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Weather was good, car actually ran really really well all the way to the show, opened the dump valve just up the street and cruised to my parking spot with everyone staring at me.  Got a TON of mixed reactions from that one.  Older "purists" wondering what was broken on my car to make that noise and younger folks knowing exactly what it was.  

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Met quite a few fantastic people who had cruised their 60's 6 banger cars from as far as Pennsylvania and New Jersey which was amazing, got to pick apart a few nice cars for ideas on what to do next as well as talk to quite a few people about the turbo setup.  Was also cool to see a T code Fastback for the first time (white next to mine).  Would have liked to have been able to move from there to the Goodguys show but we stayed too late and had to hurry home for a family dinner.  

Ended up breaking down in Smyrna and again in the Boro on the trip home but eventually got it into the garage under its own power and didnt have to walk anywhere which + win in my book.  Car would sputter and die.  Pulled over and the fuel pump sounded funky.  I have a full fuel bowl so I figured even if the pump was acting up I should be able to fire and run till the bowl emptied so I checked spark at the coil and wasnt getting any.  The MSD box and the coil were both blazing hot.  Minute or so later, spark was back and she would fire right up and go.  In the process I noticed the coil post on the distributor cap was loose and could nearly be pulled free from the cap with little effort.  Reminded me how old most of these parts are so new cap, rotor, plug wires and coil are on the way.  Im going to re-route some wiring, check the Alt wiring and make sure nothing else looks suspicious then hope that its happy again.  I wont hold the last minute hiccups against her. it was hot as hell all day and it rocked down the interstate at 75mph with me and two others and a full trunk and didnt think twice till then!

OH...and another small victory, not a single drip, drop or streak of a leak of ANYthing after the day of driving.  That...is...a MIRACLE for me and this car!!!!!!!

Matt

 

mstrpth, Disney, ls1adam84 and 3 others like this

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When I first had the T5 swapped in place of the wounded C4 I had to source some pedals and linkage etc to make it happen.  I then had a shop put it all together for me.  The stiff clutch issue Im battling today has been the same deal since day one and tecnhically the only part not replaced along the way has been the Pressure Plate (which I believe to be the culprit) and now the pedals/hanger assembly.  I had them put in a roller bearing kit for the pedal shafts but I remember WAY back that the pedals fell out of the dash twice if I remember right and the shop had to tweak and fix it numerous times before it was any sort of reliable.  Things have gotten way smoother with the addition of a better throwout bearing, new clutch fork and especially with the recent mods to the Z bar and linkage but the pedal still has not only the hard spot but also when slowly working it back and forth, theres a groan or a grumble to it.  This paired with the fact that the previous shop has spaced the clutch pedal from the hanger 1/2-3/4 inch with fender washers has led me to bite the bullet and pull the pedals out to see whats up.

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Pedals out.

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It appears to be a Scott Drake pedal bushing kit as they are sealed bearings with a snap ring holding them in.  When I got the pedals out I noticed some crud inside one of them that appears to be plastic from one of the old bushings but while removing it with my pinky I realized that one of the bearings is siezed up completely.  The other spins but with some slight resistance.  You can see on the pedal shaft where the shaft was riding on the bearing race rather than the bearing doing the moving.  Im going to pull the hanger and probably start completely over now that I have the tools and know-how.  Im also going to look at replacing the pedal shaft while Im at it.  At the end of this I will be able to know that everything is new and as right as I can get it!

Matt

JohnC likes this

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Got the pedal support pulled in no time (not sure why all the whining online about how hard/tedious/annoying it is) and found a couple issues.  The left bearing is not only seized up, but when I finally worked it free, it may as well have been a square lol.  It would roll but not without a decent amount of pressure and then it would hit a "lip", go over it and lock up.  With a good deal more pressure it would go back to a section that would allow it to rotate and then hit another lip and flat spot.  Also, the bearings themselves are not straight with each other making it a pain to get the clutch pedal shaft free but they are also not spaced correctly either.  If you look at the picture, the left bearing (top) is pushed further into the inside of the support than the other.  These are supposed to be welded to the outside of the support walls providing the proper spacing for the clutch pedal, brake pedal and the shaft pin.  This is why they added so many washers to space it out.

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Rather than mess with it, I hunted down another unmolested support and will do the bearing swap myself this time.  Anyone with an auto could use this support as the brake pedal was used to space the bearings and will work great but I wouldnt let anyone with a manual use it.  I cleaned up the pedals and hit them with some rust primer and then the parts that show with some black.  I swapped on some new pedal covers too while I was at it.  No more clutch pedal cover falling off randomly due to the rubber being toast!!!

