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Everything posted by 66sprint6

  1. Random thought thread

    I WISH!!! I need to find that magical junkyard and get to pulling em as quick as I can! Then Ide be able to join in the "swap the everything in your driveway" club!!! Matt
  2. 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 Tuning with HP Tuners

    With good air and a decent track you would be in the high 12's on a good pass easy. Get that tune sorted out and you will pick up even more and then when the rest of the mods finally roll in and get put in place itll be great. Matt
  3. 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 Tuning with HP Tuners

    Dang I wish I coulda made it, looks like we woulda had the track to ourselves LOL. Looks like your back where you were before you started making changes and tuning on the car so you gotta be headed in the right direction!!! Keep at it! Matt
  4. 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 Tuning with HP Tuners

    Now go down it...quickly. Matt
  5. 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 Tuning with HP Tuners

    Best of luck, wish I could join for sure! Matt
  6. 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 Tuning with HP Tuners

    If you cant do BB tonight go to the Hill instead. I wanna see that sucker ironed out and if I had any way of helping I would do so BUUUUTTTT I cant tune anything ever...carb or EFI so Im worthless to you right now. Matt
  7. Beech Bend 7/18

    Post results!!!!!! Matt
  8. Beech Bend 7/18

    Im out as well but would love to head out there sometime. Bit far for me to swing after work unless its a weekend deal anyways. Matt
  9. Random thought thread

    Always! Matt
  10. Glad to hear your DDing the car again, thats awesome! Matt
  11. ITSASIX 1966 Mustang Turbo

    Redoing this thread is gonna be impossible but I may chip away at it when things get slower. Matt
  12. Thought Ide toss up the latest on the old 66. Ill dig up some older pics from the beginning for those who may not be familiar with the car, but heres the latest. UPDATED Summer 2015. Changes listed in red. 1966 Mustang Coupe "Sprint" package 200 ci inline six BONE stock pistons, rods and crank Now .040 bored stock block, custom RaceTech Pistons, stock rods and cranks 292 cam (oooold) Ed Curtis custom cam BIG log 250 head with valve springs for cam, milled for 2V carb direct mount Aussie 250-2V head and intake Holley 2300 500cfm carb by QuickFuel for blow thru Custom Header TE44 turbo Front mount intercooler 3" downpipe split to 2.5" pipes to Flowmaster 40s WorldClass T5 Custom steel driveshaft from Dave's 8.8 with 3.55 gears from Fox Grab a trac 4 lead, mid eye rear springs with 1" lowering blocks New stock front springs with 1.5 coils cut Shelby 1" UCA drop Unisteer Rack and Pinion 17x8 TT2 245 BFG Sports Im sure Im missing a bunch of stuff but you get the jist of it. The carb needs a TON of work and is about to be rebuilt, but she runs SUPER rich at the moment. I put it on Carma's dyno and initially put down an EARTH shattering 151 rwhp LOL. The A/F was off the chart rich (8:1ish) so they did a little tweaking, dropped the jets down to the lowest ones my Holley jet kit had which was only 2 sizes lower than what was already in it and gave it another go. This time the A/F was right around the 9:1 area and she picked up a TON, layin down 243 rwhp but the torque was in the low 300s. Ide love to find someone who can get this carb where it needs to be and see what she's capable of then!!! Oh, and all this was on 20psi with the old 2.5" crush bent downpipe and no mufflers, stock rear end with 2.73 gears. Now with the new exhaust and gears, 15psi feels stronger than 20 ever did!!! Back when I first put this setup together, on a different dyno (which may be where the difference in numbers truely lies) on the smaller stock turbo she put down more HP but less torque, would love to get this sucker tweaked and see what the new setup is worth. Took her to Gatlinburg this past weekend for Shade of the Past which was an adventure in itself. 4th year goin, but the old Mustang put up a fight. She has a bad vibration around 70mph and when you let off the gas it gets really bad which seems to point to a bad U-joint, and then after foolin around showin off a bit she ran like *** and almost made me think I wouldnt be gettin her home lol. She would idle fine, but if you tried to get rolling it wouldnt go, you had to floor the hell out of it and slip the clutch. Once you got movin she would run fine so long as I kept the vac around the 5in-0in area, and she ran awesome with a couple psi boost. I put some fresh gas in and she came back around on the way home but I suspect somethin else is up. ANYways, she at least looked and sounded pretty good! Here are a couple of the few shots I got. Crappy shot, but this was the first time these two cars have been together since highschool...FINALLY we were both able to get the old girls out for the weekend. In the morning after a bit of rain Notice anything similar between the two? Thats all I got, she did make it home and now its time to tear her apart and figure out whats up. New Ujoints are on the way along with a carb rebuild kit and a new balancer. After that I will see about gettin the carb tuned! Matt
  13. Random thought thread

