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Weather was good, car actually ran really really well all the way to the show, opened the dump valve just up the street and cruised to my parking spot with everyone staring at me.  Got a TON of mixed reactions from that one.  Older "purists" wondering what was broken on my car to make that noise and younger folks knowing exactly what it was.  

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Met quite a few fantastic people who had cruised their 60's 6 banger cars from as far as Pennsylvania and New Jersey which was amazing, got to pick apart a few nice cars for ideas on what to do next as well as talk to quite a few people about the turbo setup.  Was also cool to see a T code Fastback for the first time (white next to mine).  Would have liked to have been able to move from there to the Goodguys show but we stayed too late and had to hurry home for a family dinner.  

Ended up breaking down in Smyrna and again in the Boro on the trip home but eventually got it into the garage under its own power and didnt have to walk anywhere which + win in my book.  Car would sputter and die.  Pulled over and the fuel pump sounded funky.  I have a full fuel bowl so I figured even if the pump was acting up I should be able to fire and run till the bowl emptied so I checked spark at the coil and wasnt getting any.  The MSD box and the coil were both blazing hot.  Minute or so later, spark was back and she would fire right up and go.  In the process I noticed the coil post on the distributor cap was loose and could nearly be pulled free from the cap with little effort.  Reminded me how old most of these parts are so new cap, rotor, plug wires and coil are on the way.  Im going to re-route some wiring, check the Alt wiring and make sure nothing else looks suspicious then hope that its happy again.  I wont hold the last minute hiccups against her. it was hot as hell all day and it rocked down the interstate at 75mph with me and two others and a full trunk and didnt think twice till then!

OH...and another small victory, not a single drip, drop or streak of a leak of ANYthing after the day of driving.  That...is...a MIRACLE for me and this car!!!!!!!

Matt

 

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When I first had the T5 swapped in place of the wounded C4 I had to source some pedals and linkage etc to make it happen.  I then had a shop put it all together for me.  The stiff clutch issue Im battling today has been the same deal since day one and tecnhically the only part not replaced along the way has been the Pressure Plate (which I believe to be the culprit) and now the pedals/hanger assembly.  I had them put in a roller bearing kit for the pedal shafts but I remember WAY back that the pedals fell out of the dash twice if I remember right and the shop had to tweak and fix it numerous times before it was any sort of reliable.  Things have gotten way smoother with the addition of a better throwout bearing, new clutch fork and especially with the recent mods to the Z bar and linkage but the pedal still has not only the hard spot but also when slowly working it back and forth, theres a groan or a grumble to it.  This paired with the fact that the previous shop has spaced the clutch pedal from the hanger 1/2-3/4 inch with fender washers has led me to bite the bullet and pull the pedals out to see whats up.

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Pedals out.

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It appears to be a Scott Drake pedal bushing kit as they are sealed bearings with a snap ring holding them in.  When I got the pedals out I noticed some crud inside one of them that appears to be plastic from one of the old bushings but while removing it with my pinky I realized that one of the bearings is siezed up completely.  The other spins but with some slight resistance.  You can see on the pedal shaft where the shaft was riding on the bearing race rather than the bearing doing the moving.  Im going to pull the hanger and probably start completely over now that I have the tools and know-how.  Im also going to look at replacing the pedal shaft while Im at it.  At the end of this I will be able to know that everything is new and as right as I can get it!

Matt

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Got the pedal support pulled in no time (not sure why all the whining online about how hard/tedious/annoying it is) and found a couple issues.  The left bearing is not only seized up, but when I finally worked it free, it may as well have been a square lol.  It would roll but not without a decent amount of pressure and then it would hit a "lip", go over it and lock up.  With a good deal more pressure it would go back to a section that would allow it to rotate and then hit another lip and flat spot.  Also, the bearings themselves are not straight with each other making it a pain to get the clutch pedal shaft free but they are also not spaced correctly either.  If you look at the picture, the left bearing (top) is pushed further into the inside of the support than the other.  These are supposed to be welded to the outside of the support walls providing the proper spacing for the clutch pedal, brake pedal and the shaft pin.  This is why they added so many washers to space it out.

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Rather than mess with it, I hunted down another unmolested support and will do the bearing swap myself this time.  Anyone with an auto could use this support as the brake pedal was used to space the bearings and will work great but I wouldnt let anyone with a manual use it.  I cleaned up the pedals and hit them with some rust primer and then the parts that show with some black.  I swapped on some new pedal covers too while I was at it.  No more clutch pedal cover falling off randomly due to the rubber being toast!!!

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Another silly thing I did, just because it was out of the car, was mod the drivers side fresh air duct.  My big left foot and it were mortal enemies and the only thing that seemed to remedy it was to kick the hell out of it and then eventually take a hammer to it to get it somewhat out of my way.  I had to remove it to get the pedals out so I cut the bent and mangled excess off the bottom, moved the "cap" with the air hole up as far as I could and still allow the flapper to open and then added a small scoop to redirect the air to my legs rather than directly at the floor.  

