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  1. Today
  2. Random thought thread

    That will be a fun job!
  3. Random thought thread

    I’m running about 76% Ethanol right now (at least 100 octane) and some good safe timing. It only does this after a WOT pull if it get in to peak boost a while. Picking up zero knock on my logs... It’s the nature of the beast when running a factory n/a 400hp (330 rwhp) rated engine at approximately 840hp crank (760 rwhp). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Yesterday
  5. Random thought thread

    Of all those common leaks, how many folks were concerned with knock/detonation/preigniton/octane? I'd want to be sure that those were non issues before studding.
  6. Random thought thread

    Yup, at mostly 14 psi and above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Random thought thread

    Lifting head gaskets under boost is fairly common?
  8. LSx Nova Build

    I just took off the old drums on the back and put some gm metric calipers on it. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  9. Random thought thread

    I think I've figured out my problem with over heating. I read a lot of forums and everybody that had a boosted LS car that had the issues of of overheating after WOT pull were lifting the heads when using stock head bolts and gaskets at 14 + lbs boost. The issues are the same no matter how cool or hot it is outside. Common issues are: Do a WOT pull and suddenly the car gets hot and over heats. Coolant level gets suddenly low. Evidence of blowing coolant out of the coolant overflow bottle. I had all those symptoms as well. So time for pulling heads and replacing the head bolts and gaskets with ARP head studs and LS9 head gaskets. Pics of blown out coolant from overflow bottle all in the wheel well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. LSx Nova Build

    Ok. It shouldn't with disks, but I know a lot of old drum systems did. It sounds like you may have some air still, or just a bad MC. Might try taking the MC off and bench bleeding it and try again.
  11. LSx Nova Build

    Believe it's an older Corvette and I have no clue. More than likely not. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  12. Last week
  13. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Ive quickly looked over each bearing on the cluster, main and input shafts and they all APPEAR to be minty still and were pressed on new by yours truly when I redid it all. Im going to go over them with a fine toothed comb later on, not only to see if that was the cause for my noise but also to see what needs to be replaced and what can be reused. The races all looked and felt perfect in the case. Matt
  14. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    I repaired a large diff in a C50 dump truck. It's a larger version of a 9" Ford. The pinion was so loose that it rode on the outer portion of the ring gear teeth. Every tooth had a hairline crack at that end. I'd want to see damage similar to that and loose bearings to conclude that bearings caused it.
  15. LSx Nova Build

    What MC? Do you have a residual valve in line to the rear?
  16. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Sounds like a bearing went bad. As you drove it longer it went from small particles to larger and eventually got big enough to take out maybe another bearing, or the suspect bearing cage, then you had large enough debris to kill a gear.
  17. LSx Nova Build

    So I've bled (that doesnt look right?) My brakes twice now since putting the discs on the rear. We pumped them up to were I cant put the pedal to the floor and bleed them. It's been done 4 times each on the back and twice on the front. The pedal after some time will be soft as I can be. I can pump it up and it will be stiff again. Little scary driving and pumping brakes up on these back roads.... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  18. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Looking at the parts and thinking back to when it happened gives me some thoughts. The gear on the cluster is damaged every tooth but only just a bit in the front edge of the gear. Wonder if whatever caused that caused the initial whine. Then something bigger gave and caused the LOUD whine that got us to pull over. I actually shifted down into 4th at that point and rode it out to the exit. Everything sounded ok downshifting to slow at the end of the off ramp so I figured 5th was dead and since its isolated in the tail shaft, we will just back road it using 1-4 and be good. When starting from that stop sign is where the nasty noise started so that's likely when the inputs gear fragged. I had just put all new bearings all around so I dunno. Hell I even had the billet cluster support to help stiffen things up so I'm leaning towards random failure as well. I look forward to putting it all back together tho and seeing how it goes. Matt
  19. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    I've seen lots of broken teeth over the years, and the looks of yours are of a random tooth failure. But the whining for "hours" is the only thing that makes me begin to question if there could be a cause other than a weak tooth. I wonder about your bearings....if they were worn or something allowing the gears to ride farther apart than they should have been. If the bearings are not sloppy, I'd say a random tooth fractured and a part of it broke off. That caused a whine, and eventual failure of the rest of that tooth. And THAT lead to near instant carnage!
  20. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    Yeah I counted teeth when I pulled the rest of the trans apart and have the parts I need sorted out. Once a little extra cash frees up Ill be placing an order. Everything else cleaned up super nice and looks like the major fragments made it to the magnet at the bottom of the case before getting eaten up by the rest of the gears. My only wonder now is if it was a fluke, used parts that were junk or if something was off somewhere to cause the input and cluster to bind and become unhappy and if so, will it inevitably munch the new parts up as well? I mean, I was cruising in 5th super easy for HOURS and then it decided to go. Ide like to believe it was just a weak part and since I got it used, I have no idea how badly abused it was but you know how it is, I rebuilt it myself and checked everything best I could so its always on the back of my mind...what did I goof up? When new parts show Ill do like last time and triple check everything to make sure its in spec and see how it goes. If it happens again Ill have my answer LOL Matt
  21. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    If the input can turn the the cluster without slipping on those broken teeth, I'd shift into the desired gear and turn the input X times until the output makes 10 revolutions. If Disney is right, your input would make 29.5 turns.
  22. Random thought thread

    Yes and if you can see the fluid add more Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  23. Random thought thread

    @gammey4 So take the cap off and let it get to operating temp to see if fluid is moving? Just want to make sure I don't create an air pocket in the system.
  24. Random thought thread

    I’ll check that and report back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Random thought thread

    Do you see fluid moving with the cap off and it's up to temp? Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
  26. ITSnolongerASIX 1966 Mustang

    This car used to be a C4 car, not going back. Till my knees say otherwise I wanna shift this one on my own thanks LOL WOW your not kidding they are priced WAY WAY lower than what I was seeing before. I believe ive heard that Astro is good too. Now to research the correct gearing this Z trans had in it and see if they got it! Thanks. Matt
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