NukeWorker

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About NukeWorker

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  1. Reba gets some makeup

    needs more turbo
  2. My POS S10

    I have too many projects and not enough space. The truck itself is clapped out. I started building this motor in 2013ish. in that time things have changed and I need the space and would rather have this motor in a classic muscle car. I just wanted to get it dialed in and tuned so it would be ready for a transplant. It runs poor before it is warm (like at 120F and gets worse/doesn't run at 170F) I am sure it would run strong on a carb and distributor but changing everything over is out of my budget right now (time and money wise) I would rather have my Fairlane out here to work on and I need to make room for it first. I am keeping the motor and XFI and maybe the T56 but the rest will get sold off.
  3. My POS S10

    Compression test was good. Pressure tested coolant system. Pumped it up to 20psi and an hour later it had dropped to 18psi. So seems to pretty much be holding ok. I think my issue is a combo of the crank trigger/coil/distributor and the hanky used main harness. Since the headers had to be pulled to compression check and new parts are not in the budget right now I think it is time to toss it in and part this project out.
  4. My POS S10

    Relocated the fuel pressure gauge to the cowl and seems to be holding pressure ok. still runs like crap once it warms up. I am starting to lean towards a head gasket or cracked head issue. These bowtie heads were known for cracking if they got too warm. one was cracked and I had to replace it already (when I had both rebuilt) I hope the other one is not the older crack prone casting still. Well I am pulling headers off tomorrow and doing a compression test on the motor to make sure nothing internal is wrong like a holed piston or something. Something seems off mechanically to me. If it looks internal it might be getting parted out. If not I might be tossing a new harness at it and see what thats gets me as I seem to have issues with the current one.
  5. My POS S10

    So I swapped on my mech gauge. pressure was holding "steady" at just under 40 psi static (my idle tune is **** so there is some vac fluctuation in it....line removed it was steady) I might dial it back a bit closer to 35psi. Truck didn't seem to act up at all last night though. I'll poke it along a little and see if I can narrow it down to something
  6. I did find out this weekend at the U-Pull that dodge chargers run 1ga welding lead from the trunk to passenger footbox for battery cable and it is pretty easy to remove.....best $3 buy in a long time.
  7. My POS S10

    so I have had a noisy pressure regulator (Aeromotive) I removed my gauge for a sending unit for the XFI (only to find the ground return missing from my used harness) I am going to try and swap the mech gauge back in on a length of braided line so I can get it up on the cowl. All I can come up with is that it is either full bypassing all the fuel it can or the pump is dropping out (it is a new pump)
  8. My POS S10

    runs fine within the startup decay window...issues seems to be more after running for a period...I think.
  9. My POS S10

    decay? I don't have a AE vs Time table
  10. My POS S10

    it is always in open loop right now as I have closed loop disabled. no trims as I am in open loop so fuel delivering should be the same. I took some logs and whenever it acts up it goes off the charts lean on the data log with any throttle input as if it is not delivering additional fuel (think clogged main jets AND no accel pump on a carb) my AE vs CTS is flat in this area. it seems if I shut it off and let it sit for a minute or two everything is then fine for a few minutes until it starts doing it again. All I can think of is the ignition actually dropping out but not sure how to check that with the crank trigger (my "tach" signal is off the crank trigger and not the coil/distributor) I have a cheapo suntachIII laying around I think I could hook up to the coil in the truck and see if my coil itself is dropping out but may not tell me much if I am dropping spark in the chamber. a 750 cfm carb is seeming so tempting to toss on right now. When this is not acting up it seems very strong and healthy (just way far out on tune still)
  11. My POS S10

    right now I am in open loop and it runs like crap whenever it gets warm it seems. I dumped a ton of fuel on it (doubled up what was in the tune as of earlier today....which it was running fine on before) it just flat wont take any throttle input once it gets warm period.....I had to idle up the street to get it home....but 60 seconds earlier it was WOT pulls out of the driveway and didn't even touch the tune any....WTF!
  12. My POS S10

    I can loop the block and it is fine. stop and idle for 2 mins and when I go to pull out it bucks and coughs like crazy. Time for a carb and HEI I think.
  13. My POS S10

    I am ready to burn this pos.... So I found my main power feeds off the factory distibution block were loose. I am guessing I spun the nuts down by hand while pulling wires and never went back to get them tight. Snugged up I am showing proper voltage now in software....that problem is solved This also cleaned up my datalog A/F signal a bit....I think. So everything seems fine until the motor hits 170-175F. will free great below that. once it hits it it will no longer build RPM no mater how fast you open the throttle and even struggles to idle. Timing locked at 25degrees and in open loop. 170F is where I come off my cold enrichment but at 153F it is only at <10% enrichment so I can't see that I am going THAT lean loosing a couple percent of fuel at idle/low rpm. the A/F at idle is showing pegged lean but it still burns your eyes with it running in a slightly closed up garage. I am debating anew wideband on it now but damn are they pricey.
  14. Long Term build RD400

    Have made a little progress on it. I have a name of a guy in town here that will have to be my replacement for Mike. I picked up some new braking components to adapt on this build. Rear: R6 caliper and rotor and caliper bracket. Caliper mount will need a bushing for the different axle sizes and a small bracket/tab off the swing arm for resisting the brake forces. The rotor will need a spacer (the ID is larger than the stock RD rotor and the offset will be different) Front: Single R6 "Blue Dot" caliper with a FZR600 320mm rotor. caliper will need a flat plate adapter and the rotor will need a spacer (same bolt pattern and spacers are actually available off the shelf in a couple thicknesses) All of this stemmed from the rear master cylinder being fubar'd and no longer serviced. I had the R6 caliper and master already from some rearsets I thought of adapting over but changed my mind on. I also have a tank mount that had a broken screw in it and after trying to drill it out and killing the threads I will steal the tab off my "donor" frame. I also still need to drill out the old fork lock so I can put in the one I have a key for. Overall things are moving along slow but nicely. The only big hang up right now is that some idiot (not me for once) layered up some THICK paint on a plastic side cover (has sags in it even) I have wet sanded the crap out of it with 200# and haven't even broke through it yet. Being it is ABS I can't use any good paint stripper on it and am a little scared to have someone media blast it off.
  15. My POS S10

    fresh cap and plugs and seems to be revving ok now. My shitty cramped enginebay requires pulling the drivers side accessory bracket loose to get the valve cover off....had it shimmed with a single washer behind each bolt. Guess I dropped one out and need to get it back in there so called it a night. This weekend I am going to pull the crank trigger off and check my pulley alignment with no spacers (should be ok then) Then measure the trigger wheel thickness and see about finding some AL stock that thick I can then drill and weld to the back of the brackets.....total pain but knew I had to do this months ago when I shimmed with a washer....getting it sorted and correct. Oh did I mention I have to pull the fans and maybe radiator out to get enough room to work in there?