66sprint6

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Everything posted by 66sprint6

  1. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Outside of the POR15 fumes I could do so at any time really. I need to stop today and get a longer piece of hose for the tank vent and then there is no reason that it shouldnt be 100%. Im gonna try to wrap this back seat up soon so I can put some miles on the new pump and make sure there arent any surprises before Sept rolls around. The super hot weather has me ok with it being apart for the moment tho I am sweating my ass off working on it. When things cool down some I hope to be driving it as often as I can! Matt
  2. ANOTHER UPDATE 2017: The Inline has been pulled and an Exploder 302 will take its place. The new direction starts on page 37 and carries on from there. As of 2017, The inline was pulled and sold locally to live on under the hood of another Mustang. The new setup consists of: Explorer 302 with P heads TFS Stage 1 Cam New springs and seals JBA mid length headers Megasquirt EFI done by Disney Thought Ide toss up the latest on the old 66. Ill dig up some older pics from the beginning for those who may not be familiar with the car, but heres the latest. UPDATED Summer 2015. Changes listed in red. 1966 Mustang Coupe "Sprint" package 200 ci inline six BONE stock pistons, rods and crank Now .040 bored stock block, custom RaceTech Pistons, stock rods and cranks 292 cam (oooold) Ed Curtis custom cam BIG log 250 head with valve springs for cam, milled for 2V carb direct mount Aussie 250-2V head and intake Holley 2300 500cfm carb by QuickFuel for blow thru Custom Header TE44 turbo Front mount intercooler 3" downpipe split to 2.5" pipes to Flowmaster 40s WorldClass T5 Custom steel driveshaft from Dave's 8.8 with 3.55 gears from Fox Grab a trac 4 lead, mid eye rear springs with 1" lowering blocks New stock front springs with 1.5 coils cut Shelby 1" UCA drop Unisteer Rack and Pinion 17x8 TT2 245 BFG Sports Im sure Im missing a bunch of stuff but you get the jist of it. The carb needs a TON of work and is about to be rebuilt, but she runs SUPER rich at the moment. I put it on Carma's dyno and initially put down an EARTH shattering 151 rwhp LOL. The A/F was off the chart rich (8:1ish) so they did a little tweaking, dropped the jets down to the lowest ones my Holley jet kit had which was only 2 sizes lower than what was already in it and gave it another go. This time the A/F was right around the 9:1 area and she picked up a TON, layin down 243 rwhp but the torque was in the low 300s. Ide love to find someone who can get this carb where it needs to be and see what she's capable of then!!! Oh, and all this was on 20psi with the old 2.5" crush bent downpipe and no mufflers, stock rear end with 2.73 gears. Now with the new exhaust and gears, 15psi feels stronger than 20 ever did!!! Back when I first put this setup together, on a different dyno (which may be where the difference in numbers truely lies) on the smaller stock turbo she put down more HP but less torque, would love to get this sucker tweaked and see what the new setup is worth. Took her to Gatlinburg this past weekend for Shade of the Past which was an adventure in itself. 4th year goin, but the old Mustang put up a fight. She has a bad vibration around 70mph and when you let off the gas it gets really bad which seems to point to a bad U-joint, and then after foolin around showin off a bit she ran like *** and almost made me think I wouldnt be gettin her home lol. She would idle fine, but if you tried to get rolling it wouldnt go, you had to floor the hell out of it and slip the clutch. Once you got movin she would run fine so long as I kept the vac around the 5in-0in area, and she ran awesome with a couple psi boost. I put some fresh gas in and she came back around on the way home but I suspect somethin else is up. ANYways, she at least looked and sounded pretty good! Here are a couple of the few shots I got. Crappy shot, but this was the first time these two cars have been together since highschool...FINALLY we were both able to get the old girls out for the weekend. In the morning after a bit of rain Notice anything similar between the two? Thats all I got, she did make it home and now its time to tear her apart and figure out whats up. New Ujoints are on the way along with a carb rebuild kit and a new balancer. After that I will see about gettin the carb tuned! Matt
  3. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Thanks! I don't get more than an hour or two to mess with it lately so it's gonna take a bit but it'll come along eventually! Matt
  4. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Sloooooooooooooow going. I keep going down the rabbit hole on this one. Since the seats, panels and crumbled worthless insulation is all out, might as well do this...and this...aaaand this. The list is getting longer and longer. The pans under the rear seats are in really good shape compared to the footwells! Couple small rust holes on the driver's side and quite a few holes here and there from Lord only knows what. The rest was surface rust/pitting. Ford appears to have put seam sealer on bare metal then painted over it so everywhere there was sealer...there was surface rust. Scraped, wire wheels and vacuumed it all up and got to work. I cut out the thin areas and holes and made some small patch panels. I welded up all the oddball holes including what appears to be drain holes maybe...tho they lead into the rear subrame rails and after some hit or miss research, some cars have em, others dont and not one single replacement panel I could find had them. They were used as vent window drains in fastbacks with tubes leading to them but nothing attached on the Coupe. I welded it up but might drill it back for good measure I dunno. Im gonna get back to work with a layer of PeelnStick along with the rear package tray, wheel wells and shock/rear end hump, put in some thin MLV and then put the seats back. New rear speakers and package tray cover will be added as well as a new radio...that might work well enough to half way listen to some music on the way to Gatlinburg! Slow going for sure but Im hopefully doing it right and wont have to touch it again anytime soon! Matt
  5. 65 Coupe to Fastback "Phoenix"