    WAIT WHAT?!?!?!?!? What the heck happened? I dont want stupid dog to be put to sleep, even if it means my car looks like either Slimer or Stan's Dad ectoplasmed all over it when I leave! I like that dog! Matt
  14. ITSASIX 1966 Mustang Turbo

    For all the pics I have, $10 was the outter realm of acceptable for me. I never knew that about this site, you guys know me...I post pics of EVERYTHING i can in build threads...mainly so I have something to look back on when Im bored or looking to see where Ive been lol. If it wont hurt anything I may start doing the same! Matt
  15. ITSASIX 1966 Mustang Turbo

    Its asinine. They wont refund any money either BUT I paid for the middle package last week but have not had any changes happen still to this day so I requested a full refund. I wont get it but I will be doing the same as everyone else in the world, pulling my pictures from the site and watch them sink into the depths of obscurity. Good job idiots. If they come out and say the $10 package, which I paid for, will work, then Ill keep going with them but $40 is lunacy! Matt
  16. ITSASIX 1966 Mustang Turbo

    Yeah I post to multiple forums for multiple hobbies so I just put it all on Photobucket to be able to post from one central place. It was all good till this recent BS. I even went on a paid for the mid grade upgrade figuring that I have SO MANY pictures on there, might as well chip in and pay but then I noticed that only the damned $40/mo plan allows you to post them on other forums. Now I have to figure out how to get them off of there and put them somewhere else and go about rebuilding my threads if I even can do so. Matt
  17. ITSASIX 1966 Mustang Turbo

    Ive owned the car since I was 13/14 so in one way or another ive been fiddling with it for nearly 20 years! The manual swap was done 10 years ago and Ive been living with the notchy/stiff/on/off clutch engagement since then! Its noticeably different for sure BUT I havnt been able to drive it and feel the engagement point just yet or make for 100% sure that the clutch engages and disengages fully BUT I pushed it back and forth in the garage telling kathleen to let off the clutch pedal quickly in 2nd and the car would squeak the tires to a direct stop. I should be able to fire it up here soon and then the real test can be done! Matt
  18. 2010 Camaro SS

    Two wideband gauges, wow its gotta look like a circus at night! How long till you have the tune sorted out and your out making "baseline" hits at the track??? Matt
  19. ITSASIX 1966 Mustang Turbo

    (Photobucket is a pain in the rear, if it isnt fixed by Monday I will be moving on I guess so mind the mess till then). VICTORRRYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!! Been chasing the stiff, on/off nature of the clutch since I first put the manual in the car over 10 years ago and NOTHING has made it go away. Got to talking with a fellow inliner on Vintage Mustangs forum and he was having the same issues with a stock Fairmont pressure plate which ruled out going that direction as a fix. He noticed that the Fairmont and Fox Mustangs had longer clutch forks than the 60's Mustangs so he extended his and it helped quite a bit. Taking that nugget of gold to the garage, I flipped the lower clutch rod to the other side of the Z bar arm and let it push into the hole that the return spring used to mount which is a little over an inch further down the fork than before. The clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there and I barely touched it! With success in sight, I pulled the under dash "helper" spring out WITHOUT killing myself or suffering a concussion and the pedal was smooth as butter all the way through the throw. Still requires more pressure than any newer car out there BUT the on/off feel was completely gone and you can smoothly engage and disengage it without fuss. I was looking around for the old fork so I could combine the new and old to make a more permanent solution but decided to check into a hunch before pulling out the cutting tools and welder. I did EVERYTHING I could to make sure the clutch rods and z bar were smooth, straight as can be and everything was as level as possible so as to try and take advantage of the correct geometry that the factory engineers came up with and worked for so many. What I DIDNT have a good view of was how level the lower clutch rod was to the ground or the stance of the car itself. I crawled under and saw that the rod was really low at the z bar mount and high at the clutch fork which is nowhere near level at all. Even with the clutch pedal pushed in completely it was still off. I pulled it apart and mocked up the lower rod in a hole further up the z bar mount that was previously used to hold that same return spring to the z bar and put the rod back in the stock location on the fork. Perfection. Pure perfection...or at least close enough for me to feel like a champ! Drilled the hole out to accept the new hardware, moved my recently welded bracing, rewelded, painted and mounted it all back up and it feels wonderful. I am close to having it all back together again enough to get it back on the road, then time will tell whether or not Ive got it licked but from what I can tell, the clutch still has plenty of movement to engage and full disengage properly and it feels like it should have all along. Sometimes it takes me 10+ years to sort something out...but when I do, it certainly makes my day!!! My left leg will be SO much less sore in Shades of the Past traffic from here on! Matt
  20. Random thought thread

