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Yeah I found it online along with the next number in line "DS 1097" So I bought em both and gave the "97" tag to my buddy who has a 67 Coupe.  


 


2012-09-08_10-16-19_420.jpg


 


Kinda cool I thought.


 


Well, the ******* wont stop whistling now under vacuum.  I used an entire can of carb cleaner last night to NO avail, checked every crappy vacuum line I have (need to clean that up pronto) and have 0 vacuum issues I can find.  Idle is rock solid as is the vacuum at idle, but it appears to be whistling through the butterflies in the carb.  I am going to pull the carb apart tonight and make sure all my gasket surfaces are flat and replace all the gaskets.  Ill blow out the carb again as well while Im at it.  The carb sat with the hat off for a while while I worked on the valve seal swap so Ill make sure nothing is floating around that shouldnt be.  Hoping I can nail it down cause its LOUD and annoying as hell.  Also gonna order up a new balance here shortly.  Ive had to make new timing marks on the one I have 2 times now so its way overdue.  Was hoping to get it to the Cruise In tonight but thats lookin like it wont happen.  Oh well, next week maybe!


 


Matt


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Cut some new carb and adapter/spacer gaskets, redid the entire vacuum hose setup and got her running again this weekend.  Runs like a top, no more whistling except when I tell it to do so lol and she stays nice and cool even on a 90+* day.  Ran into a couple issues on the shakedown run and had to cut it short and come home, neither of which should be overly hard to fix.  


 


1) Wierd vibration around 2K rpm that makes driving annoying.  Whether driving smooth or hammering the piss out of it there is a nasty vibration going on that then goes away when you get around 3K and higher and she smooths out.  This reminded me that my balancer was WAY off and that I had made new timing marks twice.  Ive got a new balancer and motor mounts (easily 10-12 years old) on the way.


 


2) The entire car shakes at highway speeds.  Cruise in gear, cruise with clutch in, cruise with engine off clutch in and out in neutral, nothing changes is except speed of the car.  Goes away around 50-55mph or so.  Im thinkin its a wheel or two outta balance.  She needs an alignment anyways from doing the rack and pinion swap (I did my best in the garage to get the recommended 1/16 toe) so Ill have them balance all 4 wheels while Im at it.  


 


Hoping this will then clear it up and allow me to get back to seeing how she does on the highway for an extended amount of time which is where my issues with overheater were last year and the year before.  I believe the new dist block on the carb solved the issue but it was cool outside when I tested it last.  For now Im just sitting on my hands waiting for the parts to come in...from a place thats notorious for taking years to ship me anything I order to top it off lol.  I paid the extra for quick shipping but have a bad feeling itll be next week regardless.


 


Matt


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Yeah buddy and there for a while I had a couple contacts down under who were more than willing to help get my hands on one...for a price LOL.  Theres a guy around these parts who has an old crossflow 250 which is between the standard 200/250 the US got and the new 4.0 inline.  It had a MUCH better flowing head and made good power, especially with a small hairdryer.  If this six doesnt work Ill either stick with another 200/250 or Im done messing with em in this car.  Im not lookin to make a ton of power, I just want to make enough to have fun but more importantly, have it be reliable and fun to drive.


 


I tossed the new balancer on, topped off the radiator (had to remove it to get old balancer off) and then took it out for about an hour drive yesterday evening.  Runs good, still havin some vibration issues outta the motor/trans at about 2K rpm which is annoying and some between 50 and 60 mph which clear up around 65 or so.  She ran nice and cool and other than the vibration issues seemed to be really happy.  Im gonna toss plugs, wires, cap, rotor and an oil change at her and see if it doesnt help any.  Then shes off for an alignment and gonna gave the wheels/tires balanced.  


 


New Exhaust actually sounds a little better than I was hoping it would too!  Inside the car its loud when you want it to be and quiet when your cruising at speed on the highway.  Heres a little clip in the driveway when I was putting it away after last nights drive.


 


>http://youtu.be/qFZCPJx8D6s


 


Matt


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The driveshaft is brand new after having issues with other vibrations Dave at Dave's (lol) made me one and tossed new ujoints in.  That was last year and it was perfect for the ride to Gatlinburg.  Ive got some new motor mounts in and didnt swap em yet, gonna look at the trans mount too as Ive found that to fix a couple similar issues while doing some research online.  Im also gonna check the driveshaft where it mounts to the rear end (fox style 4 bolt setup) and make sure its not loose.


