NukeWorker

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About NukeWorker

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  1. Source for gmail colored wires?

    mostly it is the cost and the "universal" aspect of it. Between the Vintage Air and the FAST XFI, GPS speedo drive, Reverse lockout module I will have some none standard wiring going on. I was planning on relays for the headlights but looks like that is not needed with LED bulbs in the H4 housings. I had my options down between three choices. 1. $190 for a speedway 22 circuit kit. Comes with headlight and dimmer switches 2. $350 for a Painless 28 circuit kit (panel and wire only no switches) 3. $550 for a Painless pro 25 circuit bulkhead kit. Pretty complete but comes with a selection of connectors for different GM parts so there will be some leftovers. I am not sure I need as many "circuits" as these panels supply. since I am EFI I will need a relay to power my fuel pump and that is also handled from the XFI box. I am planning a trunkmount battery so the battery cables supplied in the Painless Pro kit are not needed. So I ended up with a speedway motors 22 circuit panel kit and will but adding in the connectors I need as I go along. I do have a couple inline Littelfuse 498 series holders on the way (take a midi fuse and just heatshrink inline to replace fusible links) For the $350 less then the pro kit I am sure I can supply the rest of the wiring bits needed (jamb switches, dash pigtails, etc) and end up with components I picked out.
  2. Source for gmail colored wires?

    Debating do the full chassis harness from scratch vs a universal panel kit (ie painless) I googled around but can't find anyone that just sells the labeled and gm coded wiring without a panel/plugs. I am seriously leaning towards doing a ISO 280 based panel
  3. The Bootlegger

    Been covered up with yard work and some trips the last couple of months. Putting together some gates for the backyard (steel frame with a sheet skin that is being water jetted out with a design) kinda like this: Also got distracted swapping a 4.10 8.5" rear into my single cab (along with larger SUV brakes) I THOUGHT it would just swap in and turns out the pinion angle is off some and I have a bit of a vibration to sort out still. I am crossing my fingers that removing the drop shackles will help it out. I have the pedal box all sorted out now (hydroboost mounted, pushrod length set, clutch master, etc) New door hinges arrive this week so I can get the door alignment going. I did get the rear brakes all assembled and are ready to start fabbing up some e-brake cables to work with the rear discs. Sold the snowflakes off so now I can pull the trigger on the 17's. I still have some bags of sackrete piled in front of the car keeping me from finishing up the firewall. Hoping to get a curb/footing placed this weekend.
  4. The Bootlegger

    Yup. Kept them from flopping around. Axle gets bolted in tonight.
  5. The Bootlegger

    where the bolt into the rail is pretty beefy. I might tie the two sides together with a brace....waiting to get the rear back in and see how much room there is.
  6. The Bootlegger

    It is the older Ride tech setup. There are 5 bolts and one u bolt into the frame rail on each side plus the floor mount. They have a newer setup that is more of a subframe that mounts in...for another $1500 in price. I paid $4100 for the front and rear with coilovers.
  7. The Bootlegger

    Upol Raptor liner in the trunk, wheel wells, and inner floors. Officially a Jackstand Racer now!!
  8. The Bootlegger

    Been a busy couple weeks. I got the car loaded up and out to sand blasting. Built up the rear axle after having it blasted. 1350 yoke, 30 spline axles, truetrac, 4.10 gears, blazer rear discs, 12mm wheel studs (my 1LE fronts are 12mm and IF I got to some CPP C5 fronts they are 12mm too) Opening up press in holes for the 12mm studs. Had bumpers blasted. Got it back from blasting and started in on the epoxy primer and some final patching up (after finding issues I wasn't expecting) also started shaving firewall and filling some unused openings. Bolted the 4 link under it for good. axles is getting a final coat of paint tomorrow night and will get bolted in Tuesday night if all goes well.
  9. The Bootlegger

