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12 minutes ago, 66sprint6 said:

You wanna 5 lug/disc swap the little 6??

Actually, there is a 4 lug disc swap available apparently tho I believe it uses a Chevy Cavalier caliper and rotor or something like that?  I see it from time to time on that 6 banger Facebook page.  Not a bad option if someone wants to keep everything fairly stock but still wants to be able to stop from time to time!!!

Matt

Yes and no. I mean i'd like to improve it right now, but ultimately its getting a new front end. But.. Thats probably years down the road. The smart man would get the Granada stuff from you and drop the 8.8 in the rear and 5 lug it.

 

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I wish I had done the disc swap earlier in the car's life really.  I locked up and slid through one too many intersections and finally had enough.  Same for getting rid of the glass jar master cylinder.  I broke one in my parents driveway and almost ended up in Main St before I was able to Fred Flinstone the thing to a stop.  Maverick dual master is an easy upgrade.

Matt

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13 minutes ago, 66sprint6 said:

I wish I had done the disc swap earlier in the car's life really.  I locked up and slid through one too many intersections and finally had enough.  Same for getting rid of the glass jar master cylinder.  I broke one in my parents driveway and almost ended up in Main St before I was able to Fred Flinstone the thing to a stop.  Maverick dual master is an easy upgrade.

Matt

I had the single master go out on me in my 66 F100  as i got off i65 to OHB. Going down hill as a light turned red...Lucky for me no one was at the light because i blew right through that bad boy. That was scary!!!!!!! Never again!!! Dual Master all the way!! 

You can get a power dual master off ebay for like $200.

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I once ran with the vacuum disconnected from the booster.  I had to PUSH to get it to stop, but no biggie, right?  One day after outrunning blue lights I came up to a stop sign and the pedal dangled.  Zero warning.   I had deformed the hole in the pushrod from pushing so hard and it fell off the pedal.  Big example of Grace.  Also nobody was coming and I just crossed the busy road.

Edited by Ashley P
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WTF?!?!?!?!?!

WTF 2.jpg

WTF 1.jpg

Topped off the oil after my last fiasco/moron moment and decided to fire her up real quick.  Oil pressure started to build like it should, then shot up to 75psi super fast, heard a loud shreaking noise and pressure dropped immediately to 0 and my friends started yelling to cut it off.  Fearing the worst, I consulted with Disney, who ran over quick to try and get to the bottom of things.  Luckily...it appears that it was nothing more than a faulty oil filter, but Ive never encountered anything like this before!!!  It came apart clean from the base.  SHEEEESH!!!  Another 4-5 quarts of oil on the garage floor...whats that, 7-8 total now???  

She runs perfect now, makes good pressure (better than before pulling the pan) and only some drive time will tell if the pickup issue is solved.  Hopefully Im done dropping oil on the ground for a while and I can start cleaning up my mess.

Matt

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A long time ago, I had a fram filter bulge around the gasket and blow a few quarts on my moms driveway.  I was my first beater car and I had put 20w50 in it and it made 100psi cold.  It happened when I was letting the car warm up in the morning.

 

That's a pretty good one though, I've never seen one completely pop the whole seam.

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I've had 2 bosch filters fail on my 07 Tahoe. oil pressure just dropped to zero. never saw anything physically wrong with them. I stick to mobil1 now without any problems.

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Ive been using FL1A filters exclusively for my entire driving life on the 66, BlueCoupe, F100, F150 and now the 66 again.  Ive never had an issue in the past so this was a new one for me.  Luckily it was pretty obvious what happened fairly quickly and it happened in the garage rather than out on the road.  That and it happened where I had already dumped a couple quarts of oil previously so I only have one giant mess to clean :lol:  Thanks again to @Disney for swinging by to help check the vitals before firing it back up again to make sure all was well!

Matt

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I've only heard one other story like that and it came from a guy who bragged about improving the tolerances of his SBC oil pump.  Then he built 100 psi and the filter blew off.  If you think you had 75, could it have been more?  Relief valve stuck?

