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by the smallblock's low end grunt???  I hope the little one didn't notice you were sloppy drunk.  :) 

 

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This little motors grunt comes on much quicker exposing some suspension issues that  the turbo inline didnt.  The power on that motor came on hard but later on in the RPMs and the car didnt really seem to care.  The smallblock is all in much much earlier/quicker and it upsets the suspension.  Isnt a measure of how much power or torque the motor makes, but rather a measure of how little the suspension is willing to take before it throws a fit...and the car into the ditch.  Now...had I said this motor had the low end grunt of a Big Block, or GT500 or Hellcat, then Luke would be right to stand up outta his bouncer, walk over to me and slap me :lol: 

Matt

Ashley P likes this

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Got it all buttoned up and back on the ground this afternoon.  She runs and rides GREAT now!!!  She is as smooth as can be through every gear and tho it still hops pretty decent on a hard pull, its back to being much more predictable and appears to be less likely to get unsettled and switch lanes on you.  She pulls really strong through 3rd gear too, which leads me to my next project.  Finding a trans that has 3rd in it to replace the one I just destroyed :lol:  Turned around on 70S out here to head home and got on it.  1-2 went off clean, back end out slightly with a little hop and then on the 2-3 the trans let out a nasty BANGbangbangbangbangbangbangbang.  Pulled over thinkin maybe it was a driveshaft or even the motor but nothing hanging or dripping.  I fired it back up and was able to drive it home without issue.  Hats off once again to Disney for the super stout and solid tune.  Allowed this Exploder motor to make enough power to break a Wold Class T5 on the street and yet driveable enough down low to allow me to lug it home shifting 1-2-4 (which is a big deal with a TFS1 cam according to most Forum complaints lol).  Gonna track down another trans and get back to it!!!

Matt

JRANGER likes this

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lol! Glad to hear its running smoothly! Im still debating on what Trans will go with my 351. If i go t5 i know i have to go cable due to my power boost and ive already pulled out the z bar. On the other hand im lazy and just want to cruise so AOD seems likea  great choice

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First it was "smallblock low end torque", now it's "world class T5".   Going for the number one seed in the oxymoron tourney??  :D 

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LOL while this smallblock may not make Earth shattering low end (Trans Shattering on the other hand) its enough to make this little car get outta shape the way it sits and that will need to be sorted out.  There are "Non World Class (NWC) T5's and "World Class" T5's.  WC T5's in the 90's V8 cars were a bit stronger than others ad thats what Ive got.  Its also old and tho it doesnt have many miles, its been beat on.  First T5 that Ive ever broken, likely wont be the last.

Matt

 

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20 minutes ago, JRANGER said:

lol! Glad to hear its running smoothly! Im still debating on what Trans will go with my 351. If i go t5 i know i have to go cable due to my power boost and ive already pulled out the z bar. On the other hand im lazy and just want to cruise so AOD seems likea  great choice

Cable swap is easy and very very worth it.  The Z bar, as I found out too late, can be adjusted to be very good but the Cable swap is a pleasure to drive.

Matt

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6 hours ago, JRANGER said:

lol! Glad to hear its running smoothly! Im still debating on what Trans will go with my 351. If i go t5 i know i have to go cable due to my power boost and ive already pulled out the z bar. On the other hand im lazy and just want to cruise so AOD seems likea  great choice

I would not put any T-5 behind a 351.  They just won’t last.  I’d at least use a Tremec TKO 500/600.

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5 hours ago, Nostalgic1 said:

I would not put any T-5 behind a 351.  They just won’t last.  I’d at least use a Tremec TKO 500/600.

Those Tremec 3550's aka TKO's are tough as nails. I beat the piss out of mine and it did well. :yes:

They're basically a redesign of the old top loader 4 speed with a 5th (OD) gear from what I recall reading.

 

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Ide love to do a TKO500 or 600 right now but man o man is it a spendy swap.  Bell, fork, clutch, trans, shifter, crossmember, mount, driveshaft and I would have to raise the trans tunnel to allow it to clear (some crossmembers claim to lower the trans allowing room but there is debate on driveline angle issues)  :smirk:  

To do a 3550 would be slightly less expensive but still up there.

Rebuilding the T5 will be cheap, but how long itll last till it goes again would be anyones guess.  Building the T5 to hold to decent power is pricey but nowhere near as pricey as the other swaps so its likely that I will be looking at doing that or picking up a stronger T5.  Ive got some time to look into it all and figure it out tho!

Matt

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Agreed.  With all the killer t-5 parts out there it’s really tough to do a tremec swap unless you get a smoking deal on one.  And tremec parts are rediculously expensive.