 


Matt


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Figured out some if not most of my vibration issues last night.  Was messing with getting the new Ebrake setup to work and noticed a bolt nearly completely out of the T5-6 cyl bellhousing adapter!  I put it back in and tightened it up and snugged up a couple other bolts making sure they were all good as I went.  Took it around the block and its smoother than ever.  Still not 100% but damned close!!!  Ive got some motor mounts at the house and a new trans mount on the way but may not even need em.  Im tossing around the idea of taking the trans out, making for damned sure all the adapter bolts are good and tight and then while Im at it, looking for the source of the tranny fluid leak in the front of the trans.  Then I can toss the new mount on while Im at it.  Otherwise the carb is really really happy for once and once I get everything solid I can move back on to turning up the boost!  Oh, and for the first time since I got the car, the Ebrake actually works half decent!!!


 


Matt


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Was it bell to block bolts?


 


You might want to pull the trans and check the input shaft for play just in case it was enough to allow the trans to be misaligned.


 


Trust me, if you let a misalignment go, it will wear your trans out in a very short time.


 


Having a lot of wear on that input shaft from misalignment will cause everything to wear as time goes on. It would be better to discover that now and replace the pilot bearing and that bearing up in the front of the trans where the input shaft goes in the trans case than wait and have more wear down the road. That is if it's worn out of spec.  :yes:


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It was the adapter that mates the tranny to the inline six belhousing.  If I do pull the trans this summer Ill go through it lightly and replace some leaky seals and make sure everything else looks ok.  Then I can make sure the adapter is still tight all around as all but that one bolt are covered when the tranny is bolted up.  The bell to the block was nice and tight.  Really wish I could use the T5 bell, then I could put together a cable clutch setup and be rid of the old Zbar linkage.  Ive read that there is a mythical bellhousing found only on 81 Mustangs with the 200 that bolted up a T4 and therefore a T5 will bolt up as well.  Ive also thought about trying to just grab a Fox 200 bell for the cable clutch setup but then I believe Ide need another adapter as the one Im using is specific to the 66 bell.  If/when I swap to a 302/289 I WILL toss a cable setup in there tho for sure.


 


Matt


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Car is in the air, transmission is out and Im BEYOND glad I went through the trouble.  First...the T5 came out without any issues, nothing to move outta the way except the trans crossmember.  I recently had the 3" exhaust tucked closer to the car and in doing so they moved it over away from the trans just a tad...made all the difference in the world.  The crossmember and trans both came out without having to move the exhuast which made me happy as can be.  ANYways, some observations and issues I have taken note of and plan to work on while its out.


 


1) Transmission itself.  The front was leaking and I believe it was just from the bearing retainer/throwout bearing sleeve.  Front bearing is nice and smooth and there is absolutely 0 play in the input shaft!  There were a couple loose bolts including one that had stripped out the housing where the tailhousing bolts up.  No biggie as its one of the bolts that passes all the way through, Ill grab a longer bolt and nut to fix.  Tailshaft is a mess, the bushing is shot and the tailshaft has a TON of play in it.  Now I know why its vibrating so bad AND leaking out the BRAND NEW rear seal.  Gonna have to tear it apart and replace the seal and bushing but Im excited to get it right again!  Im convinced the screwed up aluminum driveshaft that kept having Ujoint issues and was a vibration monster was the culprit.


 


2) Trans to Bell adapter was held on with 3 of the 4 bolts and 2 of them were loose...finger tight loose, one almost falling out.  One bolt, which cant physically fall out because the transmission covers half the hole up was missing meaning it was never installed.  The bolt that was actually tight is stuck so Im gonna either leave it or hit it with some heat and try to carefully get it loose.  Its a little hex headed bolt and Im afraid to strip it.  Im gonna have to hope the hardware store has something similar to replace them with or Ill have to contact the manufacturer for more.  


