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And the cars came with Nomex suits in case of a rear end collision?  Seems like the sender would be prone to leaking in such case.....and Ford saved how many square feet of metal per car?   But I suppose that the GM trunk floors that rusted out weren't much better at that point. lol

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The sender on the stock tank was outside the trunk, under the tank by the rear end.  There has been debate about these cars being dangerous in rear collisions but there are ways to help make it safer.  I'm going to put up a divider between the trunk and back seat.  I also know of someone who had this Tanks Inc tank and was hit VERY hard in the rear and the tank stayed sound so she bought another when rebuilding what was left if the car.  Never make it as safe as the newer car but small things can be done to help.

Matt

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A divider sounds like a very good idea.  I agree, these new cars are WAY safer.  No contest at all.

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Yeah, Im gonna add the divider for sound dampening as well so win-win there.  Ive also got some 3 point seatbelts Im going to do up front, Im going to then put one of the old front lap belts in the middle of the rear seat and MIGHT even add some of those car-seat tabs.  A guy on Vintagemustangs did it and Im ALL about stealing that idea THO Im pretty sure the lap belts will be sufficient.  Thats all we did in my buddy's 67 and we had 2 car seats at a time going in that sucker...no problem at all!

Matt

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Got this pic from a guy on VintageMustang that did it.

Seat latch.jpg

Looked pretty simple, could easily mock it up by pulling the bottom of the seat and get your location then pull the back and weld it up.  Ill be pulling the seat back out again to do the divider whenever that time comes, we can get together and make it happen for both for sure!

Matt

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Spent most of the weekend getting the house and yard ready for the 4th but I was able to sneak out for a couple minutes here and there to work on the trunk.

Lines complete.jpg

Fuel lines are done, tightened up and the bulkheads are tight as well.  I wired up the pump and the fuel level sender and was working on the vent line but might have changed my mind on how I want to work it based on the experience of a couple others.  I also cut down one of the soft lines from the old pump setup and got it to fit between the after filter and the bulkhead for the feed line.  I have to cut down the return hard line under the car a couple inches and then add the AN fitting and Ill be ready to leak test.  I will then clean up and hit the top of the tank with one more coat of black and then move on to the false floor and getting the fuel gauge to read correct.  

Matt

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Yeah Ive been talking to quite a few people who are running the Tanks Inc or similar tank in a classic and getting as much feedback as possible.  I have a really good idea of what to do based on what a couple old drag racers are currently doing along and another member who put 40K miles on her 66 last couple years has copied it with good results.  I might holler at you over the next couple evenings and pick your brain on one minor detail tho.

Matt

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Since we did so much over the weekend to get ready for our 4th of July cookout, I took advantage of some free time earlier yesterday to work on the fuel system and try no to drown in my own sweat.

Got the soft lines shortened up and connected the hardlines to and from the motor to the bulkheads.

Soft lines.jpg

I then put a couple gallons gas in and tightened up any leaks I found.  Only one remains on the supply line bulkhead and its nothing more than an annoying seep at most BUT it needs to be dry so I ordered another Earl's fitting and will replace the leaky fitting when it arrives.  Otherwise the pump primes and all seems well!  

I also got the false floor started to protect the lines in the trunk on road trips.  Simple and effective.  Ive got a couple supports glued in to get the height where I want it and to make sure it clears the fuel lines.  Im going to add a couple more supports, glue them in and then go from there.  Most likely it will be covered with a mat of some sort so I probably wont worry about painting or covering it with anything.

Floor.jpg

Lastly, I set about installing the MeterMatch VR box to control the fuel gauge.  Early Mustang aftermarket fuel level senders are notorious for being absolute junk when it comes to accuracy.  This little box allows you to set the Empty, 1/4, 3/4 and Full tank marks by adjusting the needle at each setting and saving it.  Install was a breeze and setting it was even easier...tho a fairly long-winded process mainly because the needle is slow to respond to your input.  Filled up with 2 gallons and set my Empty setting, then added another 2 gallons and set my 1/4 tank setting.  Filled it up to 12 gallons and set my 3/4 tank setting and then another 4 gallons and set the Full level.  So far, Im genuinely impressed by this thing.  We will see how it holds up.  They make other versions that can control the other gauges in the cluster as well...would be really awesome for someone who wants aftermarket gauge accuracy but the stock look.  

