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About NukeWorker

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  1. GM ABS pump/module questions

    So I have a GPS/VSS drive box for the cable drive speedo in the T/A. It outputs a 3-4K per mile signal for my late model cruise control module (basic late model GM cruise actuator - they are self contained and only require a speedo signal and the switch inputs) Now since I have the C5 brakes on the front with ABS tone rings in them I was wondering if there might be some options out there for a factory type ABS module/pump that does not require the factory ECU but only the tone ring/speedo inputs and power?
  2. The Bootlegger

    found the new quarter didn't match up to the taillight and spent a day pie cutting, jacking out and welding up. Tail panel had a scabby corner and started in on some panels. kinda where it is now... not sure if I mentioned but I tossed on some CPP C5 spindles/brakes on the front, bought some Yearone 17x9 snowflakes, mounted the XFI and Vintage Aire box, and am working on some intake manifold mods (welding up a boss to mount up a LS3? style MAP sensor) Still a ton of work left and still getting distracted with the Dyno-mite purchase I made.
  3. Airplane stuff

    Future in-laws want to sell the boss says we might be buying but I need to learn first.
  4. Airplane stuff

    I am just starting lessons.....why did you guys have to start this post?
  5. Crown Vic Roll Bar Build

    This needs plexi or expanded steel between the main hoop and harness bar.....and maybe a shotgun mount.
  6. The Bootlegger

    Ah best laid plans.... Takes a long time to wax a Cessna 172 I found out.
  7. The Bootlegger

    No worky....need to log in? Disney, I did want a modular underhood solution to the harness but needing a couple bulkheads and just trying to keep things clean will keep me in grommet space. FAST provides a huge grommet so you can pass connectors through the firewalls hole. Wideband will be routed down through the floor with the trans wiring (reverse lockout, vss, backup switch) and mounted behind the collector. I am using a grommet and a metripack connector for the front chassis wiring to make that all easier to deal with but routed through cowl/firewall with grommets. Rear wiring will likely be all one piece to fuse panel. Would split it but don't see it coming out very often and would have to split speaker wiring which I am not a fan of doing. Still need to source a couple wiring connectors or just buy new pins and reuse housings for wiper switch and wiper motor. I need switches and connectors for windows and locks (have the door component pigtails) Just pulling and bundling wire for now. Trying to find routing and to locate all the electronics.
  8. The Bootlegger

    Too many wires for a bulkhead on the XFI harness. I have a couple 22pin weatherpack bulkheads but think I would need 2 of them. I still have my old suspect xfi harness for a donor. Also turns out they use Honda ecu plugs (could junkyard plugs and pins then) I was planning to just grommet through the firewall near the passenger head to try and keep it clean. If I swap to an LS later on I might go to a GM ecu or maybe a Holley setup. I am eliminating the Fast design of a "main harness" you plug into and building it as a one piece harness. Just planning to route wires and zip tie up bundles for now. I will term it out once I am closer to trying to start it up (still need to plumb everything) I am switching to a LS3 style MAP so I need to pull the intake and weld up a boss for it to mount on. Also need to move the ECT over as it hits the ac compressor.....and notch the drivers valvecover for the compressor (or just toss on a centerbolt cover for now) I'll get some vintage aid pics this weekend as I fab up the new mounts for it. I started playing paint on some parts. Column is ready for some satin paint and reassembly (cruise switch ordered and will be here shortly) drivers door just needs some spot putty in a couple spots and blocked out again and then it gets topcoat and clear. Still needs the power lock solenoid and power window regulator installed. Mirrors got first coat last night and will get blocked and second coat and clear this weekend. Making list of additional wires I need. Speedway kit does not include wiper wiring, backup lights, power window or locks, speaker, nitrous, or line lock wires....they did give me wire for the vss though. Debating what to do about center console. Shifter is far forward. Might see if it has and melty parts and heat and bend it back a bit or weld a new handle to it (one piece B&M shifter) Glass hood needs cut for shaker. It has no inner structure (bolts to stock hinges but no latch provisions I think) and is light but I don't want to watch the hood vibrate all the time. Need to find something to 'glass over to add some support to it....maybe before I start cutting. Dash cap gets here today (just dashes wanted $1400 to recover so I think painted abs will be ok) Need to hit the u pull for a cruise control module so I can find a home for it (maybe under dash?) And collect some tube nuts for steering lines and hydraboost. Need a lockring/snap ring for the fuel tank so I can pressure test it for leaks before it goes under the car. (Need it out of the way) I have a busy weekend planned so look for updates.
  9. The Bootlegger

    I have been squeezing in more shop time lately More wiring supplies showing up today (term your own XFI harness kit) Mounted the vintage air box with supplied brackets. Was not happy with it way over to the right. Looked at some Detroit Speed build photos and they mount them in a small frame and then hang the ecu and other electronics off it....and locate the heater box about 8 inches towards the drivers side. Just trying to get everything mocked up and routed while I wait for the 100+ weather to break in a couple weeks so I can get back to bodywork.
  10. Stainless steel tube nuts for Saginaw lines?

    Yeah I think I will hit the you-pull with a tubing cutter and fill my pockets with a couple sets. Maybe I will just have to see about having some plated with nickel or have some turned. I guess for now I will just go steel. I am sure I will change my mind on routing after I make them anyways.
  11. Stainless steel tube nuts for Saginaw lines?

    Looks like they cater mostly to brake systems as far as fittings go.
  12. Stainless steel tube nuts for Saginaw lines?

    3/8" line. 16mmx1.5 and 18mmx1.5 tubes nuts for saginaw....the hole is not chamfered like a flared tube nut. I could always get some aluminum adapters to -6 and then use -6 nuts but was trying reduce the fittings. Also looking to polish it all up.
  13. Starting to plumb up the trans am. I have a mastercooler flaring kit and would like to make a SS set of headlines from the hydraboost to the steering gear and gear to a cooler. In the past I have just made plain steel lines and reused tube nuts. But I was hoping to find some SS ones instead of reused cad/zinc plated nuts. Is there any donor car/truck with SS tube nuts or can I hack a 16mm/18mm inverted flare nut to work? Or is it time to find someone with a lathe?
  14. Source for gmail colored wires?

    mostly it is the cost and the "universal" aspect of it. Between the Vintage Air and the FAST XFI, GPS speedo drive, Reverse lockout module I will have some none standard wiring going on. I was planning on relays for the headlights but looks like that is not needed with LED bulbs in the H4 housings. I had my options down between three choices. 1. $190 for a speedway 22 circuit kit. Comes with headlight and dimmer switches 2. $350 for a Painless 28 circuit kit (panel and wire only no switches) 3. $550 for a Painless pro 25 circuit bulkhead kit. Pretty complete but comes with a selection of connectors for different GM parts so there will be some leftovers. I am not sure I need as many "circuits" as these panels supply. since I am EFI I will need a relay to power my fuel pump and that is also handled from the XFI box. I am planning a trunkmount battery so the battery cables supplied in the Painless Pro kit are not needed. So I ended up with a speedway motors 22 circuit panel kit and will but adding in the connectors I need as I go along. I do have a couple inline Littelfuse 498 series holders on the way (take a midi fuse and just heatshrink inline to replace fusible links) For the $350 less then the pro kit I am sure I can supply the rest of the wiring bits needed (jamb switches, dash pigtails, etc) and end up with components I picked out.
  15. Source for gmail colored wires?

    Debating do the full chassis harness from scratch vs a universal panel kit (ie painless) I googled around but can't find anyone that just sells the labeled and gm coded wiring without a panel/plugs. I am seriously leaning towards doing a ISO 280 based panel