    I am starting research on my wiring solutions for the car. I am looking to replace all the factory wiring (pretty crusty and not worth reworking it all anyways) I am adding power windows and locks. A vintage air setup Line Lock maybe nitrous (I might end up needing the hood clearance instead) EFI Remote Keyless entry Basic stereo (need my hands free and will just have a powered single sub in the trunk to fill out the sound, 6x9's in deck and prob just some tweeters up front) I plan on LED bulbs in everything but maybe headlights (I might just stick with some H4 conversion housings) Battery will be trunk mounted. I plan on a fused relay module in the trunk for the fuel pump and same for Sub power. I am not running a "1 wire" GM alternator and I am not a fan of the factory bulkhead connector (I have a couple 22 pin weather pack bulkheads laying around or maybe just a large grommet tucked up out of view) I would like to put headlights on a pair of relays. I am running a GM column. I will be running the factory GM gauges. So should I start with a universal kit (was looking at the 28 circuit painless kit at $470) or should I do the American Autowire Update harness? Both are a GM style bolt in panel it looks like. The AAW kit is more complete (not having to source some plug ins or make subharnesses) but locks me in to their design and routing to a point I think (already terminated) or I could just some bussman micro ATC panel with ISO relays and put it on my own mounting panel and just have a couple studs for aux power so things like the GPS drive for the gauge cluster, vintage air, etc can be "added" in as needed and easily changed. I figured I would need panels (one with relays and one with just fuses) SO what is a good starting point?
  10. The Bootlegger

    AMD. Needed love at lower jamb. Slice and weld to get gap even. Otherwise fit great.
  11. The Bootlegger

    Time for an update. Test fitting quarter Welded out subframe and deburred with some more epoxy....a little more gloss than I would like And there was a delivery So now have a full Ride tech 4 link coilover system for the car. Setting up axle brackets this coming weekend. So I can set up the gears and get the shell blasted to make this a roller.
  12. I am swapping a GM fuel pump module into my Toyota Wheeler. it has the standard supply/return/vent fittings on it. does anyone know if that vent on the pump module has a rollover valve built into it? I am trying to find good info other than routing 10' of tubing around the fuel tank for a vent/loop seal to keep fuel in the tank in a rollover.
  13. My 1982 Toyota "Daily"

    not sure how I missed updating this thread! looming got a bit melty and that was all. Fought a bad misfire all summer of 2016 (idled fine but would drop cylinders BAD over 1200rpm) Found that cap was shorting out to a braided fuel line jacket. rerouted and was tip top after that. Then picked up a cylinder dropping occasionally and it ended up being a cracked porcelain on #3 Had a thump in the seat and ended up being my driveshaft that was fabbed 1/2" too long and was bottoming out. Spat the bolts out of a ring gear in the rear axle destroying the e-locker carrier. Then broke a tooth on a front ring gear out playing around. Caught a stump at 10mph on a trail with the front axle: Swapped out the 4.7:1 gears in the rear transfer case for just stock 2.28 ratio gears. Rebuilt my steering column so I could add a new smaller ujoint to clear a larger double diaphragm booster I upgraded to. Swapped in my front left springs (all-Pro's) and some GM bumpstops that really smoothed the ride out. Added a long slip front driveline Wheeled the **** out of it.
  14. The Bootlegger

    So I have been needing to today this for awhile. I also need to find a new host other than Photobucket but I am too lazy... Anyways.... I took a new job out there and it paid for me to sell my house in TN and move the last of my stuff out here. So I had to take a week or so to fly back to TN, prep the house for selling, catch up business in town and pack up everything to head back out here for work. ran myself to death (including the 2700 miles in a uhaul solo in ~72 hours) So I finally have a new quarter but still needs installed, floors are all welded out and DSE subframes in, picked up some Hedman Hustler long tubes (1.75") and am fitting them up to a X-Pipe kit this weekend. Oh and I got the car on a rotisserie now. Looks like I might be logging some OT at work and it is turning too cold for bodywork I think so I am going to just focus on getting the fab work finished up and doing little things like locating all my electronics and getting the fuel system figured out. Pictures for the non readers:
  15. The Bootlegger

    I blasted and applied to bare metal. I also drove on salted roads in IL with it..... It is a GM stamped gearset so I would ASSUME it is not some goofy 2.41 carrier swap set.....but you never know Found out 12 bolt axles are a drop in with a 30 spline carrier (just order the length needed) so they are an off the self item.