MeterMatchVR.jpg

Matt

 

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Oh yeah!  Leak free, fired right up and the pump is muuuuuuch quieter.  Still need to finish the vent tube, add a couple more legs to the trunk floor and then figure out what covering I want to use.

While I was waiting on the fitting I moved on to the 3 point seat belts up front.  The kits out there are fairly universal so you have to do some tweaking to decide where you want everything and then make it fit.  I found where I wanted the lower retractors to sit and found the thickest steel I could to mount them to the floor.  Made for a supreme pain under the car, but cutting a flat in the washer, bending it to fit as flush as I could then welding the bolt to it ended up working out really nice and made mounting alot easier only needing one wrench.  I also welded the bolt that holds the retractor to the the mount for the same reason, ease of install more than anything.  Painted it all black and bolted it in with some of that strip caulk around the bolt that goes thru the floor to help seal it off.  I may put some seam sealant around it and hit it with some paint just to keep the rust away.

Lower brackets.jpg

  Bottom bracket.jpg

Lower installed.jpg

The upper mount was more of a paint to plan than anything but once I found the general area that worked for both ergonomics and safety I was able to cut down part of the threaded plate that the swivel bolts into, drill my holes and then tack it in place to hold it when the bolt isnt in place. 

Upper mount.jpg

Ive researched this to death and the general consensus on most forums is that this portion needs to be higher than your shoulder or you will crush your spine or dislocate your shoulder in an accident.  The only way to do so is to hang a "sash" from the roof and Im out on that garbage.  On a Fastback you can do it and it wont look out of place at all but on a Coupe, both windows front and rear roll down and there is no pillar or door post to make the sash look right.  It just dangles there and looks stupid AND the seatbelt rides on your neck unless you do something about it.  When I had the seats re-done I had the Fox Convertible shoulder hangers added so that I could do the belts this way and it be ok.  All Vert mustangs have the belts setup this way so Im good with it.  The mount is in a thick part of the panel so its super secure and after mocking it up, everything flows well and FEELS right when sitting in the seat "buckled up".  Will be MUCH better than the lap belts for sure.

I failed to get any pictures after those, but the belts are now ready for final install but I figured while the rear seat and panels were out I would toss some sound deadening back there to replace the factory stuff that has long since crumbled and been vacuumed up.  Very tedious stuff but Ill get it done eventually.  Layer of PeelnStick followed by some MLV mat should do.  Im also going to do the trunk divider and package tray while Im at it.  Hopefully once the back seat goes back in, I wont have to remove it again any time soon and can move forward from there.

Matt

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For sure!  You can hear it prime like normal then it pretty much gets drowned out by the exhaust...like it should!  Im going to look into the latch anchors once I get to where the seats are ready to go back in, we can get together and make it happen on both cars then!

Matt

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Sloooooooooooooow going.  I keep going down the rabbit hole on this one.  Since the seats, panels and crumbled worthless insulation is all out, might as well do this...and this...aaaand this.  The list is getting longer and longer.

The pans under the rear seats are in really good shape compared to the footwells! 

Couple small rust holes on the driver's side and quite a few holes here and there from Lord only knows what.  The rest was surface rust/pitting.  Ford appears to have put seam sealer on bare metal then painted over it so everywhere there was sealer...there was surface rust.  Scraped, wire wheels and vacuumed it all up and got to work.

Rust 1.jpg

Rust 2.jpg

I cut out the thin areas and holes and made some small patch panels.

Patch.jpg

I welded up all the oddball holes including what appears to be drain holes maybe...tho they lead into the rear subrame rails and after some hit or miss research, some cars have em, others dont and not one single replacement panel I could find had them.  They were used as vent window drains in fastbacks with tubes leading to them but nothing attached on the Coupe.  I welded it up but might drill it back for good measure I dunno.  Im gonna get back to work with a layer of PeelnStick along with the rear package tray, wheel wells and shock/rear end hump, put in some thin MLV and then put the seats back.  New rear speakers and package tray cover will be added as well as a new radio...that might work well enough to half way listen to some music on the way to Gatlinburg!  Slow going for sure but Im hopefully doing it right and wont have to touch it again anytime soon!

Matt

POR15.jpg

JRANGER likes this

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