mstrpth

gmc valve seals

66 posts in this topic

I had to try! :rofl:

So on a serious note, what type and brands are you considering?

 

I have no clue! I haven't bought a car that I actually wanted and didn't need in a long time.

 

no Camaros, I love mustangs but would I be happy with a 4.6? although I love the 05 with red interior. I wouldn't rule out a focus st, but good luck with finding that....so really I don't know

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Wait, there is a 700hp 5.4 mustang GT for sale right in your budget (see for sale section)! :lol:

Ok, back to serious again...

How much are used 2011 GT's going for now?

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Wait, there is a 700hp 5.4 mustang GT for sale right in your budget (see for sale section)! :lol:

Ok, back to serious again...

How much are used 2011 GT's going for now?

 

notice the "trade-in" part of the post :lol:

 

its all across the board. I did find a 03 or 04 saleen with little miles, but its an automatic.

 

who knows, I may end up fixing the truck. new ends, gaskets, etc. will set me back about $1k. IF that's the problem. not sure which route i'm taking yet.

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The Saleen was $16k?

If that's low miles and in good shape, I'd definitely be trying to get it!

 

well it was an automatic so no thank you.

I've searched high and low and I can't find it for anything! I looked at it a couple times last night at home...

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That's not a bad price for a luxury hotrod! :up:

Link to a coupe of these? :D

Especially when they stickered right at 50k 10 years ago or less. Only made a sedan in the V1.

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Don't know how I missex the link you posted! :lol:

That's a clean looking V!

If that car checked out, I'd be all over it mstrpth! :up:

I think it's a little high but I bet you could get them to come off of it some. Free carfax said the title was clean for what that's worth.

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I think it's a little high but I bet you could get them to come off of it some. Free carfax said the title was clean for what that's worth.

I think we just found his new car! :lol::up:

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I think we just found his new car! :lol::up:

lets slow down just a bit  :lol:

 

I've got a few more test before I throw in the towel!

 

I haven't officially checked compression yet so that's on my weekend to-do list. That should tell me if valves or piston rings are bad. if that checks out fine, i'm going to run a flush through it. IF that gets me no where......i'm done!

 

this has consumed my life for a week now! I hate when I can't figure something out (engineer in me). But what I hate even more is wasting what very little free time I have on it.

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finally did a dry compression test on the pos truck. I had intended on doing a wet test on any low numbers but didn't have time......working on vehicles comes last at my house and i'm tired of being a night mechanic :ranting: but that's a whole other story!


 


gallery_83_4_9682.jpg


 


The internet has several different opinions on how to read these numbers. For a truck with 180k miles they didn't seem that bad to me. although 30psi(19%) difference from highest to lowest is a big spread. Do you think #5 could be causing me to lose that much oil(.5 quart/tank)?


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What was your procedure to get those numbers?

 

killed ignition, fuel and pulled spark plugs.

used a compression tester, turning the engine over until gauge needle peaked.

 

I assume I did it correctly. is there another/better way?

 

edit - the engine wasn't 100% warmed up but close enough It felt better to wear gloves when pulling plugs

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I agree with your process until...."turning engine over until gauge needle peaked".   I prefer using 3 or 4 strokes, and doing so about 3 or 4 times per cylinder.  Why?  because  depending on piston location the first stroke can be a really low number.  My 9.15:1 engine had a first stroke of 95-110 and a final (3rd or 4th stoke) of 175-185.


 


125 is weak if it's the 5th or higher stroke (more like a 2nd stroke number, IMO).


 


It would be GREAT to see a fresh engine like yours to compare.   But I'd lean toward a wet test.


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I agree with your process until...."turning engine over until gauge needle peaked".   I prefer using 3 or 4 strokes, and doing so about 3 or 4 times per cylinder.  Why?  because  depending on piston location the first stroke can be a really low number.  My 9.15:1 engine had a first stroke of 95-110 and a final (3rd or 4th stoke) of 175-185.

 

125 is weak if it's the 5th or higher stroke (more like a 2nd stroke number, IMO).

 

It would be GREAT to see a fresh engine like yours to compare.   But I'd lean toward a wet test.

 

In reality it was 4-5 strokes. I was doing it alone and figured that was plenty to get an accurate reading. should have stated that - sorry.

 

question - I've never done a wet test before. whats the best method for getting oil in through the spark hole? a syringe? the holes on a 5.3 turn up about 40 degrees.

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Probably, with a hose on the end.  Have you got a lot of blowby when you take off the oil fill cap?

 

none or none noticeable when I first noticed it smoking. I haven't checked it since then. i'll check it tonight

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Do you have an air compressor? Will it hook to you compression test hose? Hook it up and see where you hear the air leaking to.

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Do you have an air compressor? Will it hook to you compression test hose? Hook it up and see where you hear the air leaking to.

 

I hooked air to it when I replaced the valve seals. At 85psi I didn't hear air anywhere, and wasn't loosing any pressure. I didn't turn it up any higher because it was enough to turn the motor over, so I knew my valves wouldn't drop. If the oil leak is internal would I hear anything regardless?

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 If the oil leak is internal would I hear anything regardless?

If your piston rings are sloppy or the cylinder wall is scored (or rings broken, rarity) you will hear air coming out of the crankcase because it's leaked by that failure.  Every cylinder will leak a little, the key is to focus on the low cylinders and see what you find.  Then compare that to a high cylinder.

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