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I mocekd up back in place and it appears that it will play nice with my clutch foot.  If not, the little scoop is only tacked on in a couple spots so I can remove it if necessary.  Waiting on the new bearings and pedal support to come in and then I should be back up and going again.  

Oh, I also pulled the rubber fuel line going to the carb and am working on replacing it with braided line and running it to the intake side port on the fuel bowl.  All for insulation purposes.  I also tossed the rubber hose vent extension I was running and put in some brake tubing.  After I get it all together I will attempt to get the tune where Im happy with it and then really would like to start looking at WOT/boost tuning.

Matt

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Got my replacement pedal support in.  Someone put in the time to put some new bushings in...shame cause they are worthless to me.

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Pot metal bushings removed and bearing collars welded in.  Did my best to do short sections and move around and managed to NOT warp either collar!

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Inner washer tacked in place and ground flush.  This is simply to keep from 1) forgetting them entirely and 2) not having to fiddle with them under the dash.

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Did the same with the little washer on the clutch pedal shaft.

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Checked my clearances, made sure everything fit perfect (and it did...first try...which baffled me lol) and adjusted/bent the clutch pedal arm to where both pedals are now even and everything appears to be spot on.  The clutch pedal now swings nice and feely where on the other support with the siezed bearing the clutch acted more like the brake pedal, it would swing just fine but not by gravity alone, you had to push it.  Tossed some paint on it to protect it and will be putting it all back under the dash soon.

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I SHOULD be able to completely rule out everything but the pressure plate as the source of my sore left leg after this.  I even bought a new assist spring just to make sure its up to snuff.  Gonna do my best to make sure all the angles and pivot points are lined up as best as I can get them on the z bar again then see what happens.  If nothing else, I at least know its new, done right and near bulletproof.

Matt

 

 

Disney, ls1adam84 and JohnC like this

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Looks good and sturdy! :up:

I'd imagine the only weak link will now be the clutch cable itself now if anything isn't lined up right or the cable is worn.

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No cable here, all mechanical linkage which I just replaced with parts I put together using heims joints and solid rod.  Adjustable upper rod between the clutch pedal and the "Z bar" pivot set to factory length, strengthened the pivot so the arms have NO chance of tweaking or bending, then an adjustable lower rod from the z bar to the clutch fork.  Clutch fork is brand new recently replaced as is the throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch disk, resurfaced flywheel and resurfaced pressure plate.  Every single thing from the clutch pedal to the trans is new including all bushings, bearings down to the boot over the clutch fork, the boot in the firewall on the clutch rod and hell even the pedal covers LOL.  Now, once I make sure everything is straight and there is no binding, the only culprit left will be the pressure plate itself and I will either 1) continue to live with it or 2) pull the trans and get another pressure plate.  Ill see how everything feels once I get the pedals back where they belong!  This has been fun work tho so Im enjoying it.  I NEED to get the damned carb dialed in but Im not having fun doing it so once I get done checking some of the more fun items off the need list, Ill get back to making it run right.

Matt

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Pedals back in and they swing nice and smooth.  I havnt adjusted anything and dont have the helper spring or the pedal stop in yet but everything went together real easy which was nice.  

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Matt

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Posted (edited)

nice work , I am having to do this in the Falcon soon.

I will just be useing a cable instead of a z-bar

 

Edited by dr.art

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Super easy work using Mustang Steve's kit and directions.  He also has a cable pedal setup you could look at to make your own.

Matt

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I went from another bearing kit that was not installed properly to this kit and the difference is night and day.  I cant imagine the difference between a wore out cast bushing and a properly installed bearing kit!  With as easy as it is to put together and as affordable as it is, I cant imagine ever having it any other way!

Matt

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1 hour ago, 66sprint6 said:

Super easy work using Mustang Steve's kit and directions.  He also has a cable pedal setup you could look at to make your own.

Matt

thats what I was looking at buyimg

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Couple updates since last posting.  Roller setup is in, even tossed a roller bearing on the engine side mount for the equalizer bar to make everything as smooth as can be.  BIG improvement, its amazing BUT the damned pedal is still stiff as hell.  I tried it without the under dash helper spring and it felt pretty much like I had done nothing at all to the setup, felt exactly the same as before.  Put the spring back in and it made the pedal lighter before and after the pressure plate engages but its still stiff at that point.  I can live with it till I sort out what to do bout the pressure plate (if anything). 