    Saw the updates on Facebook, looks really good! Matt
  6. Yep! Like I said to Tino, I WANT to see your tailights at the track. 1) because it means you actually made it to the track 2)Most importantly, it means you are getting your money's worth and 3) It will give me something to shoot for/a goal to achieve with the GT. Get it sorted, get it quick and get it to the track and lets see what its made of finally!!! Matt
  7. I admire you for trying your hand at sorting it out yourself...but I dont envy you either. Keep at it, you have SO many great resources available here locally to help you get it dialed in, but I would also completely understand if you FINALLY took it to someone to iron out quick so you can get to enjoying the car again. Either way, good luck! @goattdogg and I will be at the Hill next Tues if you wanna join us! His Ecoboost is getting some bolt-ons and a tune this weekend so were gonna see how it picks up and Im gonna see if my clutch and/or half shafts will allow me to bump up the launch RPM a tad and shoot for some 1.5x 60's. Get your stuff sorted out and come get some runs in! Matt
  8. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    For sure! You can hear it prime like normal then it pretty much gets drowned out by the exhaust...like it should! Im going to look into the latch anchors once I get to where the seats are ready to go back in, we can get together and make it happen on both cars then! Matt
  9. Random thought thread

    Im in! You know where I am most Tues (not tonight tho dammit ) It would make my day to lose to that truck. Would mean the sucker is finally moving out. I say the same about @JohnC SS but itll be a while before that goes down looks like . Maybe @gammey4 can get both yall whoopin ass and takin names soon!!! Matt
  10. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Oh yeah! Leak free, fired right up and the pump is muuuuuuch quieter. Still need to finish the vent tube, add a couple more legs to the trunk floor and then figure out what covering I want to use. While I was waiting on the fitting I moved on to the 3 point seat belts up front. The kits out there are fairly universal so you have to do some tweaking to decide where you want everything and then make it fit. I found where I wanted the lower retractors to sit and found the thickest steel I could to mount them to the floor. Made for a supreme pain under the car, but cutting a flat in the washer, bending it to fit as flush as I could then welding the bolt to it ended up working out really nice and made mounting alot easier only needing one wrench. I also welded the bolt that holds the retractor to the the mount for the same reason, ease of install more than anything. Painted it all black and bolted it in with some of that strip caulk around the bolt that goes thru the floor to help seal it off. I may put some seam sealant around it and hit it with some paint just to keep the rust away. The upper mount was more of a paint to plan than anything but once I found the general area that worked for both ergonomics and safety I was able to cut down part of the threaded plate that the swivel bolts into, drill my holes and then tack it in place to hold it when the bolt isnt in place. Ive researched this to death and the general consensus on most forums is that this portion needs to be higher than your shoulder or you will crush your spine or dislocate your shoulder in an accident. The only way to do so is to hang a "sash" from the roof and Im out on that garbage. On a Fastback you can do it and it wont look out of place at all but on a Coupe, both windows front and rear roll down and there is no pillar or door post to make the sash look right. It just dangles there and looks stupid AND the seatbelt rides on your neck unless you do something about it. When I had the seats re-done I had the Fox Convertible shoulder hangers added so that I could do the belts this way and it be ok. All Vert mustangs have the belts setup this way so Im good with it. The mount is in a thick part of the panel so its super secure and after mocking it up, everything flows well and FEELS right when sitting in the seat "buckled up". Will be MUCH better than the lap belts for sure. I failed to get any pictures after those, but the belts are now ready for final install but I figured while the rear seat and panels were out I would toss some sound deadening back there to replace the factory stuff that has long since crumbled and been vacuumed up. Very tedious stuff but Ill get it done eventually. Layer of PeelnStick followed by some MLV mat should do. Im also going to do the trunk divider and package tray while Im at it. Hopefully once the back seat goes back in, I wont have to remove it again any time soon and can move forward from there. Matt
  11. When your kid "gets it"

    HA! Luke's gonna think its funny when I tell him that every time I ever joined in a Bracket program, I would dial in a tad quicker than I was going that day and then TRY to break out. Usually a breakout means a new PB and since times are more important than going rounds in a program where outfoxing is better than outrunning the guy next to you. Usually by the time the program starts Im at by best and the car has had a moment to cool down so its glory pass time. I used to wait till after the program to get the glory pass but it gets late quick. Luckily lately Ive had some decent runs earlier in the evening and have been able to head home early with a decent slip in hand! Matt
  12. Funny of the day.