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Another silly thing I did, just because it was out of the car, was mod the drivers side fresh air duct.  My big left foot and it were mortal enemies and the only thing that seemed to remedy it was to kick the hell out of it and then eventually take a hammer to it to get it somewhat out of my way.  I had to remove it to get the pedals out so I cut the bent and mangled excess off the bottom, moved the "cap" with the air hole up as far as I could and still allow the flapper to open and then added a small scoop to redirect the air to my legs rather than directly at the floor.  

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I mocekd up back in place and it appears that it will play nice with my clutch foot.  If not, the little scoop is only tacked on in a couple spots so I can remove it if necessary.  Waiting on the new bearings and pedal support to come in and then I should be back up and going again.  

Oh, I also pulled the rubber fuel line going to the carb and am working on replacing it with braided line and running it to the intake side port on the fuel bowl.  All for insulation purposes.  I also tossed the rubber hose vent extension I was running and put in some brake tubing.  After I get it all together I will attempt to get the tune where Im happy with it and then really would like to start looking at WOT/boost tuning.

Matt

mstrpth and Disney like this

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Got my replacement pedal support in.  Someone put in the time to put some new bushings in...shame cause they are worthless to me.

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Pot metal bushings removed and bearing collars welded in.  Did my best to do short sections and move around and managed to NOT warp either collar!

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Inner washer tacked in place and ground flush.  This is simply to keep from 1) forgetting them entirely and 2) not having to fiddle with them under the dash.

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Did the same with the little washer on the clutch pedal shaft.

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Checked my clearances, made sure everything fit perfect (and it did...first try...which baffled me lol) and adjusted/bent the clutch pedal arm to where both pedals are now even and everything appears to be spot on.  The clutch pedal now swings nice and feely where on the other support with the siezed bearing the clutch acted more like the brake pedal, it would swing just fine but not by gravity alone, you had to push it.  Tossed some paint on it to protect it and will be putting it all back under the dash soon.

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I SHOULD be able to completely rule out everything but the pressure plate as the source of my sore left leg after this.  I even bought a new assist spring just to make sure its up to snuff.  Gonna do my best to make sure all the angles and pivot points are lined up as best as I can get them on the z bar again then see what happens.  If nothing else, I at least know its new, done right and near bulletproof.

Matt

 

 

ls1adam84, Disney and JohnC like this

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Looks good and sturdy! :up:

I'd imagine the only weak link will now be the clutch cable itself now if anything isn't lined up right or the cable is worn.

ls1adam84 likes this

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No cable here, all mechanical linkage which I just replaced with parts I put together using heims joints and solid rod.  Adjustable upper rod between the clutch pedal and the "Z bar" pivot set to factory length, strengthened the pivot so the arms have NO chance of tweaking or bending, then an adjustable lower rod from the z bar to the clutch fork.  Clutch fork is brand new recently replaced as is the throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch disk, resurfaced flywheel and resurfaced pressure plate.  Every single thing from the clutch pedal to the trans is new including all bushings, bearings down to the boot over the clutch fork, the boot in the firewall on the clutch rod and hell even the pedal covers LOL.  Now, once I make sure everything is straight and there is no binding, the only culprit left will be the pressure plate itself and I will either 1) continue to live with it or 2) pull the trans and get another pressure plate.  Ill see how everything feels once I get the pedals back where they belong!  This has been fun work tho so Im enjoying it.  I NEED to get the damned carb dialed in but Im not having fun doing it so once I get done checking some of the more fun items off the need list, Ill get back to making it run right.

Matt

Disney likes this

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Pedals back in and they swing nice and smooth.  I havnt adjusted anything and dont have the helper spring or the pedal stop in yet but everything went together real easy which was nice.  

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Matt

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Posted (edited)

nice work , I am having to do this in the Falcon soon.

I will just be useing a cable instead of a z-bar

 

Edited by dr.art

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Super easy work using Mustang Steve's kit and directions.  He also has a cable pedal setup you could look at to make your own.

Matt

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I went from another bearing kit that was not installed properly to this kit and the difference is night and day.  I cant imagine the difference between a wore out cast bushing and a properly installed bearing kit!  With as easy as it is to put together and as affordable as it is, I cant imagine ever having it any other way!

Matt

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1 hour ago, 66sprint6 said:

Super easy work using Mustang Steve's kit and directions.  He also has a cable pedal setup you could look at to make your own.

Matt

thats what I was looking at buyimg

66sprint6 likes this

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