Disney

Registered
  • Content count

    2,151
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Disney

  1. And here is the software to run it all.... http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio
  2. Completed DIYAutotune.com Megasquirt DIYPNP. Then, I run a vacuum line from the intake manifold. On my car I just come off a port just behind the TB. Remove the stock ECU, install the new ECU in it's place. Just a 10mm bolt holds the connector on. Run the vacuum line into the car and connect to the DIYPNP. Then... Viola!!!! I hit the key, heard the pump prime and gave it a try. Literally fired up on the first try!!!!! I installed an AEM WB02 sensor in my car and wired it into the 02 wire on my stock harness. Then I configured the TunerStudio for the AEM WB. Instant success! Literally fired first try. Here's a short video of the Tuner Studio software doing it's Autotune. https://youtu.be/p5_2Ct2l62M Sorry.. I keep trying but can't get the video to imbed.
  3. With the board complete, we need to install the boot loader jumper. This allows us to install the firmware on the DIYPNP. They make it very easy to do by just following the instructions on screen. The main thing to do here is to MAKE SURE your serial port adapter is working correctly!! I chased my tail on this for a while the first one I built. All I had to do was restart the PC and the driver was working and everything went flawlessly from then on. I use a Dynex USB to Serial adapter. Works great! I am powering the DIYPNP with a 12V adapter from an external hard drive I had in the drawer. Works great! With the firmware installed I then load up the base tune that is on theDIYAutotune.comwebsite. All I did was to scale the injectors in Tuner Studio for my set up. I stuff all this in the super nice case that comes with it. Then tighten up your serial connectors and such....
  4. With the main board done, then we go to the extra board that will hold the Ford 60-pin connector. To utilize this as a PNP, we will need to make some jumper wires to connect from the edge of the main board to the proper holes on the 60-pin board. The nice part is that you have a couple places to connect the jumpers. There are holes numbered from 1-60 on the edge and more in the middle. They are connected on the board so you can use either hole to suit you. Depending on what you do (boost control or not) and when you first fire the board up, you will need to install some jumpers. In this case is the boot loader. Here it is almost complete. Only lack the wire from IGN to the TFI IGN port on the side of the 60-pin board.
  5. Now we start getting into some serious soldering. I am stupid so I solder every leg that comes through on these serial connectors. With most all the components on the board, you will need to get ready to install the processor. This will stand up above the board and uses these included stands. To make it up there, you will need to install the spacers for the electro-bits. Then we get to install the cool parts!!!
  6. Some of the components will need to be bolts to the board and heat sink paste (to aid in heat transfer) will need to be applied. This stuff is included with the kit! Just keep plugging away!! Be patient and careful. Some leads will need to be bent slightly to fit the board. This is normal. You will now start installing some of the "fun" parts. I for some reason enjoy it when I get to the MAP sensor and other hardware bits. I think it's because I know i'm almost done.
  7. Then I just bend the legs over behind the board to hold everything in place. Once I get to a point where I want to solder, I just add some heat, touch the solder and drop a spot. Very easy to do. My method is to push the tip into the leg and the ring around the leg to transfer the heat quickly. Then I just touch the solder to the joint and it flows right in. Once I get all of one type soldered in, I just go back and trim all the excess leads. I keep working through the manual and putting in all the components. I start small and build up. Meaning, the R's lay low, the Diodes are a little taller, the Capacitors are taller yet. I work vertical up off the board. You have to be mindful when installing the Diodes. They are in essence a one way check valve. The board has a bar going across the location that corresponds to the painted end of the Diode as shown below. You can see on the right side of where it says D1 there is a bar. That corresponds to the silver bar on the diode itself.
  8. Super awesome solid double adjustable upper control arms for Foxbody cars (or anything else with an UCA that's 9"-12") $125 Even moar awesomer lower control arms without spring perches because spring perches are *****. $115
  9. For Ashley....

    http://blipshift.com/products/up-the-creek?utm_source=blipshift+Updates&utm_campaign=923da20878-Up_the_Creek3_10_2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_0513fd2cb9-923da20878-345877041&mc_cid=923da20878&mc_eid=7eb13efddc
  10. I saw it first, GET IN LINE!

    http://cookeville.craigslist.org/wan/4848973485.html You guys can join me, but I get first dibs on placement.
  11. Turby Coupe Build

    Thanks. Really tough on days like today.
  12. Turby Coupe Build

    you buy it, i'll make it run.
  13. Turby Coupe Build

    I dont even care right now. Of course it's the driver side too that I can't pull over the suds because of the brake booster.
  14. Turby Coupe Build

    The hits just keep on coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got some UPR upper control arms so I could move the tail pipe just a little to gain more clearance under suspension compression. Put in new upp bushings and then went to put arms in. Arms won't go. Fight them for three freakin hours.... Finally measure the lower arms. They are too long. Like 1.5" too long. Luckily they are adjustable, just had to remove them. Screwed em in and then everything fit perfectly. Side effects? I had to re-do the tail pipe and not the driveshaft is too long. FML Then.. I connect all my hoses and pressure test the cooling system to check for possible leaks. I keep losing air slowly.... I find the leak coming from one head at a small notch. Turns out it's a known issue with the 862 casting and the LS9 head gasket. FML.
  15. I saw it first, GET IN LINE!

    Not me! That is a legit Clist ad.
  16. I saw it first, GET IN LINE!

    **** that. I want my face on the side of this POS.
  17. I saw it first, GET IN LINE!

    A Sponsor to help finish my street strip car(Byrdstown) safety tips prohibited items product recalls avoiding scams I know this is a long shot but here goes.... Looking for a sponsor to finish my 1988 Ford Mustang LX. I would prefer that this sponsor is a car enthusiast that knows how to work on cars although its not mandatory. I started working on this car, spared no expense and put only top notch parts on this car. I saved 12k on a deployment in 2011 and spent all of it on this caar and it is so close to being done that I can almost taste it. I ran out of money after that and now I can't afford to finish it. A sponsor would be responsible for buying the necessary parts, making improvement recommendations, and if they are a car buff, help me while I work on the car. The cost would be considerably low taking the fact that I have bought most of the parts to go on it. I would of course advertise for the company of their chosing while at the track. This is my DREAM car and am oh so close to finishing it. Of course, making a new friend is a bonus! Think about it and let me know... we can meet up, I will show you the car and tell you what all has been done to it and what is left and where I intend to go with it. Suggestions and recommendations are always welcome. Please find it in your heart to help make someone's dreams come true... You, as the sponsor will never actually hand me any money and I would never ask for any. The money would go straight to the parts.... Please, just give me a chance. do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers
  18. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a password protected forum. Enter Password
  19. BOOM! Page: 49. This will be helpful for the next guy that comes along.
  20. 48 pages for a HCI job. We're making Mustang history!
  21. No sealant. Gasket only. What brand is the elbow? I've used tons of them, never had to drill out the plenum holes. Not sure how you would anyways as they are blind holes...
  22. Turby Coupe Build

    Will be gopro vids. Got the fuel pump relocated tonight and back running. My new mount quieted it down by probably 80% from what it was. I'm happy with it now.
  23. 92 LSx Mustang Build

    yes. Two caps and either two nipples, or the LM7 piece that has a tube that crosses over and a single nipple out.