    Time slips???? Matt
  21. Random thought thread

    Good luck Gammey and John, hope its a productive day!!! Matt
  22. ITSASIX 1966 Mustang Turbo

    Couple updates since last posting. Roller setup is in, even tossed a roller bearing on the engine side mount for the equalizer bar to make everything as smooth as can be. BIG improvement, its amazing BUT the damned pedal is still stiff as hell. I tried it without the under dash helper spring and it felt pretty much like I had done nothing at all to the setup, felt exactly the same as before. Put the spring back in and it made the pedal lighter before and after the pressure plate engages but its still stiff at that point. I can live with it till I sort out what to do bout the pressure plate (if anything). I replaced the coil, cap, rotor and plug wires after the 6 banger show due to the stalling issues on the way home but it didnt fix the issues I was having. I used the time to address the fuel line placement which I wasnt happy with to begin with. Moved it to the inside of the carb, ran it down the intake along the valve cover and to the steel line at the firewall using 6an braided hose and fittings. Ran it around the block and it ran pretty decent but not as well as the day of the show. Fiddled with the idle air mixture some which bugged me because it was nearly spot on before and I had to make some drastic changes to get it right again (red flag). Took it out for a quick spin and it stalled out again couple miles down the road. Fuel bowl was full to the top (making it appear empty thru the clear sight plugs) so I set about to clearing the flooded carb and trying to get the float level down enough to get it home. Took a while but I got it back, took it apart and found two issues right off the bat. 1) Pulled the needle and set and found a chunk of something or other in it. 2) The float was heavier than I remember last time I had the bowl apart. Pulled it out to look it over and found this little crack in the back: Couple days sitting on the bench waiting for replacement parts to come in and it has dried out and lightened up. New one is in, needle and seat cleaned up, new oring added along with new adjustment hardware and gaskets. Waiting on some metering block gaskets to show up and itll be back together. Im 100% sure that was my issue all along, trash in the needle and seat caused fuel to push up thru the vent tube flooding out the carb BUT Im gonna continue addressing the potential heat issues while Im at it. Wont hurt anything, especially with this ethanol fuel boiling at lower temps. I put a thermal sleeve on the fuel line where it runs near the heater hoses and intake, ive got a phenolic spacer on the way to go between the carb and the aluminum adapter on the intake and I finally got around to wrapping the downpipe where it runs under the intake. Turbo blanket for the exhaust housing is on the list as is having the header ceramic coated but Ill do those things later this year probably. Matt
  23. 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 Tuning with HP Tuners

    PLEASE PERMIT WEATHER!!!!!!!!!!! You gonna try to hit the track or tune it on the street? Either way, I look forward to seeing it ironed out and doing the best with what it has so you can get a sort of baseline out of it till your parts come in. Matt
  24. 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 Tuning with HP Tuners

    Well???? Did magic happen and was HP made??? Matt
  25. 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 Tuning with HP Tuners

    PLEASE let this happen! I want to see this thing go down the 1/8th under good power!!! Matt