Chad

Random thought thread

17,650 posts in this topic

26 minutes ago, ls1adam84 said:

That is really neat to see how they make the shipping containers.

They have that process down.

Notice how many hands touch that box?  That vid reminds me of U.S. automotive assembly lines circa 1950...it's 90% robotic now.  I wonder how long the Chinese welder can be employed.  Or how much welding fumes they can filter with their lungs....

and what could they do with auto tint hoods, filtering paint with lungs....

I think that illustrates some reasons US workers are at a disadvantage in the marketplace; China can pay welders and painters to work with primitive safety measures yet US workers must be provided with super duper safe (by comparison) conditions.  

 

Edited by Ashley P
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25 minutes ago, Ashley P said:

Notice how many hands touch that box?  That vid reminds me of U.S. automotive assembly lines circa 1950...it's 90% robotic now.  I wonder how long the Chinese welder can be employed.  Or how much welding fumes they can filter with their lungs....

and what could they do with auto tint hoods, filtering paint with lungs....

I think that illustrates some reasons US workers are at a disadvantage in the marketplace; China can pay welders and painters to work with primitive safety measures yet US workers must be provided with super duper safe (by comparison) conditions.  

 

Yet people lost their heads when Trump said to back out of the whole Paris Climate Deal, and stating that "even china was still part of it".

China can claim that they are all about clean air, but the facts point that being a whole heap of BS.

We have given up plenty for safety, and we are pushed further to become fat, happy, and compliant to the demands of those who can't take care of themselves.
 

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Kind of a neat idea. A little over complicated IMO but beats having to find a brake light lead on the BCM (i.e. Equinox) and not screw something up that is overly complex or running wiring through the firewall, just general 4 pin wiring and a charge lead.

 

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1 hour ago, Cannon Fodder said:

Kind of a neat idea. A little over complicated IMO but beats having to find a brake light lead on the BCM (i.e. Equinox) and not screw something up that is overly complex or running wiring through the firewall, just general 4 pin wiring and a charge lead.

 

1)  Why go to the BCM and not the switch?

2) From the site:  Echo™ notifies you with error messages in the event your trailer becomes disconnected or is overloaded during travel.-  Is that what brain dead folks need, their phone to tell them their trailer is in the other lane?

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7 hours ago, Ashley P said:

2) From the site:  Echo™ notifies you with error messages in the event your trailer becomes disconnected or is overloaded during travel.-  Is that what brain dead folks need, their phone to tell them their trailer is in the other lane?

Most drivers are staring at their phone already, so why not.

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7 hours ago, Ashley P said:

1)  Why go to the BCM and not the switch?

2) From the site:  Echo™ notifies you with error messages in the event your trailer becomes disconnected or is overloaded during travel.-  Is that what brain dead folks need, their phone to tell them their trailer is in the other lane?

1) In the case of the newer Equinox both sides of the switch are basically cold as it is just a logic switch so you can't get a signal to trigger the controller.

2) I think just about every controller will flash if the brake lead becomes disconnected.  My P2 flashes n.c every time I start the truck with no cable connected.  It actually flashes .c and 0.0 if I don't have the gain up quite enough.

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Ya know, he is a smart man. Sees a need for good skater shoes and starts a company that sells them so he can have enough money to race. 

I used to buy DC shoes back when i was a skateboarding punk, and if I was good at identifying a need like that, I would be all over it.

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2 minutes ago, ls1adam84 said:


I used to buy DC shoes back when i was a skateboarding punk, and if I was good at identifying a need like that, I would be all over it.

You wore skateboarding shoes??   So did I.....to walk the metal roof of a barn.  :)   They worked GREAT for that.

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22 minutes ago, Ashley P said:

You wore skateboarding shoes??   So did I.....to walk the metal roof of a barn.  :)   They worked GREAT for that.

I used to skate around. I stopped when I was about 18/19 I started when I was 3.

It was fun, kept me out of some trouble, but yeah I couldn't ride now to save my life.

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So I got the truck back.

Registered it for the warranty, 3 years and 100k miles.

It is so damn quiet, I don't know what to do, I now own a vehicle that runs super smooth.

Interesting enough apparently the lead techs at Freeland Chevy instructed the foreman at the shop that put the new motor in, to use 20w-40 diesel motor oil on the AFM/DoD trucks when they get to 50k miles or higher.

I am slightly baffled by this, the tolerances on the LS engines are super tight, I don't know if I agree that putting a really thick oil in it is a good idea.

I always had the best luck running 0w-30 european blend oil in my LS engines. I believe it has a little zinc in it which is great for aluminum engines.

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"zinc....great for aluminum engines"....how many moving parts are in contact with the aluminum of an LS engine?   Other than pistons, that is.

20w40 oil?   Most old diesels used 15w40.  I don't think going that thick would be good for the AFM.  I think many of their problems MIGHT be traced back to air in the oil, drawn into the pump because of a failing pickup tube O-ring.

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1 hour ago, Ashley P said:

"zinc....great for aluminum engines"....how many moving parts are in contact with the aluminum of an LS engine?   Other than pistons, that is.

20w40 oil?   Most old diesels used 15w40.  I don't think going that thick would be good for the AFM.  I think many of their problems MIGHT be traced back to air in the oil, drawn into the pump because of a failing pickup tube O-ring.

Well I know that Zinc is used in a lot of racing motor oils, like VR1 valvoline oil. 

