1bad6t6

1980 Ford Fairmont Wagon Build

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238 posts in this topic

Got quite a bit done over the holiday stretch. 

I stripped all of the nonessential wiring out of the front which left the side markers, turn signals and headlights. I hid the wiring under the top of the center support.
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I also got around to installing the subframe connectors. I had to cut quite a bit more into the channel than I did on my coupe. I've painted the floor with Rustoleum and still need to apply some seam sealer underneath.

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I also started to rewire the factory harness while adding in all the MS3/MS3x goodies.
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My son and I picked up a coupe Traxxas Stampede VXL 4x4s so that's kinda put the brakes on progress. I used to have a monster truck and an RC10 when I was a kid. I had no idea they've progressed into what they have. The LiPo batteries alone are so much better than the crap we had back in the 90's.

I'll the the wrining wrapped up this weekend. Once I get the dash back in I'll have to order new carpet and make a decision as to which seats to use. 86 GTs with the halos or the factory bench seat.

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Thanks John. The welds were a little rough for me especially on the driver's side. Even concentrating the heat on the tubing still burnt through the sheet metal in places. There was nothing I could do. It was particularly sensitive on the drive's side toward the firewall. Pushing or pulling the puddle, working thick to thin, adjusting wire feed and amps, nothing seemed to help that side. The only thing that seemed to make it better was to lay stitches about 1" then move to a completely different spot. In the end I said screw it. It's going to be under carpet anyway. 

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Thanks, John. The only reason they fit is because I'm using RaceCraft's 1" shorter a-arms. They would tuck under the front fenders if I rolled them.

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Starter to sump the tank. Bought an SMR sump on eBay. Has 3/4" NPT fittings in it. I'll have the fuel system in this weekend. 
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I need to move the turbo flange inward. On my coupe, I had to cut the frame rail and I don't want to do that with the wagon. Crabbed more material from Columbia River. I may redo most of the hotside regardless.
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9 minutes ago, 1bad6t6 said:

Thanks, John. What was wrong with 'em? I checked before I left and they looked fine.

Images weren't showing, just text links. 

I guess pasting the full html needs to be done in the manual "Source" mode (top left pf the CKEditor box tools). If you just pasted a direct image link (usually ends in .jpg or some other image format, i'm sure it'll auto embed. 

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Got the tank done. By far the worst attempt at welding I've ever done. I clearly need thin material work. The good news is it held water for 8 hours without any sign of leaking. Threw some paint on it and now have to figure out how I'm going to add the return. Pretty sure a bulkhead fitting up by the filler neck will do the job.

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I cut out a piece that seemed to be more for reinforcement than anything else. Gave me the needed room to squeeze that fat-*** -10 line in there behind the 18's.

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Got the fuel system about 75% installed. Just need to pin the lines up and install the pumps.

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Set the return in the top, passenger side of the tank by the fill tube.

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Just need a few more fittings and it'll be ready to fire.

Edited by 1bad6t6
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I'd have to somehow secure a hose or some kind of tubing to the fitting. Not sure how it'd do that and keep the AN threads intact.

A few guys I've talked to about that said aeration isn't an issue for them until the fuel level gets really low. I'll be curious to see for myself. I may TIG a piece of 3/8" tube to the fitting and turn it down toward the bottom of the tank.

Edited by 1bad6t6

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You were right, it's PATC. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm

6800  
Ford 68 Inch Speedometer Cable. Snap on top with 7/8 inch threads at the bottom. This is the correct cable for the early Mustang Drag Pac (Drag Pack). This custom made cable is made to be used with a Ford ratio adapter or GM transmission such as a TH400 behind a Ford motor. Cost $50.00
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