Global Moderator
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mike

  1. So, lets say you had $50k cash to spend on a car and mods. Wants: Room for 2 adults and a kid No major builds. Buy a relatively new car and mod it Want a car that is moderately quick at the dragstrip, road course and autocross. I'm over having the fastest car. Must be a V8 and must sound good. No turbo, no nitrous. It should take a couple weeks to mod it. Reliable, daily driver No aftermarket ecu's. What would you buy and how would you mod it? I'm day dreaming while my Buick sits under the knife again. I'm tired of "building" this car but when it run's there is always something on it that bugs me. I've spent 98% of my time working on it and 2% enjoying it. I'm not selling it right now, but it's been on my mind a lot lately. And daydreaming and planning is fun.
  2. Half the time they won’t upload here. Here’s a shot of the finished part.
  3. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a password protected forum. Enter Password
  4. Version 3 was closer, but a bit small inside the opening. https://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/attachments/133058-2009-gray-v-sedan-img_3585.jpg https://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/attachments/133060-2009-gray-v-sedan-img_3588.jpg I made a version 4 and it was even better, but ended up sticking out of the dash by .135". I don't have a picture of it installed. So, that led to version 5. To this point I had been printing with PLA plastic. It's the basic stuff that's easy to print, but it can get soft on a hot day inside a car. So I knew I was going to need something better. I printed the 5th part out of PTEG which apparently is similar to water bottle and can withstand 185F before it gets soft. This was my first print in PETG. It printed decent, but a little stringy. If it doesn't show up in pics, it's got some plastic hair all over that is easily removed. Overall I like the fit and it should be a good material. This one is going in the car as a working part. I just have to wire everything up this weekend. https://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/attachments/133066-2009-gray-v-sedan-img_3596.jpg https://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/attachments/133068-2009-gray-v-sedan-img_3597.jpg 5 times the charm? https://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/attachments/133070-2009-gray-v-sedan-img_3598.jpg
  5. 65-6800 1-4. I've never let it wide open shift to 5 or 6, that would be 140+ mph,
  6. The LSA has the supercharger after where that blue line hooks to it.
  7. I guess have to see how it’s hooked up in person. The blue line will have boost on it on your car.
  8. Mine is supercharged from the factory and the it goes: Air intake tube>both valve covers/crankcase/valley cover >supercharger snout. The suction side is pre supercharger, but post throttle body. I put a catch can in the valley cover to supercharger snout line. But lots of people don’t bother. It just keeps the intercooler brick cleaner.
  9. Blowby is not the biggest problem if there’s no check valve between the intake and crank case.
  10. I don’t think the mighty mouse can is doing anything hooked up like that. If there isn’t a check valve between the intake and crank case, it’s pushing boost into the crank case. That’s what I was going to put in the mm line.
  11. Another 6 hours to print version 2 last night. It was closer, but still needed some tweaks. The wideband needs more angle to clear a bracket behind it in the dash. And the whole thing needed to be a bit smaller to set up into the opening in the trim more. I'm used to haveing to make something big and work it down. 3d printing, I'm finding, is the opposite. Make it small and add to get it to size. So now I have version 3.
  12. I got a cheap 3d printer, so I'm tackling a project I've wanted to do for a long time. I normally wedge my wideband between the seat and console when I'm logging. I have a useless cubby hole in front of the shifter, so I figured I'd put it there. I measured it as best as I could. I figured I would need to print a test part and make more measurements off that. Modeled in autocad. Printed it. 6 hours later. Then test fit it. It needed some changes and I got the rest of the measurements I needed. Let's hope V2.0 works. The hole on the right is for a rocker switch to cut my intercooler pump off when I'm in the staging lanes at the track.
  13. No idea where it came from. I saw it in my box of junk when cleaning/organizing last year.
  14. If it physically blew the rear main out, it will need to be replaced. But it would be pouring oil out if it did that. Swing by my house any time after 3:30 and we can put that check valve in.
  15. You don't need to change the whole catch can, just do one of the things in my first post. Add a check valve or route the hose away from the intake.
  16. I would change the catch can routing first and see. If the crank case is seeing full boost right now, that could be the entire problem.
  17. I was thinking your catch can would work like it was, but maybe not. Mine has a check valve built in, apparently yours doesn't. Two options. 1. Re-route your catch can hose connected to the intake. Plug the nipple on the intake and run that hose over to the air filter like the valve cover hose is. 2. Leave that hose connected to the intake, but put a check valve in it. I think I have one that might work.
  18. 2010 Camaro SS

    I’m still using stock head bolts, they’ll be fine.
  19. 2010 Camaro SS

  20. 2010 Camaro SS

    You don't need the 2 bar OS. The factory OS is fine with 3 bar, that's how the V, ZL1 and ZR1 are run.
  21. 2010 Camaro SS

    It's not an rpm thing, just keep your foot out of it, drive like a grandma. Not that I know of. Mine works fine with no changes. It automatically comes on when you get to 9lbs of boost and turns off when it drops below 7.
  22. 2010 Camaro SS

    Wait until you pick up the car. You won't be able to drive it with the 3 bar map until the tune has been fixed up for it. You'll be fine driving it with the 1 bar if you stay out of boost.
  23. 2010 Camaro SS

    Around here, it's not likely you won't be able to get e85. But, on straight 93, you should have the timing low enough that you don't need meth. You have a nice big intercooler, so it should help it stay safe. But if the intake temps get high, you can pull timing in the tune. Meth has downsides too, if you tune for it, you have to run it. It's a fuel source, so without it you will be lean. Also, your new windshield washer tank is pretty small and doesn't have a low level light. That means you won't be able to hold much meth and you won't know when it's low. Spend the money you would spend on meth on getting it tuned. I've been able to go low 10's on 93 without meth. I've run it in temps from the 30's to the 90's and had no problems all because of the tune.
  24. 2010 Camaro SS

    After getting all the little things finished, I started in on the procharger. I tore half the car apart. Out with the stock balancer, in with the modified balancer and pulley. I pinned it per prochargers instructions. Then the blower goes on. And the intercooler. That's it for a long day today. Still have to put all the charge tubes on, mount the new washer fluid tank and re-assemble the front end.
  25. 2010 Camaro SS

    Progress so far. I replaced the speed sensors in the trans. Not many pictures of that because I was wearing as much atf as what landed in the drain pan. John got a new filter and he had a dipstick to be added. As you can see above I welded O2 bungs in all his mid pipes. I installed the non catted pipes today and ran the one O2 to the passenger bank. I have to grab a plug for the drivers side. Bonus fix. The rear section of the X-pipe was almost laying on a cross brace. I moved the pipe all around and it wasn't going to clear enough. So, like my CTSV, I removed the brace. It can't be doing much anyway. + And I got the dsx auxiliary fuel pump buttoned up. Which also resulted in a shower of 93 when I drilled into the tank.