 


3) Im literally leaking every fluid the car has except the rear end, which is the only thing keeping it from being as bad as the ole SVO was.  The NEW master cylinder is leaking from the cap, coolant is leaking from the rear of the head where the heater line is (easy fix), oil is leaking from numerous places including the dipstick under boost (gonna try to fix this best I can) the drain plug in the pan (threads in the pan are almost gone) and possibly from the turbo as well.  Ill tackle all of this while its in the air and I have the room to hunt the source down.


 


4) Wiring, cables and hoses routed through the tunnel.  Gonna clean em all up and try to make everything look a little nicer and keep it all outta the way.  


 


5) Rear end and driveshaft need some clearance.  The driveshaft rubs a bracket I made to hold the Ebrake lines in the tunnel when the rear end is bottomed out to put it plainly.  It rubs enough to hear it and to rub the paint off the driveshaft.  Ill come up with somethin better to move them outta the way (already have some ideas).  The rear end itself rubs my external fuel filter during the same instances which is a pain in my *** but Ill try to move it again and try to make it all happy.


 


Otherwise, everything is lookin good to go!  Alignment and wheel balance will obviously have to wait but Im thinkin the vibrations will be nice and tame after this adventure.  Ive also been eyeballin a cable clutch swap and tryin to make the bellhousing work (saw someone do it and it doesnt look too bad).  Ill prolly wait tho...no sense fixing somethin that isnt broken just yet.


 


Matt


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Glad you got it figured out!

I'll second that DS vibrations causing that tail shaft to wear out.

The way trans are built, they don't like any misalignments or balance problems, etc. If there are any, it will cause trans issues. :yes:

it won't be long and you'll have all the bugs worked out. She'll be a dependable weekend cruiser and track warrior! :3gears:

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Man, the other day when I tightened that 1 little bolt down and drove her around...I was in awe at how smooth she drove (still had some vibration obviously lol) and realized that the whole reason I wanna bail on the boosted 6 is that its not fun to drive anymore.  The carb fix makes it accelerate like a normal car again when cruising, the steering is back up to par and able to handle the wider tires better without massive amounts of bumpsteer and now Im hoping to knock down the vibrations that made the car just plain annoying to drive.  The overheating issues seem to be at bay with the carb sorted out as well so I might actually have a NORMAL CAR to drive around again!!!  I was seriously over it and ready to get rid of the whole setup and start over.  The power and unique-ness of the turbo 6 was plenty to keep going but the annoyances were not.  If I can get it running reliably, smoothly and cool again then Ill be happy to deal with blowing dipsticks outta the tubes, oil leaks and other issues the little boosted 6 wants to toss at me again!  Shoot, I might even shed a tear of joy if this next round of repairs brings the old girl back to how I want her and how I remember she used to be on the streets!!!


 


Matt


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Out with the old, waiting on the new to come in the mail!  


 


IMG_20140612_081308627_zpsj4fpu7ko.jpg


 


Tailshaft bushing is outta the tailshaft along with the new yet leaky rear seal.  Figured Ide go ahead and replace it while I was at it even if it is new.  Bushing came out easier than I thought without a press.  Theres a "channel" in the wall of the tailshaft housing (for oiling Im sure) thats convenient for chiseling out the old bushing without damaging anything.  New bushing will tap right back in just as easily.  Taking the tailshaft housing off wasnt too bad either, hammer out the pin holding the shifter block (thing that the shifter ball goes into) and remove it from the shifter shaft.  Then remove the bolts holding the housing to the tranny and hammer it loose from the rest of the trans.  Pull it out and your there!  Once I had all that apart I went on to adding some silly little things I just got in the mail.  Added the little chrome surrounds that the lock pulls sit in so they dont rattle around and annoy the hell outta you, replaced the latch on the glovebox so it wont open every time I slam 2nd anymore and added some weatherstripping under the hood thats been missing since I got the car lol.  Ill get on top of the little leaks here and there this weekend and hopefully have it all ready to go either right before the wedding or when I get back.


