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About Mike

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  • Birthday 01/06/1978

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  1. You learn to control the animal. It gets angry and out of control pretty quick.
  2. We moved in June and I hadn't touched the car in a few months. It needed maf tuning and I just couldn't get motivated to get it done until last weekend. I went to the hill last night. Typically I can cut 1.4x 60's with the occasional spin later at night once the dew settles in. Last night was awfull. I spun no matter what. I doubt they put down any glue. First pass was a test to get a datalog. I had tuned all of the maf curve up to 9000hz on the street and wanted to do the rest at the track. The car spun instantly off the line and I pedalled it. When I pedal, it usually upshifts to 2nd or 3rd. So it didn't recover well. 60' 1.907, 7.32@103.7 The tune was close, I had to pull 8% across the board in the maf curve above 9k hz. The car runs great with the new DDP intake and a dialed in maf curve (+- 1.5% error). Map was 207kpa in 2800' DA. I would typically see 201-203 in similar air last year. And g/cyl moved up enough to get me into my safe timing area and only had 20* total. I had some pulled for safety anyway, so I added 2* back in. Next pass, spun and pedaled again. 1.72 60', 6.89@108.4. A/F was ~1% rich and timing was 23*. In 2800' air I would typically run 107mph on a perfect pass (6.4-6.5 with 1.4x 60'). So with a bad pedaling pass running more mph is a good sign. Last pass 1.87, 7.15 @107. I left off idle and this was the worst spin of the night. Overall, the tune is pretty good now. I'll work on adding timing once the weather improves. I'm going to have to go to a better track to get the car to hook. I think there are some 6.2, maybe 6.1's in there doing some ricer math on my 160+ pass spreadsheet.
  3. Long time no update. Back in the spring when the lockdown started, I got bored, so I tore into my car. Because I can't leave a good thing alone. I ported the blower more. A lot more. https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_7950-jpg.144944/ https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_7963-jpg.144946/ https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_7933-jpg.144947/ https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_e7979-jpg.144948/ https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_8034-jpg.145208/ https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_8093-jpg.145211/ https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_8083-jpg.145212/ I also bought a lid spacer. https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_8094-jpg.145209/ I did more work in the lid. https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_8080-jpg.145213/ https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_e8087-jpg.145214/ I knew it would need more fuel, so I stepped up to ID1300 injectors. If you read back through, this is my 3rd set of injectors. I also finally replaced the fist part I put on the car. The airaid intake was swapped out for a DDP. https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/4277d40d-5ea3-4fef-accf-b33bea8d64c5-jpeg.145771/ https://www.ctsvowners.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.ctsvowners.com/attachments/img_8466-jpg.146373/
  4. 2010 Camaro SS

    Just buy a new sensor and leave the old one in the intercooler. The sensor should be in the middle of the longest straight section of tube and the tube needs to be large enough that the air speed doesn't max out the sensor. Distance from the throttle body doesn't matter.
  5. 2010 Camaro SS

    I replaced my air intake a couple months ago and I just got around to dialing it in last weekend. I've noticed my car shifts much more consistently when driving to and from work. I already knew that the trans relies heavily on maf data to shift properly, but didn't really think much of it because it always shift pretty good. I didn't think with all the stuff I've done that it could shift better, but now it does. I assume I did a better job dialing in the maf curve at low hz than previous tuners did. I know I spent a lot more time on it. I say this because remember where your maf element is in the intercooler? Unless DBR moved it, there's no way it's getting a consistent signal. If your car is tuned like mine, there's no way it would shift consistently with the maf in the side wall of the intercooler. Look at having that fixed as part of your next round of stuff.
  6. LS Engine parts

    Added pistons
  7. 2010 Camaro SS

    Good choice. You're also building a relationship and trust with him. It's likely Rick Crawford might do the tuning. He's probably the best 6L90 tuner and owns the fastest stock blower/6L90 CTSV.
  8. 2010 Camaro SS

    You are setting yourself up for another future frustration. Buying the most expensive rebuild available isn't going to make the trans bulletproof. A full throttle downshift or a bad tune will kill it too. Your car should live with a stock 6L90 despite what advertising by Circle D says. My 100% stock 77K mile trans in a 4600lb car running 140 in the 1/4 should be pretty good proof. I have 140+ passes on my car, 90% of them mid 10's and faster. I don't let me car make a full throttle downshift. I'll put you in contact with a few other locals making as much or more power still on a stock 6L90 if you think mine is magic. Justin White is the tuner being recommended by circle D. He's in the video above. He has the worst reputation among V owners. Lots of local guys have tried to use him for remote tuning and all end up with someone else. He's unreliable, he only seems to work late at night and into the early morning and he puts cars on the ragged edge. Between your schedule and his, your car won't run for a long time. Remove yours and send it back to Tim. Let him fix what's wrong and invest the rest of that $6k you'd have spent on the circle D build and have it tuned by James Short or whoever Tim recommends. This failure wasn't because the parts weren't good enough. Your trans has the same parts and builder as a few of the 8 second V's. Most all the fastest V's have the same parts yours has. It's the tune and how you treat it, not better parts..
  9. It's better at blowing header gaskets. You can get a much better selection of chrome valve covers from autozone. 1 word, Edelbrock. It doesn't have any of those unamerican metric bolts. SBC wins points at the car show all day every day. Dale Earnhardt didn't have no stupid LS in the old number 3.
  10. Random thought thread

    I’ve got an M8 helicoil kit, but only have 10mm long inserts left. You’ll probably want 16-20mm inserts.
  11. Random thought thread

    Was the pushrod touching the head anywhere?
  12. Random thought thread

    Made In China, lesser material, improper design, sub par QC, coronavirus etc. If I remember right these were higher ratio. You get a higher ratio by shortening the distance from the pushrod cup to the roller. That increases forces on the arm at the pushrod cup and changes the geometry. TSP doesn't have a team of GM engineers analyzing the rocker bodies and years of testing behind them like the stock arms. Even the non roller LS3 china made replacement rocker arms have issues breaking.
  13. Random thought thread

    Whatever black RTV I had laying around. For what it's worth. I run stock head bolts without issue.
  14. 2002 Mustang Issues

    The wire has to be broken somewhere or there's a bad pin in a connector or something between the clutch switch and the starter. I say tuck that new wire in nicely and move on. I think you've fixed the problem, you just never found the specific source of the problem. The anti theft stuff on a new edge car is in the ecu. The anti theft will allow the car to start, then immediately shut off. It has nothing to do with the starter
  15. Random thought thread

    The connector breaks inside the sensor. You'll have to unplug it to be sure. I've fixed 2 of these so far and have the connector bodies to do a couple more.