under load too.

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5 hours ago, Ashley P said:

When your truck moves forward and turns, the front wheels travel in a larger circle than the rear.  So, it's driveshaft needs to turn faster...hence the binding.  My deuce has a sprag (or something like a sprag) that lets the front drive shaft "over-run" (turn faster) when it needs to....no binding.   Of course, the "sprag" needs to be "shifted" to allow it to function the same with the truck in reverse.  Late model AWD systems typically just use a clutch pack that slips during turns, and can slip under load too.

Sorry I wasn't detailed enough in my previous post... Don't know why my post was so incomplete. :lol:

I get that the vacuum actuator locks both front axles (on my Dodge) when in 4wd and that when turning, one wheel wants to rotate more than the other.

My fear is one day it will break the chain in that transfer case, or the ring that locks the axles because I mostly use 4wd when going through the yard and through a deep ditch on to the street.

I'd like one day to replace all that old 4wd stuff for better that I can trust won't break and can be used on and off road. That's why I was asking him if his transfer case was chain or gear.

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the put a NP242 behind jeeps that is a full time case.  has a center diff you can lock out for 4hi and 4lo.

 

Mine is a gear drive unit though....Toyota are built pretty solid from the factory.

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