A fair number of LS engine builders recommend oils with Zinc due to how tight the tolerances are and they have seen it help the aluminum LS blocks that see a ton of abuse, IE racing or just being a jerk driver.

Yeah he said it was the Delo oil, I know I have some on the shelf in the garage for break-in when I get the 5.3 ready.

At any rate, that sounds stupid to me, especially since there is that groove on the AFM/DoD camshafts that is used to direct the oil.

All I know is after 3 years or 100k miles I am removing the AFM from that truck and either a stock cam, or a bumpstick with a little more torque for towing that doesn't need headers, or a different stall converter.

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Meh, If he says run it, then run it. He's seen more that you or I have. I run diesel oil in damn near everything I own. On the MIL's truck that I swapped I use 5w30 synthetic. I'm inconsistent if nothing else!

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7 minutes ago, Disney said:

Meh, If he says run it, then run it. He's seen more that you or I have. I run diesel oil in damn near everything I own. On the MIL's truck that I swapped I use 5w30 synthetic. I'm inconsistent if nothing else!

Rotella?

Matt

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1 minute ago, Disney said:

Meh, If he says run it, then run it. He's seen more that you or I have. I run diesel oil in damn near everything I own. On the MIL's truck that I swapped I use 5w30 synthetic. I'm inconsistent if nothing else!

@Disney well he is going with what the techs that he has talked to at Freeland say.

Not saying I am an expert, but I have built a good handful of LS engines, and have had the extreme pleasure of talking and hanging out with Tony Mamo, and the few friends I know that stayed in the engine building world wouldn't ever use that oil in an LS, maybe an old SBC, but not an LS. Clearances are a lot tighter, and the oil passages in the block and the bearings do not like getting clogged on bit, thicker weight oil viscosities do not work well with them.

At least that's what I have seen and been told. I am no expert, and in no way am I saying i am right and you are wrong, I just find it hard to believe that oil for a diesel engine would be remotely good for these engines.

I guess maybe I could very well be wrong too on this one. Maybe i'll have to give it a try at 50k and let y'all know? Heck if I can do that within the next 2 years and the engine gives out before year 3 or 100k miles, then GM will get me a replacement? Lol.

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As I understand it,

Diesel oils were recommended several years ago because of the ZDDP that was still in them at that time.  Zinc was a "high pressure lubricant" for metal to metal protection, like cam gear to distributor gear, but the zinc contaminated the cat converters on gas engines, so the zinc was taken out of gas engine oil.  Modern gas engines (most of 'em)  don't have steel on steel gears anymore, roller lifters, roller rockers...the only LS parts that I see wear are the pushrod ends in the rocker.  Those suffer...

But now diesels have "cat converters", so I'm not sure if the "Rotellas" of the world still have higher zinc.  I changed oil in a "restored" 85 MonteCarlo w/350 yesterday, I put 10-30 Havoline and a bottle of STP for the ZDDP.

 

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26 minutes ago, Ashley P said:

As I understand it,

Diesel oils were recommended several years ago because of the ZDDP that was still in them at that time.  Zinc was a "high pressure lubricant" for metal to metal protection, like cam gear to distributor gear, but the zinc contaminated the cat converters on gas engines, so the zinc was taken out of gas engine oil.  Modern gas engines (most of 'em)  don't have steel on steel gears anymore, roller lifters, roller rockers...the only LS parts that I see wear are the pushrod ends in the rocker.  Those suffer...

But now diesels have "cat converters", so I'm not sure if the "Rotellas" of the world still have higher zinc.  I changed oil in a "restored" 85 MonteCarlo w/350 yesterday, I put 10-30 Havoline and a bottle of STP for the ZDDP.

 

ZDDP is a zinc additive though. 

While running something like VR1 in a car with cats may cause issues, running oils like european blend with lower amounts that just help metal bearings and cam to bearing wear, should be just fine.

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Yeah, zinc =  zddp = the latin zincus de lubricus phoshoratous.  :) 

What's "european blend"?  Is that oil specifically formulated to NOT leak out of a BMW? :)

 

(Answer = no.  There is no known oil that won't leak from a BMW.)  :up:

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15 hours ago, ls1adam84 said:

@Disney well he is going with what the techs that he has talked to at Freeland say.

Not saying I am an expert, but I have built a good handful of LS engines, and have had the extreme pleasure of talking and hanging out with Tony Mamo, and the few friends I know that stayed in the engine building world wouldn't ever use that oil in an LS, maybe an old SBC, but not an LS. Clearances are a lot tighter, and the oil passages in the block and the bearings do not like getting clogged on bit, thicker weight oil viscosities do not work well with them.

At least that's what I have seen and been told. I am no expert, and in no way am I saying i am right and you are wrong, I just find it hard to believe that oil for a diesel engine would be remotely good for these engines.

I guess maybe I could very well be wrong too on this one. Maybe i'll have to give it a try at 50k and let y'all know? Heck if I can do that within the next 2 years and the engine gives out before year 3 or 100k miles, then GM will get me a replacement? Lol.

See, I look at the LS and I see very well engineered oil galleys. I see large oil passages. So, on all of my LS cars i've run Rotella (or Delo, or whatever other synthetic diesel oil is cheapest at the time). BUT... For a daily driver type (My MIL's truck with 5.3 swap) I use 5W30. I DO NOT have a good explanation as to why. Just what my gut tells me so I go with it.

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