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1 hour ago, Disney said:

Fix the T5. Put a few good parts in it. Fix the wheel hop issue and it'll likely never break again, unless you let Ashley P's brother drive it.

:word: 

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RIDICULOUSLY expensive is right SHEESH, and not really worth it for a motor that MIGHT see 300whp one day...and could see those numbers with the cash I woulda spent on the swap.  Wheel hop is definitely what killed it, she spun hard in 2nd the first pass I made up the road and spun, then got to hopping in 2nd when I shifted it and it went boom.  Some traction bars will be ordered shortly and MAYBE swab the Grab-A-Trac springs for some Eatons or other reputable, yet affordable option.  Ive got a line on a T5Z at the moment thats going for a song but I want to tear the current one down and learn a thing or two about it so I may end up putting some decent parts in it and then have a solid backup just in case.

Matt

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Wheel hop....I know a 69 GTO that wheel hopped from one "telephone" pole passed the next one.  Hooked at 55 mph.  Scared the POO outta my passenger.  But he didn't have a chance, he was just a.....Mustang boy.  :D 

Wheel hop is brutal.  I figure it's about like a clutch dump every hop.

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The one Ill hopefully be getting my hands on Friday is a couple hundred under that.  He knocked off some cash for the Bellhousing and shifter that was on it since I dont need em.

Ill be happy once I have it in my possession tho, till then it could disappear like a magical unicorn LOL  Then I can make the swap and tear into the other trans and do some learnin.

Matt

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Drove down to Atl and picked up the "Rebuilt T5Z" yesterday.  

Rebuilt T5Z.jpg

Couldnt check much before I bought it but it had the right bearing retainer, endplay was nice and tight and she spun without making any bad noised or clanks so I bit the bullet and brought it home.  Figured at the worst I over paid for a WC or maybe an older trans that was scrubbed down and called a "rebuild".  The second I got home I pulled the bearing retained and the input shaft out and verified that it does have the tapered bearing rather than the needles so it is a T5Z (or a Cobra T5 or at least rebuilt with T5Z parts). 

T5z Tapered Bearing.jpg

I noticed the light surface rust/discoloration which concerned me a bit but decided to call it a night.  Today I pulled it nearly completely apart to look over, prep it for a counter gear stabilizer plate from 5speeds.com and set preload to help handle future abuse.  To say that I was less than pleased when I finally got the top/shift fork cover off would be putting it lightly.  :smirk:

Rebuilt T5Z2.jpg

T5z cover 1.jpg

The rust is from the top cover not having a plug at the end of the shift fork shaft.  Ive hear some old old old T5s didnt have em, but Im pretty sure thats where the humidity got into the case and cause the surface rust.  I pulled the main gears out and rubbed the rusty areas down with some ATF and it appears to be nothing to worry about.  Absolutely no pitting on anything and everything spins free as it should including all bearings around it.  The shift fork shaft on the other hand is UGLY as were some of the other moving parts inside the case.  Nothing was gummed up or damaged enough to not move as it should BUT I was less than happy.

T5Z Cover 2.jpg

Check out how rough the shaft is where it rides on the case.  Its like this all over.

T5Z cover 3.jpg

I was about to start making a list of things to order in order to freshen up the rough parts but thought Ide check out the trans under the Mustang before I did so...and Im REALLY glad I did!!!!!

Trans out

WC T5.jpg

Pulled apart and other than the 3rd gear carnage...shes clean and looks minty fresh!

Carnage.jpg

Carnage 2.jpg

I pulled the 5th/R selector parts, shaft and spring out of the 66's old trans and put it in the T5Z as they were in MUCH better shape.  I will also be using the top plate and shift forks as they are also night and day better.

Cover comparo.jpgOld Cover 2.jpg

I will probably use my old tailshaft cover as well as it looks better and has a new tailshaft bushing and seal.  Thats as far as I got today.  While I wait for the parts to how up Im going to clean the T5z case out really well and then hopefully after I get the parts I will have done everything in MY control to make sure that the trans not only shifts decent but also lasts.  Here's to hoping.  I will say its been fun taking these apart and seeing what makes them tick.

Matt

 

Old Cover.jpg

mstrpth, Disney and Ashley P like this

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Let me attempt to encourage you about that rust.  Years ago my brother needed a 4 speed, I found a Saginaw for $50.  I was full of rust, much worse than yours.  I drained the watery fluid and installed it with new fluid, drove it a day, changed the fluid again.  He drove that trans for months with no problem.  Yours looks great by comparison.

66sprint6 likes this

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Ive read similar and was hoping that since there wasnt any pitting that it was only a top off with fluid and a couple shifts away from being just fine.

Matt

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