Mike

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About Mike

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  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a password protected forum. Enter Password
  2. Version 3 was closer, but a bit small inside the opening. I made a version 4 and it was even better, but ended up sticking out of the dash by .135". I don't have a picture of it installed. So, that led to version 5. To this point I had been printing with PLA plastic. It's the basic stuff that's easy to print, but it can get soft on a hot day inside a car. So I knew I was going to need something better. I printed the 5th part out of PTEG which apparently is similar to water bottle and can withstand 185F before it gets soft. This was my first print in PETG. It printed decent, but a little stringy. If it doesn't show up in pics, it's got some plastic hair all over that is easily removed. Overall I like the fit and it should be a good material. This one is going in the car as a working part. I just have to wire everything up this weekend. 5 times the charm?
  3. 65-6800 1-4. I've never let it wide open shift to 5 or 6, that would be 140+ mph,
  4. The LSA has the supercharger after where that blue line hooks to it.
  5. I guess have to see how it’s hooked up in person. The blue line will have boost on it on your car.
  6. Mine is supercharged from the factory and the it goes: Air intake tube>both valve covers/crankcase/valley cover >supercharger snout. The suction side is pre supercharger, but post throttle body. I put a catch can in the valley cover to supercharger snout line. But lots of people don’t bother. It just keeps the intercooler brick cleaner.
  7. Blowby is not the biggest problem if there’s no check valve between the intake and crank case.
  8. I don’t think the mighty mouse can is doing anything hooked up like that. If there isn’t a check valve between the intake and crank case, it’s pushing boost into the crank case. That’s what I was going to put in the mm line.
  9. Another 6 hours to print version 2 last night. It was closer, but still needed some tweaks. The wideband needs more angle to clear a bracket behind it in the dash. And the whole thing needed to be a bit smaller to set up into the opening in the trim more. I'm used to haveing to make something big and work it down. 3d printing, I'm finding, is the opposite. Make it small and add to get it to size. So now I have version 3.
  10. I got a cheap 3d printer, so I'm tackling a project I've wanted to do for a long time. I normally wedge my wideband between the seat and console when I'm logging. I have a useless cubby hole in front of the shifter, so I figured I'd put it there. I measured it as best as I could. I figured I would need to print a test part and make more measurements off that. Modeled in autocad. Printed it. 6 hours later. Then test fit it. It needed some changes and I got the rest of the measurements I needed. Let's hope V2.0 works. The hole on the right is for a rocker switch to cut my intercooler pump off when I'm in the staging lanes at the track.
  11. No idea where it came from. I saw it in my box of junk when cleaning/organizing last year.
  12. If it physically blew the rear main out, it will need to be replaced. But it would be pouring oil out if it did that. Swing by my house any time after 3:30 and we can put that check valve in.
  13. You don't need to change the whole catch can, just do one of the things in my first post. Add a check valve or route the hose away from the intake.
  14. I would change the catch can routing first and see. If the crank case is seeing full boost right now, that could be the entire problem.
  15. I was thinking your catch can would work like it was, but maybe not. Mine has a check valve built in, apparently yours doesn't. Two options. 1. Re-route your catch can hose connected to the intake. Plug the nipple on the intake and run that hose over to the air filter like the valve cover hose is. 2. Leave that hose connected to the intake, but put a check valve in it. I think I have one that might work.