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Some of you know that i've been working on a Fox Mustang project. I thought i'd throw it up here in case anybody has some good feedback or suggestions.

 

The car is a 1989 Mustang LX Coupe. I bought it from a guy in McMinnville that got in over his head on it. He has zero fabrication skill and is a 1/10 on auto knowledge. I've had to re-do every single thing on the car that he touched. Including replacing the engine, one head, etc. etc. etc.  This past weekend I think i've finally fixed his last mistake when I dropped the trans pan to fix it from leaking constantly and found the filter was not seated and was all janky and flopping around. That should be his last bit. Fingers crossed. Anyway, onto some specs......  This is mostly his list from his for sale ad. I've deleted and changed a couple things to reflect current state.

 

Engine:

5.3L bottom end from cracked head sludge motor

Z-06 Camshaft

PAC 1218 springs

LS9 head gaskets

Head studs

Camaro LS1 pan

LS1 intake and TB

Fuel:

Magnafuel 750

Summit pre and post filters

80# injectors

TFS rails

TFS regulator

-8 feed

-6 return

Electronics:

MS1 from DIYautotune (Pre-assembled)

MSD 6010

Turbo:

Stock manifolds

2 1/2" piping

Bullseye S475

4" Downpipe

4" exhaust

Chassis:

89 Coupe 4cyl

AJE K-Member kit with A-arms and coilovers

UPR rear arms

8.8 3.31 gear

Detroit TrueTrac

Moser 31spl.

SN95 Front brakes

Fresh Highland Green paint

Fatty/skinny FR500's 

Trans:

Jakes Performance TH400

Circle D converter

B&M shifter

Lokar Dipstick

 

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I am changing up the fuel system from how it was delivered. It had two feed lines to back of rails and two returns. I'm just going to cross over to the other rail, use a single feed and return. Am I stupid? Don't answer that......

I got the Lokar throttle cable in. Used thier mount for it also. Pretty trick I think, especially for the money!

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I took the flange off the stock cable to use on the Lokar to keep it simple. Of course the fucking paint chips off when I unbolt it.....

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AJE transmission Crossmember.

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And here is where my simple "Just finish this" project goes completely off the rails. Once I took the heat wrap off the hot side he cobbled together, this is what I found......

 

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Holy crap...ok, so I am new to alot of "fab" work and am a bit messy but that hotside pipe makes me proud to not suck that bad and puke at the same time.  WOW


 


Matt


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Up next I made the car run. I had to fix some bad wiring to get it to fire, but It did fire and ran under it's own power. Little did I know what was a small victory that would be offset by major fail.

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Since it ran I got all excited and worked on the trans stuff. Had the x member in, so I needed a way to control it. Hit up the parts people and got a fancy new shifter. 

 

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Damn! Hands down, the worst welding pics I've seen on the net! That guy had zero talent!

That said, I like the car and the project! With you doing the work, I know this will turn out nice and fast! :3gears:

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Then I got some Strange 10-way struts and some CC plates. Slapped them on and all was well. Then one day I thought I was hearing an exhaust leak, even though it was open manifold....  Turns out the back bolt on the dr. side was broke off.


 


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So it turns out the guy knew it was and had tried to fix it. But he didn't do a good job and the tap he was trying to use was broke off in the bolt in the head.. I got it out, Then was cleaning up the gasket surface from where he smeared sealer all over in an attempt to seal it. And what do I find??


 


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At thins point i'm just like... FML.


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I am changing up the fuel system from how it was delivered. It had two feed lines to back of rails and two returns. I'm just going to cross over to the other rail, use a single feed and return. Am I stupid? Don't answer that......

I'm doing the same with mine with a -8 feed and -6 return and expecting it to still support 1k hp. The ls9 guys are running a single -8 feed up to 1000hp with no return and stock rails that have small crossovers. I think it will be fine and is cleaner install.

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OK, So score a new head from a guy at work. I clean it up, swap everything over and i'm ready to go!


 


I clean the gasket surface on the block before I drop the head back on. That's when I notice the dots on the pistons....  


 


uploadfromtaptalk1382627905257_zpsapbgha

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So I pull the engine to turn that piston around and I figure I should check his work there too. He was supposed to have opened the ring gap up, and with this piston being in backwards, I figured he at least attempted it.


 


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I get the slug out and check the gap. Nope... Didn't gap em. It was at .018". So I knock the rest of them out and set about to gap the rings.  That is of course when I notice this... 


 


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Thinking it's pretty bad. Everyone says to run it. I decide to hone it and see where i'm at....


 


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It's too bad for me. I mean.. It ran, but i'm not going to run it.


 


At this point i'm like...  FML x2


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Man, forget my last post.  If you get this thing running....you aren't a doctor, you're a magician!   It's like you have to redo EVERYTHING to have any peace of mind.   Next up:  pictures of backward rod caps...


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Then my super duper great friend comes through in the clutch!!  He had a motor come in with a cracked head that they replaced the whole assy. This was what they call a sludge motor.


 


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And they were right!!!  I don't know if i've torn down mu worse than this. I was bizzare how much sludge it had, but it ran just fine.


 


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After 100 cans of gunk and hours with the parts washer....  And the help of my little friend.....


 


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While I was in there I did bearings, rings, and cam bearings. Also did a new oil pump. I ported and shimmed the pump. I also did a new LS2 timing chain. 


 


I dropped it back in with everything else the same, fired it up. Made me happy.


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So now that I knew the new motor ran OK, I decided I couldn't stand that janky *** rats nest wiring any more. As I took it apart I found more butt connectors than the harness has wires.  A few hours with the soldering iron later...


 


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Boom. Non-janky wiring.


 


I got a new IC other than what the car came with. For piece of mind...  Got it mocked and some brackets made. Fits like a glove. 


 


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Then I moved. That sucked. Took a lot of wind out of this project's sails. To help the move, I made my own driveshaft for it. ******* joints, scrap driveshaft, some luck...  And I was able to drive the car onto the trailer, then into the new shop. Good feeling..


 


 


BACK TO WORK!!!


 

 


I dropped in an old radiator for reference and started figuring on where I wanted the turbo to go. Decided on this...


 


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I notched the frame rail and welded the flange in place. 


 


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Then I start the turbo kit. Welded vbands onto the manifolds (they are cast steel, not cast iron). I started by running the pass side over then figured I wanted the DP to be 4" and run all the way to the back bumper. So I better route that sucker first then run the pressure side.


 


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So I stop there and start working on the DP.


 


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