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Disney thought the same about the relief being stuck open but when we primed it with a drill the gauge showed 60-62psi solid.  Fired it up and it read just north of 50 and seemed good to go.  This is a standard volume, brand new pump so I dont know what the heck was up but if the relief was stuck open it appears to have been cleared.  Crazy.

Matt

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Took advantage of the nicer weather and took the 66 out to a family get together this past weekend.  Ran ok, didnt feel quite as peppy and theres a not so nice vibration throughout the RPMs as you go.  Didnt pay much attention but then it started to buck in 3rd a bit.  When I got to their house I noticed (checked on a hunch) that the #8 spark plug wire was just laying there.  Its a BITCH to get snapped in place and I had failed to do so.  Waited till it cooled and snapped it in place and took it for a fairly rowdy spin.  While out the fabled wheel-hop that Disney was telling me about rared its nasty head and I heard some loud banging under the car.  Still didnt feel as quick as I remembered but oh well.  Next day I took some advice from Disney and checked to see if any other plugs were having issues.  Come to find out, #8 and #2 were both completely loose and #3 was also not sparking 100%.  Ive since removed the heat sleeves and made for damned sure that every single plug boot was secure and in place.  Took it for a drive and the vibration is still there, and its motor related not drivetrain after some testing, but the power is definitely all back!  I nearly killed myself tho and suspect that something is not quite right in the rear suspension...or my shorts :3gears:

At this, the bucking and popping that was before only happening in 3rd started happening in every gear around 2500 rpm or so.  I stopped by Disneys for some datalogging and let him see what it was doing first hand and were putting our heads together as we speak on the fix...meaning he is looking into it and Im patiently not burning the car to the ground till he tells me the fix. :lol:.  

Hopefully we can get the Megasquirt happy, then I can move on to the damned vibrations.  Was hoping it was the balancer but after checking it out with a piston stop in hole #1, its spot on and hasnt spun.  Was also hoping having all those dead or weak cylinders was the culprit but it doesnt appear so.  Trans may have to come back out to see if something came loose or if its the dreaded (and only just now heard of by me) Centerforce Dual Friction vibration issue.  I want this thing smooth as butter and I dont think its too much to ask for!!!! 

Before I go much further I will also need to get it in the air and address the rear end issue as well.  I can see on the driveshaft where it is wearing itself on something in the tunnel, most likely the E-brake brackets or something which means the pinion is climbing WAAAAAY too high.  I wont go WOT again till I find out what caused it to change lanes on me like its never done before.

Matt

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To make the mud even clearer, fired her up today after making for damned sure that all the plug wires were good and secure and she runs smooth but was making one HELL of a racket along the back of of the motor.  Seeing that its a $300 junker I just said hell with it and let it run.  It cleaned up over time and I took it around the block to see how it was doing.  1) the clutch feels SUPER soft now and engagement was back closer to the floor which is strange as nothing was touched with the cable or clutch etc.

2) The Vibrations are completely gone from idle till about 3000 rpm where they come on strong and annoying

3) The danged crank sensor issues appear to be gone.  I TRIED to make it act up and it didnt car, pulled hard through every gear and didnt seem to care.  

Other than the stupid upper RPM vibration, it ran nice.  Im gonna do a little more rooting around and see what I find...or drive the hell out of it and let it sort itself out :lol:

Matt

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Yeah none of this makes sense.  I'm sure it'll be different again the next time out lol.  Nice thing is it's driveable and once the suspension/safety issues are sorted it'll be fun to drive again.  I'll figure the vibration out one day, but so long as it's quick, goes straight and keeps running strong the rest can be sorted.

Matt

 

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That just figures. First time something goes wrong everyone blames the EFI. Nevermind the loose weights flying around the pressure plate! Oh no.. It's probably the mass air meter!