    His parents musta been on those same pills when they first spelled his name! Matt
  13. 2010 Camaro SS

    Yeah somethins gotta give. You will be draining those catch cans every fill up at this rate. Better than sucking it back into the intake but hopefully there is something you can do about it to slow it down some! Matt
  14. 2010 Camaro SS

    Crazy! Matt
  15. 2010 Camaro SS

    Yikes! Ide get another can ASAP if your seeing oil in the other hose as well. Keeping that garbage out of the intake will make things muuuuuch happier. Im still astonished at how much your catching, didnt realize they went thru that much oil till you brought it up! Matt
  16. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Since we did so much over the weekend to get ready for our 4th of July cookout, I took advantage of some free time earlier yesterday to work on the fuel system and try no to drown in my own sweat. Got the soft lines shortened up and connected the hardlines to and from the motor to the bulkheads. I then put a couple gallons gas in and tightened up any leaks I found. Only one remains on the supply line bulkhead and its nothing more than an annoying seep at most BUT it needs to be dry so I ordered another Earl's fitting and will replace the leaky fitting when it arrives. Otherwise the pump primes and all seems well! I also got the false floor started to protect the lines in the trunk on road trips. Simple and effective. Ive got a couple supports glued in to get the height where I want it and to make sure it clears the fuel lines. Im going to add a couple more supports, glue them in and then go from there. Most likely it will be covered with a mat of some sort so I probably wont worry about painting or covering it with anything. Lastly, I set about installing the MeterMatch VR box to control the fuel gauge. Early Mustang aftermarket fuel level senders are notorious for being absolute junk when it comes to accuracy. This little box allows you to set the Empty, 1/4, 3/4 and Full tank marks by adjusting the needle at each setting and saving it. Install was a breeze and setting it was even easier...tho a fairly long-winded process mainly because the needle is slow to respond to your input. Filled up with 2 gallons and set my Empty setting, then added another 2 gallons and set my 1/4 tank setting. Filled it up to 12 gallons and set my 3/4 tank setting and then another 4 gallons and set the Full level. So far, Im genuinely impressed by this thing. We will see how it holds up. They make other versions that can control the other gauges in the cluster as well...would be really awesome for someone who wants aftermarket gauge accuracy but the stock look. Matt
  17. 2010 Camaro SS

    Might be able to slide the skinny's in there maybe! Could build him a roof rack like some of the Drag Week guys do! Or build a Jeep/Bronco style tire rack. @Mike could make it happen and look awesome Im sure Matt
  18. I second this. Matt
  19. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Yeah Ive been talking to quite a few people who are running the Tanks Inc or similar tank in a classic and getting as much feedback as possible. I have a really good idea of what to do based on what a couple old drag racers are currently doing along and another member who put 40K miles on her 66 last couple years has copied it with good results. I might holler at you over the next couple evenings and pick your brain on one minor detail tho. Matt
  20. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Spent most of the weekend getting the house and yard ready for the 4th but I was able to sneak out for a couple minutes here and there to work on the trunk. Fuel lines are done, tightened up and the bulkheads are tight as well. I wired up the pump and the fuel level sender and was working on the vent line but might have changed my mind on how I want to work it based on the experience of a couple others. I also cut down one of the soft lines from the old pump setup and got it to fit between the after filter and the bulkhead for the feed line. I have to cut down the return hard line under the car a couple inches and then add the AN fitting and Ill be ready to leak test. I will then clean up and hit the top of the tank with one more coat of black and then move on to the false floor and getting the fuel gauge to read correct. Matt
  21. I don't know bout GM sensors but mines loud as hell at WOT and isn't false knocking. It WAS however when the header was BARELY touching a bracket. Rap on the pipes with a mallet and if it rattles find it and fix it. I would check things over really well before assuming it's just a loud exhaust, again unless it's a common issue with every LS car with an aftermarket exhaust. My only worry is what happens when you get a bad batch of e85 or 93 and your knock sensor sensitivity is dialed down and can't do their jobs properly when actually needed? Either way, I still wish you luck getting it right and seeing what it's worth when 100% Matt
  22. Flase knock doesn't go away till you find the source and correct it. Do what the other smarter folks suggest but I wouldn't mess with the sensitivity of the sensors until I exhausted every potential source, exhaust touching, motor and trans mounts, headers and flanges, radiator, cold air, oil catch can...anything loose that could rattle or bang around when driving. Slow down, focus on this one issue then move forward and you will get the tune ironed out and happy!!!! Good luck. Matt
  23. 2001 Ford Ranger

    Sweet, what's next??? Matt
  24. LS3 advice.

    That was mostly the point I was making to JohnC...no need to buy the controller with his tune. Matt
  25. I'm going to be a grandpa.....at 49.....

    Man, thats rough but exciting at the same time man, the annoyance will wear off...or be replaced by something else and you will be left with a wonderful blessing of a Grandkid and can move on making memories!!! Congrats...kinda LOL Matt