 


Oh, was standing in the garage admiring the view and thought Ide try to capture it with my phone


 


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Not a bad driveway...could definitely add to it (and subtract the busted up mower lol) and be happy but thats pretty much everything I need at the moment all in one shot lol


 


Matt


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Took advantage of some downtime last night and crawled under the car to attack some of the leaks.  Bent the wire that secures the master cylinder cap in hopes that itll stop leaking at the cap.  If not Ill have to take it out of the car and make sure the gasket surface is true and smooth.  Noticed the oilpan bolts were ALL hand tight  :rolleyes: so I snugged them up...prolly have to replace the gasket down the road but Ill see how this does first.  Put a piece of rubber around the dipstick where it meets the tube in hopes of keeping it from leaking out under boost.  Gonna grab a new PCV valve from an SVO to try and help with the pressure.  Also attacked a known issue which was the stripped drain hole in the pan.  Someone down the road, not even entirely sure who, noticed the pan was stripping out and installed one of those tappered drain plugs with a small bolt in it to seal up the pan and still allow you to drain from the smaller hole.  That stupid thing has been leaking for years and Im fed up so now Im off to tap the pan and put a bigger drain plug in which SHOULD round out the oil leak issues...heres to hoping!!!!


 


Coolant leak will be taken care of when I install the new heater core and hoses.  The list of things to do is getting bigger and bigger but Im genuinely excited to work on this thing again in hopes of it hitting the streets and being better than ever.  Heres to hoping at least!


 


Matt


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Yeah for sure.  The trans bolts will be gettin some for sure.  Its been YEARS since the tranny went in and a couple years since I did the pan so Im thinkin I just need to get under it more often and snug things up lol.


 


Matt


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No pics but had a productive weekend.  Trans is back together and ready to go back in.  Adapter plate is now tight and missing bolt replaced.  Got most of the wiring tucked up and out of the way.  Got under the dash and put the missing nylon bushing between the clutch pedal spring and bracket in so it would quit squeeking and removed the old Ebrake handle which made life alot easier under there.  I also moved the fuel filter so its no longer in danger from the rear end hitting it.  Took the old throwout bearing out as I was getting some rattling unless I either pushed in the clutch or adjusted it to be at the very top of its throw.  Sucker was wore slap out so I got another on the way today and then the trans should be good to go back in!  Need to address the parking brake cable bracket thats hitting the driveshaft when I hit big bumps or when I launch the car and then the driveshaft can go back in.  After that, just a couple piddly projects to clean some stuff up and Ill be back on the road.  Ill do what I can this week then Ill jump back on it when I get back from the wedding!


 


Matt


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After years of relying on the old LM1 box between the seats to keep an eye on my A/F, I finally got around to buying something a little more convenient and safe while driving.  Before I would have to plug it in, turn it on, wait for it to warm up and then either have someone run with me to read the A/F on the fly or look down at the transmission tunnel to see where I was at.  Now, I dont have to take my eyes off the road unless I want to know exactly what the A/F #s are.


 


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IMG_20140712_170057671_HDR_zpsqyjhhspd.j


 


Thats an AEM Uego which combines everything into one 52mm gauge rather than a large control box like the LM1.  The LM1 is great but this is far more convenient in this car.  Cool thing is I didnt have to drill anyholes, I pushed the wires throught the defrost vent and screwed the gauge mount down using the vent cover screw.  I couldnt find another spot it would fit and be visable enough so this will work for now!! If I dont like it or get sick of it Ill hunt for another spot lol  I really enjoyed the narrowband A/F gauge I ran in the SVO so I had one for the 66 but went with the LM1 wideband instead.  Now I can have the gauge and wideband to be a little more precise.


 


Matt


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All good stuff man I really like the car and what your doing with it!!! A little tip with the eugo since thats what I run on the buick...power the thing up and let it do its cycle till it reads full lean and the sensor will last you a helluva long time...mine has been in two different cars on 3 different motors and seen pump gas/ethanol/leaded race fuel without any trouble...I attribute this to letting the heater do what its supposed to before putting any exhaust to it.


 


I have wanted to do a boosted slant six dodge dart with a 4 speed for years and seeing this just makes me wish I had the funds to start!