66sprint6 likes this

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Ha, not in this thread!!!  Bout the only thing consistent is, whether on 8 cylinders or 6 and a half, whether vibrating down low or up top, blowing out oil filters, clogging up oil pickups, rattling from God knows where, and other than the crank sensor hiccup, (in other words, despite ME) it runs like a RAPED APE, puts enough power down hard enough to piss off the suspension and tires and never once has stalled out, never once has failed to start when asked etc.  I think the tune is the only thing sorted on the whole pile and thats the only thing keeping me going...I know once all the other crap is together, the tune will be there to make sure it stays perfect!  Hell, if the only way to get it smoothed out ends up being to pull the bottom end out, have it balanced and gone through again, ide HAPPILY do it knowing the tune was there to make it rock solid and ready to go.

Matt

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Most of what I read when digging into the vibration is "U joints shot" regardless of the fact that its clearly stated that it happens sitting still in neutral, in motion, clutch in, clutch out etc lol.  Then its immediately "a miss".   Only after those two are shrugged off completely do the balancing issues seem to come into play and often after checking both ends off the list...the inevitable "a complete rebuild and balance did the trick" ends the thread.  And thats IF the OP even came back to update the thread in the first place.  Most often you get to the end and its crickets.  WHAT DID IT END UP BEING!!!!!!!!!!!!  Its like watching Unsolved Mysteries without the "UPDATE" at the end!

Matt

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My friends C6 corvette (built motor, big cam, nitrouse etc.) had an odd vibration that never went away.   It started after we did a third clutch upgrade, some nitrous upgrades and other little things.  We just assumed it was the clutch that caused the vibration..  We had it out 3 times and couldn't find anything wrong with it.  He finally just said forget it and drove it and raced it a little that year and the vibration never went away, but he got over it.  At the end of the year, we decided it was time to upgrade lifters.  The new lifters required custom pushrods.  We planned to pull the clutch again and send it back to the manufacturer to be checked after the lifter swap.  But for some strange reason, the lifters and pushrods seem to have fixed it.  We have no explanation why the lifters did the trick.  They didn't change from before the new clutch.

 

Moral of the strory:  It's Disney's fault.  He was the last to touch it.  That's always how working on other peoples cars goes.

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2 hours ago, Mike said:

 

Moral of the strory:  It's Disney's fault.  He was the last to touch it.  That's always how working on other peoples cars goes.

Imagine touching a dozen cars a week.  Yup, I know it's Disney's fault!  

 

Vibration diagnosis:  are you sure it's exactly engine RPM related?   I've used a sirometer by http://www.treysit.com/9.html  to identify the speed of the offending part.  Of course if it turns out to be engine speed it's serious (assuming the "balancer" is good/correct and all cylinders are firing/making power equally.)  (Have you considered a weak cylinder?  That would generally make a more pronounced shake with more load. A rough idle due to a large cam might mask a weak cylinder at low rpm/load.  Maybe.  My brain's tired.)

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ITS DISNEYS FAAAAULT!!!!!

 

That it runs so damned well!  Everything that is messing up...ends up being stuff I worked on lol

The 66 had a nasty vibration that was tied to the lifters and valve adjustments.  It smoothed up considerably but never quite went away.  The lifters are the originals, pushrods are aftermarket due to some clatter with the stock length setup.  If the noise in the rear of the motor ends up being a tired lifter, Ill pull the lower and toss some new ones in. 

From what I can tell on this motor, its RPM dependent and is fairly smooth (as smooth as that bottom end could ever be I imagine) and then it gets a super fast vibration that feels how the motor sounds at that time if that makes sense.  It does it sitting still with no load the same as under load accelerating down the road or cruising along steady.  Im gonna put some miles on it then would like to do a compression test and see if any of the holes are lazy.  Ive got a lead on a brand new factory balancer that was a take off from a Ford crate exploder motor for half what Ide pay for a reman at any local parts place.  Seeing that its so cheap Ill likely snag it and toss it on JUST to be sure (would hate to find out down the road that it was the stupid balancer this whole time).  Im pretty certain its not...pretty sure its something in the bellhousing area OR worse case, one of the mains not playing nice but wont hurt to put brand new OEM parts on.  

Matt

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