I replaced the coil, cap, rotor and plug wires after the 6 banger show due to the stalling issues on the way home but it didnt fix the issues I was having.  I used the time to address the fuel line placement which I wasnt happy with to begin with.  Moved it to the inside of the carb, ran it down the intake along the valve cover and to the steel line at the firewall using 6an braided hose and fittings.  Ran it around the block and it ran pretty decent but not as well as the day of the show.  Fiddled with the idle air mixture some which bugged me because it was nearly spot on before and I had to make some drastic changes to get it right again (red flag).  Took it out for a quick spin and it stalled out again couple miles down the road.  Fuel bowl was full to the top (making it appear empty thru the clear sight plugs) so I set about to clearing the flooded carb and trying to get the float level down enough to get it home.  Took a while but I got it back, took it apart and found two issues right off the bat.  1) Pulled the needle and set and found a chunk of something or other in it.  2) The float was heavier than I remember last time I had the bowl apart.  Pulled it out to look it over and found this little crack in the back:

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Couple days sitting on the bench waiting for replacement parts to come in and it has dried out and lightened up.  New one is in, needle and seat cleaned up, new oring added along with new adjustment hardware and gaskets.  Waiting on some metering block gaskets to show up and itll be back together.  Im 100% sure that was my issue all along, trash in the needle and seat caused fuel to push up thru the vent tube flooding out the carb BUT Im gonna continue addressing the potential heat issues while Im at it.  Wont hurt anything, especially with this ethanol fuel boiling at lower temps.  I put a thermal sleeve on the fuel line where it runs near the heater hoses and intake, ive got a phenolic spacer on the way to go between the carb and the aluminum adapter on the intake and I finally got around to wrapping the downpipe where it runs under the intake.  

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Turbo blanket for the exhaust housing is on the list as is having the header ceramic coated but Ill do those things later this year probably.

Matt

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(Photobucket is a pain in the rear, if it isnt fixed by Monday I will be moving on I guess so mind the mess till then).

VICTORRRYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!  Been chasing the stiff, on/off nature of the clutch since I first put the manual in the car over 10 years ago and NOTHING has made it go away.  Got to talking with a fellow inliner on Vintage Mustangs forum and he was having the same issues with a stock Fairmont pressure plate which ruled out going that direction as a fix.  He noticed that the Fairmont and Fox Mustangs had longer clutch forks than the 60's Mustangs so he extended his and it helped quite a bit.  Taking that nugget of gold to the garage, I flipped the lower clutch rod to the other side of the Z bar arm and let it push into the hole that the return spring used to mount which is a little over an inch further down the fork than before.  The clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there and I barely touched it!  With success in sight, I pulled the under dash "helper" spring out WITHOUT killing myself or suffering a concussion and the pedal was smooth as butter all the way through the throw.  Still requires more pressure than any newer car out there BUT the on/off feel was completely gone and you can smoothly engage and disengage it without fuss.  I was looking around for the old fork so I could combine the new and old to make a more permanent solution but decided to check into a hunch before pulling out the cutting tools and welder.  I did EVERYTHING I could to make sure the clutch rods and z bar were smooth, straight as can be and everything was as level as possible so as to try and take advantage of the correct geometry that the factory engineers came up with and worked for so many.  What I DIDNT have a good view of was how level the lower clutch rod was to the ground or the stance of the car itself.  I crawled under and saw that the rod was really low at the z bar mount and high at the clutch fork which is nowhere near level at all.  Even with the clutch pedal pushed in completely it was still off.  I pulled it apart and mocked up the lower rod in a hole further up the z bar mount that was previously used to hold that same return spring to the z bar and put the rod back in the stock location on the fork.  Perfection.  Pure perfection...or at least close enough for me to feel like a champ!  Drilled the hole out to accept the new hardware, moved my recently welded bracing, rewelded, painted and mounted it all back up and it feels wonderful.  

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I am close to having it all back together again enough to get it back on the road, then time will tell whether or not Ive got it licked but from what I can tell, the clutch still has plenty of movement to engage and full disengage properly and it feels like it should have all along.  Sometimes it takes me 10+ years to sort something out...but when I do, it certainly makes my day!!!  My left leg will be SO much less sore in Shades of the Past traffic from here on!

Matt

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13 hours ago, 66sprint6 said:

(Photobucket is a pain in the rear, if it isnt fixed by Monday I will be moving on I guess so mind the mess till then).

Matt

That's why I upload directly to the forum. I don't trust outside photo hosting.

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5 hours ago, JohnC said:

Nice!

I didn't realize you've been working on this thing for 10 years. Wow! :stare:

 

Ive owned the car since I was 13/14 so in one way or another ive been fiddling with it for nearly 20 years!  The manual swap was done 10 years ago and Ive been living with the notchy/stiff/on/off clutch engagement since then!

57 minutes ago, Ashley P said:

So, did your pedal stroke change?

Its noticeably different for sure BUT I havnt been able to drive it and feel the engagement point just yet or make for 100% sure that the clutch engages and disengages fully BUT I pushed it back and forth in the garage telling kathleen to let off the clutch pedal quickly in 2nd and the car would squeak the tires to a direct stop.  I should be able to fire it up here soon and then the real test can be done!

Matt

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5 hours ago, JohnC said:

That's why I upload directly to the forum. I don't trust outside photo hosting.

Yeah I post to multiple forums for multiple hobbies so I just put it all on Photobucket to be able to post from one central place.  It was all good till this recent BS.  I even went on a paid for the mid grade upgrade figuring that I have SO MANY pictures on there, might as well chip in and pay but then I noticed that only the damned $40/mo plan allows you to post them on other forums.  Now I have to figure out how to get them off of there and put them somewhere else and go about rebuilding my threads if I even can do so.

Matt

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