JohnC

I’m running about 76% Ethanol right now (at least 100 octane) and some good safe timing. It only does this after a WOT pull if it get in to peak boost a while. Picking up zero knock on my logs... It’s the nature of the beast when running a factory n/a 400hp (330 rwhp) rated engine at approximately 840hp crank (760 rwhp). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup, at mostly 14 psi and above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I've figured out my problem with over heating. I read a lot of forums and everybody that had a boosted LS car that had the issues of of overheating after WOT pull were lifting the heads when using stock head bolts and gaskets at 14 + lbs boost. The issues are the same no matter how cool or hot it is outside. Common issues are: Do a WOT pull and suddenly the car gets hot and over heats. Coolant level gets suddenly low. Evidence of blowing coolant out of the coolant overflow bottle. I had all those symptoms as well. So time for pulling heads and replacing the head bolts and gaskets with ARP head studs and LS9 head gaskets. Pics of blown out coolant from overflow bottle all in the wheel well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@gammey4 So take the cap off and let it get to operating temp to see if fluid is moving? Just want to make sure I don't create an air pocket in the system.

I’ll check that and report back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man, that sucks! I know trans whose all too well. Auto swap?

Not sure if my assumption is right, but I almost feel it has an air pocket in the system. Because when I check the upper and lower hose, a lot of times they feel like they have no fluid in them. I took the radiator cap off and the upper hose seems to fill up some and get hot to the touch.

A little fluid boiled out in the parking lot, but radiator is still up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The video... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I ran it hard.... Got to the work parking lot with the hood up and the car started getting hotter. It climbed real quick once it got to about 2/3 and hit 248F before I shut it off. Fans kept running a while. I got video I'll post in a few.

After the supposed overheat, I cleared all codes. Drove it 17 minutes today with some stop and idling. Temp read absolutely perfect the whole time. Pics of connector: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm going to log it again today because this isn't making sense to me. How is it not reading temp on the dash, but the log showed 198F and there is only one sensor? Looked a minute ago and the temp sensor is connected to the connector. I'll get a picture later....

The display said AC Off Due To Engine Overheat if I recall correctly.

I was going to do head studs, but was told stock was fine. So stock SS head bolts.....

SOB.... Was on my way home 5am when all the sudden my car goes in to AC Off mode because of supposed over heating. Temp gauge in the dash was cold. Digital readout was ---F. Turn the car off and tried to turn it back on to see of it goes away and it won't start. I then checked my coolant system... No leaks that I can see. The radiator was full. Top hose was hot. Radiator was cool to the touch. Low radiator hose was cool. T-stat housing was hot. Heater hose was hot. Heater worked. I always bring a OBD2 scanner and/or my HP Tuners and Laptop. So plugged in the HP Tuners OBD2 and got on HPT and cleared the code and then it fired right up. For maybe a half mile from the gas station to home was 198F via HP Tuners log. Checked radiator and lower radiator hose and they were still cool, yet everything else was hot. So do I have a bad t-stat or is it an air pocket in the cooling system? If it is a air pocket, am I lifting the head? I did get in to boost o the way home part throttle......