Edited by LSH8TER
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Thanks man Ill do that for sure!!!  Sitting in the car last night doin some wiring I realized that the car is WAY off of being a show piece...hell its even a long ways off of being considered nice in some's definition but I was reminded that the cars purpose isnt all about being looked at, but rather to be driven, turn heads and be fun.  She's got alot of nice stuff and is unique but has alot of old crappy things that need to be replaced and I almost get overwhelmed sometimes looking at it all.  Hell, even new stuff needs redone like the (FREE) BMW seats that need redone and the little plastic covers over the adjustment mechanisms need fixed or replaced etc etc.  Its easy to get caught up in all the AMAZING online or tv builds that are spot on perfect in every way and gorgeous and think, why cant I do that right now.  The car isnt even overly fast...quick, yes as it makes as much if not more whp as my HCI 302 did, but not earth shattering fast.  So where does that leave the old girl?  Exactly where she is.  Shes a good lookin cruiser that I love to tinker with and altho shes not anywhere close to being good shes got tons of potential and one day Ill be skilled enough and have enough money to make it happen.  Till then, shes gonna be a mess, but Im still gonna love every bit of it!!!  Sometimes I go into the garage and stare at it and have NO idea where to go next and have to search to find the motivation to get back on it but the idea of missing out on the Cruise ins and most importanly Shades of the Past keep me going.


 


That said, Im really close to having her back on the ground.  Driveshaft is back under the car and I have the electric cutout wired up finally.  Cant wait to go through the tunnel on the way from Gatlinburg to Pigeon Forge at 20psi with the 3" dump open!  Gotta fill the transmission up, change the oil, plugs, wires, cap and rotor and then she should be ready for some cruising!  Hopefully I have got all the shakes and vibrations ironed out but if not I still have time before the beginning of Sept.


 


Matt


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So far so good man, getting it running and driving reliably is my main goal as of right now.  One day Ill tackle all the ugly stuff, patch floor pan rust (surprisingly minimal), redo entire interior, make a new center console, fix minor body issues and re-spray, clean up engine bay so it actually looks good rather than looking like all hell broke loose in it etc. but for now...running, driving and cruising out East and back is all that matters!!!  Oh...and doing some final tweaking on the carb.  Its better than ever before and probably not far off of being as close to good enough as Ill ever get it...VERY happy about that!  Been driving it around for WAY too long with it running like crap.  Ill be hollering your way when alot of these projects come up tho you know that!


 


On a side note, MIGHT have a project come up that I could use some helping hands on.  Not sure just yet, gotta go check it out Sat and see what Im up against but Ill let you know!


 


Matt


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I'm with LSH8TER, you've done a great job with the car.

I like the six being there and building on what came factory. Adding the turbo is the icing on the cake! :yum:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Had to work all weekend but I squeezed in an hour or two to mess with the Mustang some.  Topped of the tranny with fluid, changed the oil in the motor and while Im waiting on a cap and rotor for the dizzy I thought Ide tackle another cool little project idea I ran across on Popular Hotrodding and quickly decided to steal!  Seeing the amount of road-side work Ive had to do lately on the last few trips to Shades of the Past and back, I decided to put together a devoted tool box strictly for the Mustang and then build a mount for it so its no longer floating around free in the trunk.  Im also going to try and free up some trunk space and offset the battery weight by putting it in the driver's side rear "nook" after the wheel well.  I went to 5 different stores this weekend and then went back to the first stop (Tractor Supply) and picked up a perfect little 16" metal tool box.  (Ill take pics later sorry lol).  Ran to Sears and took advantage of some discounts and got some tools to fill it, all for under $100 which made me happy.  Im gonna take the toolbox and battery box over the Pate's this week to weld together a bracket to mount both securely in the trunk.  I pulled everything out of the trunk in the down time and scrubbed the sucker clean so I could toss some bedliner spray at it.  Nothing special, just a couple cans of the spray paint kind and things are already looking better!


 


IMG_20140721_084148351_zpszxqvrtfw.jpg


 


Really simple to use and seems to be very forgiving.  I didnt get the trunk spotless but I scrubbed it and vacuumed it till I was decently happy.  I wouldnt use this stuff on a truck bed but for this project and rust control under the car, it looks good and seems tough so far!  Not sure if the streaking will go away but Im not putting any more layers on so it is what it is.  Gonna get with Pate in the next couple days and get the brackets built then I can get it all back together and ready to call done.  Im gonna gain trunk room and safety with this round of fun which Im very happy for and having a dedicated tool set for this car is long overdue!


 


Matt


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